Fiat 500 Turbo Install - Front Bumper Really Need to be Removed?

[Boese Ritter]

I am watching the Ngen Fiat Turbo install: Do I *really* need to remove the front bumper/core support?

I feel like I could get my hands in there to remove that turbo? Not doing the manifold.

I did the BOV without any removal - it was super tight, but I got it done.

Sure, the coolant hose will have more stuff in it, since I wont have drained it during the process, but I could put some tape or a cork or something on it?

I'd obv rather not have to do all that removal, especially if the reasoning to do it is because "that is just how it's done."

Anyone tried replacing without bumper removal? Any solid reasons it wouldnt work?

Flames not needed. ;-)

Thanks!! :-D

[NGEN]

If you are just removing the turbo and not the manifold, you can do it without removing the radiator core support. However, you will need to loosen it so you can pull it back. Front bumper removal is a requirement but not hard to do. It’s the only way you have access to remove one of coolant lines from the turbo.

To be honest though, it’s not a lot of extra work to just do it like I show in the video and then you have full access to everything. Everything is right in front of you and easy to get to. Just my two cents.

[BigDaddySRT]

Yes you need to remove the front end to access that single T60 Torx Bolt for the coolant line to the Turbo.

Unless you want to bore a hole through the front core support to access it.

[Boese Ritter]

Thanks for the input and advice :-)

Great video, too

[Boese Ritter]

Tks bud !

[texanbrit]

It's is doable if you loosen the front clip, I did it recently. The engine installs are a bit variable in terms of their forward placement, so some cars have less space up front than others however on mine I could get to the the T60 upfront with a 1/2" socket wrench. The tough part is really the nuts under the exhaust housing. I split the turbo from the exhaust housing and that made it possible to reach all 4 nuts. The back ones aren't easy, but it's doable with some patience.

[BigDaddySRT]

When I recently installed my GT1446+ I simply unbolted the front clip and set it on a bunch of old blankets.

I didn't even disconnect the radiator/ coolant system.

[Boese Ritter]

Just wanted to put in an Update for Future People who may come across/search for this Thread:

Everything y'all/they said above was correct: There is just no way to get to that T60 Bolt without taking some layers off, then once you have the Core Support (the part with the radiator) hanging loose, you *could* get to those bolts, but at that point it was just easier to go ahead and take the whole thing off, as getting to those bolts that attach the Turbo to the Manifold are a reeeeal beach to crank on.

The Ngen Video is PERFECT. Just follow it step by step. The video also has a Tool list in the description. Brian, thanks TONs for that video. You don't know it, but we spent about 15 hours together this past weekend ;-)

Video Add-ons:
-For those with Stock Side-Mount Intercoolers: When taking off the Core Support, there are 2 hoses in the back, too.
-There is also a central hose coming out of the engine (no idea what it does honestly, but it goes down into a Y) that wasn't covered in the video - if you can't get the Core Support off, it is probably that hose or the 2 Intercooler hoses
-Issues I personally had: Make sure you have/find/get the right sized Washers when reinstalling the Oil Feed Banjo thingie on top of the Turbo - I bought some new washers, but they weren't snug enough around the banjo bolt and oil shot just....everywhere lol. Finally found appropriate size washers and everything is fine.
-Issue 2: If you put in the new Turbo and there is black, watery oil coming out of the exhaust pipes and you have an Oil Catch Can on your AOS line, remove the Catch Can and that should resolve the issue. (Anyone know of a catch can that won't ultimately cause pressure issues?)

Thanks again for the advice, all!

[sportfan]

I don't have a turbo car, I have a '13 Sport and I've never worked on a turbo car either. I do have a '62 Jaguar that has the Banjo style ends on some oil lines. If you have problems finding washers (gaskets) that fit the bolts that seal the lines, and if they are copper, they can be annealed and reused.

[Boese Ritter]

Appreciate that info Sportfan And the ones I ended up finding that worked, are copper, so that is def good info. tks!