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Standalone front ball joints and bushings replacement?
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Thread: Standalone front ball joints and bushings replacement?

  1. #1
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    Standalone front ball joints and bushings replacement?

    Hello 500Xers! New to the forum with.a question regarding front suspension issues
    For a few weeks my 500X has developed very harsh, clunky sounds coming from underneath the floor in the central area. I knew the engine mounts were due to be changed so I got them inspected, and as I suspected, all 3 of them were blown, no surprise there. Had them changed at the dealer, cost a fortune (why, FIAT, why?) However, the noises did not completely go away
    I would say they subsided by about 50%. So, I had the bushings checked, this time at a workshop, not the FIAT dealer. They offered to replace the bushings for both control arms in the front. However, to my surprise, the noises got even louder after that! I have become suspicious of the work performed and the parts used, since there seems not to be the bushings and ball joints as standalone replacement parts in the Mopar catalog. Instead, the whole control arm assembly is listed. So, the question is, has anyone performed a bushings / ball joints replacement without changing the whole control arm? If affirmative, what was your experience? Should I buy the whole assembly? At FIAT prices? I love my car, and definitely love driving it with the GoPedal, auto flash and the new engine mounts... The noise is just driving me crazy, and might be unsafe...

  2. #2
    AWD enthusiast Lifetime Member 5port's Avatar
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    What year and mileage? Check your sway bar end links and sway bar bushings first before anything else. The X uses a composite sway bar end link to isolate road noise and they are a known culprit for generating a clunck sound when they go. Its a simple job you can do yourself.

    While your at it replace them with a metal link and they will last longer.
    Last edited by 5port; 09-14-2023 at 06:32 AM.
    2016 500X Easy, Go pedal, Autoflash, LED headlights and reverse, LED DRL, carbon fiber shift gate, ST T9 wheels, PIAA wipers, '17 motor mounts, AEM Dry Flow

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    Thanks 5port! It's a 2016, trekking trim. Has 68k mi on the odometer. I'll check those, and try to find the metal end link you mention. I'll keep you posted!

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    Hi! Just giving a follow-up on this.... I took the car to the workshop and jacked it up. So, the culprit is not any of the bushings or ball joints I initially suspected, but the exhaust pipe isolators! There are 4 of them that are composed of a rubber component attached to a metal bracket. Again, this assembly is to be replaced in its entirety There is no way to just replace the rubber part, which is what's broken... Or is there.... ?20230915_124252.jpg

  5. #5
    AWD enthusiast Lifetime Member 5port's Avatar
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    Glad you found it. I dont know of any other way. Hopefully not costly. Good find.

    Between $32 and $57 dollars Rock-Auto

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...t+bracket,5804
    Last edited by 5port; 09-15-2023 at 04:26 PM.
    2016 500X Easy, Go pedal, Autoflash, LED headlights and reverse, LED DRL, carbon fiber shift gate, ST T9 wheels, PIAA wipers, '17 motor mounts, AEM Dry Flow

  6. #6
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    Hello all! I just wanted to post a little DIY (or better, it's a how-I-do-it) pictorial guide, on how I restored or repaired the busted exhaust mount. I did not want to shell out almost 100 USD to Mopar (the only way I found I could get the part here was through the dealer, and there are no aftermarket or 3rd party parts readily available here). It might be useful for someone, who knows

    Parts I used: cheap polyurethane "universal" exhaust isolators (pack of 4, 11 USD in Amazon). One metallic clamp with screw. Some Permatex gasket maker I had lying around.


    1. Remove the mount + isolator assembly. Looks like this: 20230921_100534.jpg
    20230921_100609.jpg
    20230921_100552.jpg

    2. Detach the rubber part from the metal bracket. Actually, the rubber part has an inner metallic core that provides support and also serves as anchor to the metallic bracket. Just bend the two tabs on the bottom until it gets loose: 20230921_101132.jpg
    20230921_102220.jpg

    3. I measured the center of the hole to the side of the rubber isolator that was in contact to the metal bracket. Then, cut the generic polyurethane mount to the very same distance. I got 2 different "designs" out of a single PU mount. In the end, decided to go with the one with the cutouts, to provide for some movement and to avoid potentially transmitted vibration: 20230921_102414.jpg20230921_102639.jpg20230921_102800.jpg20230921_103147.jpg... part 2 in next post...

  7. #7
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    ... continued...

    4. Put some gasket maker (abundant!) on the bottom side of the PU mount, and secure it with a metal circular screw -type clamp running through both of the free openings on the metal bracket, where the rubber isolator was anchored. 20230921_135305.jpg
    20230921_135302.jpg

    4. Let the gasket maker cure. Part ready to install.20230921_135326.jpg



    I'll let you know how it performs... Hopefully, vibrations are not transmitted and the clunking stops.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to FIATtifosi_MX For This Useful Post:

    5port (Today)

  9. #8
    AWD enthusiast Lifetime Member 5port's Avatar
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    Very slick. Nice job!
    2016 500X Easy, Go pedal, Autoflash, LED headlights and reverse, LED DRL, carbon fiber shift gate, ST T9 wheels, PIAA wipers, '17 motor mounts, AEM Dry Flow

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