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Smm panel dünyanın en ucuz sistemi

OpenFlash: How Do I Tune With My Tablet <-- Click Here To Find Out
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Thread: OpenFlash: How Do I Tune With My Tablet <-- Click Here To Find Out

  1. #1
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    OpenFlash: How Do I Tune With My Tablet <-- Click Here To Find Out

    I'm going to use this thread to track all of the information that I can gather and answer regarding OpenFlash Tuning your Fiat 500 Abarth. I *think* I will have the ability to update this thread as time goes on and if not, I'll reach out to the forum owner and see what we can do.

    Index Repository Here: Index Files
    You can try to find the XDF file for your calibration, however, if you have an index file that isn't in the repository please contact me and I'll upload it to share for the community.
    Download Tuner Pro RT: http://tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm

    Introduction To The Tables
    Turbo Pressure 1: This is the non-sport boost targets in mbar. Make sure to subtract ambient pressure to arrive at the target. Also note, that altitude will affect the resultant boost targets.
    Turbo Pressure 2: This is the sport mode boost targets in mbar.
    Limiter of impulsive turbo pressure: This is your boost cut table. You can use this table like a typical boost cut table with a fixed value; don't worry though your torque targets will limit total boost anyway.
    Linearization of impulsive turbo pressure: This table acts like WGDC, but the values are in "Frequency". If your turbo isn't hitting your targets you can try to increase the values here to see if that improves things. I use a max of 5.6Hz.
    Torque request during take off condition/standard condition #1/#2 and Torque Request: These are the computed values that the ECU will try to achieve. The calculations are not trivial and not obvious so without full access to the other torque tables, it is wise to leave these alone...for now.
    Optimal Engine Torque (#1/#2): This is actually an airflow table, we will crank this up to allow for maximum airflow.
    Ignition Advance (1/2/3/4/5): This is your timing Advance maps. In "good" conditions, these tables will be used to add timing on top of the base maps.
    Spark Advance base map (1,2,3,4): These are the ignition timing maps.
    Optimal spark base map (1,2): This table doesn't appear to be defined correctly. I've never touched it.
    Injection Base map (1,2): Same deal, never touched it, never needed to.
    Requested AFR: This is your base fuel map.
    Requested AFR Beta: Don't touch this, it isn't defined correctly.
    AFR for component protection (1,2): This are your "oh ****" fuel maps. If there is some knock, increased thermals, etc. the ECU will start to engage #1. If however...things get messy and pass the max thresholds, #2 will kick in and the fuelling will increase dramatically. You can see this behaviour on the stock tune where the ECU will command AFRs in the 10s around 4500RPM. The base fuel map only commands this AFR at 6000RPM and above.
    Rev Limiter: This is indeed your rev limiter. Just note though, that we can't resize indexes so we have to balance what the car wants at 6600RPM and what the car wants at your raised rev limiter.
    Speed limiter: This is indeed your speed limiter.


    Introduction To Tuning
    I'll create base maps for each calibration but for now I'll go through some of the "thinking" behind the base map tuning so you can take it and make it your own. I strongly suggest perfecting the ability for you to log spark knock reduction, Throttle Position %, Engine RPM and Engine Speed. There are other key items that you can use later, but for those 7 inputs you'll monitor engine combustion health as well as being able to import your logs into virtual dyno for comparison. My suggestion is to find a flat road and use markings to ensure that you are starting the log at the same place every time you do a 2nd gear or 3rd gear pull. I don't recommend 4th gear pulls unless you have a good lawyer and you are 100% certain any members of the public will not be affected. Keep your EYES on the road.

    Fuel Tables: Looking at the base fuel map (Requested AFR), we see that the 20kPa load cell column starts at 14.7 but works its way to 11.929. This column is a specially defined column used when calibration the TLC knock prediction adaptive. Long story short, FCA expects a certain performance of knock that will characterize the engine and its fuel within the context of certain parameters; mostly for the purpose of predicting partial throttle areas so leave this one column alone. Play with it at your own risk, if you must. Moving on we see a similar case for the high load columns and here is where we'll spend most of our work. I'll go ahead and select columns 23-140 and set all cells to 14.7 to target stoich. I'll set columns 180-240 to 12.5. I use NA power targets until boost can ramp in reliably so I'll start adding some more fuel progressively from 2700 onward. Peak torque lines up with peak cylinder pressure so we want to be running at our ideal/safe AFR during peak torque/peak boost. Finally, we need to balance the air and fuel carefully at the top because the cylinders don't like having too much fuel so don't be overzealous (like OEM) but don't push timing/boost near redline either. In this case, I used 11.7 as a target which is a common starting off point for forced induction vehicles. We'll want to blend our Power AFR targets with our stoich target cells so we'll divide the difference by 4 and blend by adding the 1/4 difference to the next two cells.

    That should leave us with this:
    http://doverlabs.ca/media/pictures/RequestedAFR.PNG

    We aren't done just yet though. In my experience, the power of the car is noticeably reduced when any of the fuel "correction" tables are leveraged in any manner. If your coolant temp is approaching 100C, IATs are approaching 50C+, Cat Temps are approaching 800C or if there is a pattern of knock that doesn't relate to tip-in or transients. The computer will start adding fuel to keep things "cool" and reduce the conditions that create knock. To my point, power is reduced any time any of these tables are used so let's make them the same so we can easily identify what is going on while we're out logging. Then we can consider higher octane fuels, reducing IATs or letting the car cool off/take some time off of tuning and power pulls. The two tables that are relevant here will be AFR for component protection (1 and 2) as well as Lambda for component protection 2. Let's select all cells from the Requested AFR table and copy the values. Next, we'll paste the cells into each of the three compensation tables. Right off the bat, I'll subtract 0.7 AFR points so that we're idling at 14.0 We'll notice now that we're at 11.0 at high RPM and high engine load, so let's pull another 0.3 points of fuel but only from cells 180-240. Excellent, when the car wants to cool things off we'll be running cooler than OEM in our street driving cells but we're not overfuelled either. When we hit high load, we'll start off at 11.5 so the car may be a bit sluggish here and as we pull, we'll max out at 10.78 which is max. richness for most FI targets. You can pull fuel if you find the car loaded up on fuel in typical driving like stop and go during the summer, but be cautious about reducing fuel above 2700RPM since that is when the turbo will begin to light up. We can now select all cells from our AFR for component protection 1/2 table and paste the values into AFR for component protection 2/2 and Lambda for component protection 2 tables.

    Here is what I have for my compensation tables:
    http://doverlabs.ca/media/pictures/FuelCompensation.PNG

    Turbo Tables: For turbo related tuning we have four tables: Turbo Pressure (1, 2), Limiter of impulsive turbo pressure and Linearization of impulsive turbo pressure. The Turbo pressure tables will define the boost pressure targets in mbar, note, you have to remove atmosphere pressure to reach your final pressure. 1 atm = 14.7 psi = 1013mbar. So let's say we want the stock peak pressure of 18psi: 18 psi = 1241 mbar, then add atmosphere 1013 mbar and we get = 2254 mbar. Now looking at the OEM table we see values in and around that 18psi range, but we will also need to consider the boost cut which we'll dive into some more. With closed loop boost control, you can real contour how the torque will be created with the engine, but we'll set things up so it's going to behave more around a mechanical boost setup. I'll select all cells in Turbo Pressure 2 (sport mode boost) and paste in our 2254mbar value. For non-sport, we can target 12psi so again, we convert 12 psi to mbar-> 827 mbar and we add in atmosphere of 1013 mbar for a total = 1840 mbar. We'll do the same as in Turbo Pressure 2 but for Turbo Pressure 1 (Non sport mode boost).

    Here is the target Boost Table:
    http://doverlabs.ca/media/pictures/TargetBoost.PNG

    This one is important, we'll want to ensure that we don't overshoot boost too much so we'll want to cap things off. You can play with the cut values to see how harsh/smooth the ECU reacts to overboosting but I'll start by placing the cut 1.5psi above our target so it is a decent middle ground. So we'll continue as above and fill in the table with 2357mbar for 19.5psi and paste that into Limiter of impulsive turbo pressure. Filling in the table with the same value will emulate a mechanical boost cut but you can spend some time experimenting with torque limits at lower throttle/load areas.

    Boost Cut Table:
    http://doverlabs.ca/media/pictures/BoostCut.PNG

    The final turbo related table is the Linearization of impulsive turbo pressure. Again, this is in Hz so we're dependent on hardware limitations on speed and precision. Just because we command 3.0Hz doesn't mean we'll get it from the hardware. One way to get reliable boost targets is to populate the cells from 77 to 100 with high values like 5.62 from 3000RPM and above.

    Something like this:
    http://doverlabs.ca/media/pictures/BoostDuty.PNG

    ProTips For Tuning Specific Tables
    TBD

    Base Map Repository Here: <TBD>
    Get Your Fresh Base Maps Here!
    Last edited by doverosx; 03-13-2022 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Added Fuel Tuning and Boost Tables


    2015 Fiat 500 Abarth
    Power:Tork 3" Intake, Forge BOV, ATM FMIC, Tork S1/S2/Meth Tune, Tork CC Catless DP, Boost Leak Fix, Turbosmart WGA, Ragazzon Twin Muffler Cat Back
    Handling: H&R 5mm spacers, El Gato Front Braces, Tork Collars, DoverLabs Coilovers, CPR lower brace
    Misc: Schrothe QuickFit Harness, OBDLink MX+, Race Tires: 205/45/16 Falken RT660, Street/Drag: 205/45/16 Conti ECS, HAWK HPS5.0
    DSP/D-class (local club classing)
    #notscare

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to doverosx For This Useful Post:

    Fiat500USA (02-11-2022)

  3. #2
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    I've updated the tuning guide with some table explanations, the link to the index repo and a link to download TunerPro RT.


    2015 Fiat 500 Abarth
    Power:Tork 3" Intake, Forge BOV, ATM FMIC, Tork S1/S2/Meth Tune, Tork CC Catless DP, Boost Leak Fix, Turbosmart WGA, Ragazzon Twin Muffler Cat Back
    Handling: H&R 5mm spacers, El Gato Front Braces, Tork Collars, DoverLabs Coilovers, CPR lower brace
    Misc: Schrothe QuickFit Harness, OBDLink MX+, Race Tires: 205/45/16 Falken RT660, Street/Drag: 205/45/16 Conti ECS, HAWK HPS5.0
    DSP/D-class (local club classing)
    #notscare

  4. #3
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    I've added fuel tuning explanations for the base and compensation tables.


    2015 Fiat 500 Abarth
    Power:Tork 3" Intake, Forge BOV, ATM FMIC, Tork S1/S2/Meth Tune, Tork CC Catless DP, Boost Leak Fix, Turbosmart WGA, Ragazzon Twin Muffler Cat Back
    Handling: H&R 5mm spacers, El Gato Front Braces, Tork Collars, DoverLabs Coilovers, CPR lower brace
    Misc: Schrothe QuickFit Harness, OBDLink MX+, Race Tires: 205/45/16 Falken RT660, Street/Drag: 205/45/16 Conti ECS, HAWK HPS5.0
    DSP/D-class (local club classing)
    #notscare

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    I was on a roll so I also wrote up about the boost tables. As far as the base map goes, that leaves the airflow tables left.


    2015 Fiat 500 Abarth
    Power:Tork 3" Intake, Forge BOV, ATM FMIC, Tork S1/S2/Meth Tune, Tork CC Catless DP, Boost Leak Fix, Turbosmart WGA, Ragazzon Twin Muffler Cat Back
    Handling: H&R 5mm spacers, El Gato Front Braces, Tork Collars, DoverLabs Coilovers, CPR lower brace
    Misc: Schrothe QuickFit Harness, OBDLink MX+, Race Tires: 205/45/16 Falken RT660, Street/Drag: 205/45/16 Conti ECS, HAWK HPS5.0
    DSP/D-class (local club classing)
    #notscare

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to doverosx For This Useful Post:

    SeattleAbarth (04-11-2022)

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    Good read. I just swapped from a RRM piggyback to openflash stage 2. And looking to be able to tune it a little
    Bit more. And see if I can add launch control? ��

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    Is there any interest or is it within forum rules to share actual tunes on here?

    I can tell you I've worked a lot on mine to get it to where it is and I wouldn't mind sharing the bin. Although you'd need calibration 0361000 to use my bin. Does TunerPro have an export function for just the table values?



    First things first: My car is configured as such: APM fender well intake, large FMIC, turbosmart wastegate actuator, I forget which one, but a louder blow off valve, not that it matters. Stock NGK plugs but re-gapped at .022 (a little further and eurocompulsion gaps them), catless downpipe and Eldor 4c coils. Turbo blnket and wrapped downpipe to try and keep the engine bay a little bit cooler.

    The stage 2 OFT tune by default pulls pretty much no harder than the stage 1 tune AND gives me a nasty breakup (more likely just flame quenching) at 4900rpm, but only after the car has been driven hard enough to get HOT. and only on the stage 2 tune, stock and stage 1 both fine. This gave me the indication that it is only misbehaving in this way when two things happen: the protection fuel maps are used, along with a more conservative spark advance leading the car to try to ignite an overly rich mixture at it's highest compression point (nearly TDC, about .8degrees advance according to the OFT).

    This also suggested that maybe the cruising or half throttle/loads/fuel mixtures were a bit too lean causing the engine to not be able to bleed off it's heat very effectively after a pull. So after a lot of data logging and messing around I finally came up with a base fuel map that runs stoich at low loads, increases to 12.5 (the NA target for WOT) around the points where I figure the engine is really chugging as hard as it can with boost not really on yet, and finally increasing to high load targets of around 11.7 at 3000RPM staying there through 5000RPM and then increasing again to 11.3 as it approaches 6600rpm.

    For the protection fuel maps I took the same road as dover but let the car run at around 13.8 for most all the low load (except over 6000RPM), starts getting into 12.5 a bit sooner and not toooo rich up top (11.5 at 3000 and high load tapering to 11 at 6600). As Doverosx suggested this lets the engine cool itself down a bit when you're not on the gas, instead of trying to accomplish the cooling effect when you're currently hard on the throttle. This along with a more aggressive spark advance (more below) completely eliminated the 4900RPM stumble I was having. And also the engine is very notably cooler when I pull into the driveway. (I can actually touch and keep my finger on an ignition coil, before they were ending up just absolutely crazy hot).

    Obligatory "your mileage may very" I think these cars vary wildly in how the ecu/injectors actually end up dumping fuel. You might NEED the super rich targets if your car is undershooting them. Mine overshoots by a bit. My main point is that you should look at and fix your AFR targets with any canned tune!




    Now about power:

    Idk if it's just the specific mods on my car or what, but boost was slow to build just past 3000rpm (for this car, it was still a quick spool in the grand scheme of turbo cars) and didn't really ever get past 20-21ish psi according to the OFT's readout.

    So I increased the high load boost targets in the midrange a bit (I think to around 2850-2900 millibar or somewhere between 26-27PSI for a lot of it I'm typing this at work and can't check exact figures right now). And gave it a bit more wiggle room on the boost cut table as well. This got it spooling quicker and holding 23-24 PSI of boost in my car. Again, you would need to log the boost you're currently making, play around with it and make sure you are safe.

    Second, the OFT's timing and spark advance charts were made on 91 octane and are in all likelihood extremely conservative so Shiv doesn't blow up anyone's engine... Around here (Kentucky) we sell 93 as our premium and you can tune a little more aggressively when it's your own car. For me, I run about 2-3 degrees more base timing than the stock OFT stage 2 file does. I tried 4-5 degree increases but got a little pinging, backed it down to 3-4 and got absolutely none, but I backed it down to 2-3 just to be absolutely safe. Then I put an extra 1 degree or so across the "good condition" advance maps. This gets me back to 3-4 degrees advanced over stock OFT stage 2 timings, as long as the ecu decides it's safe to do so. I would be fairly confident in even on 91 most people could advance a couple degrees further than what the OFT stage 2 runs.

    This means instead of getting down to nearly TDC in protection modes before I still have 2-3 degrees of advance which again: helps solve the quenching issue I was having. I don't think the car enters protection very often though with the revised base fuel map though, and if it does, it will exit quicker given the richer than stoich low load AFRs that I added to the charts allow the car to cool itself down a good deal better while between pulls/ WOT applications.

    This all worked out to get my car into power a lot quicker and just pulling a TON harder all the way through to redline. Shiv may have gotten 180WHP and 220 WTQ out of the car he had in his shop. But that tune just didn't add up for my car. I'd say it got me the same 165HP numbers that stage 1 did, but with the addition of the nastiness around 4900RPM. Not knocking it: all cars vary and I think mine is modded enough to make it vary significantly from whatever Shiv had on the dyno.

    I've yet to dyno it, but I know I can pull some friends cars now that I was pretty embarrassingly smoked by when I was running the OFT Stage 2 tune as is. (And even more embarrassed when it would choke at 4900rpm...) I of course would like to think I'm hitting about 190WHP but I won't have a chance to verify till this fall.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatRyGuy View Post
    Is there any interest or is it within forum rules to share actual tunes on here?

    I can tell you I've worked a lot on mine to get it to where it is and I wouldn't mind sharing the bin. Although you'd need calibration 0361000 to use my bin. Does TunerPro have an export function for just the table values?



    First things first: My car is configured as such: APM fender well intake, large FMIC, turbosmart wastegate actuator, I forget which one, but a louder blow off valve, not that it matters. Stock NGK plugs but re-gapped at .022 (a little further and eurocompulsion gaps them), catless downpipe and Eldor 4c coils. Turbo blnket and wrapped downpipe to try and keep the engine bay a little bit cooler.

    The stage 2 OFT tune by default pulls pretty much no harder than the stage 1 tune AND gives me a nasty breakup (more likely just flame quenching) at 4900rpm, but only after the car has been driven hard enough to get HOT. and only on the stage 2 tune, stock and stage 1 both fine. This gave me the indication that it is only misbehaving in this way when two things happen: the protection fuel maps are used, along with a more conservative spark advance leading the car to try to ignite an overly rich mixture at it's highest compression point (nearly TDC, about .8degrees advance according to the OFT).

    This also suggested that maybe the cruising or half throttle/loads/fuel mixtures were a bit too lean causing the engine to not be able to bleed off it's heat very effectively after a pull. So after a lot of data logging and messing around I finally came up with a base fuel map that runs stoich at low loads, increases to 12.5 (the NA target for WOT) around the points where I figure the engine is really chugging as hard as it can with boost not really on yet, and finally increasing to high load targets of around 11.7 at 3000RPM staying there through 5000RPM and then increasing again to 11.3 as it approaches 6600rpm.

    For the protection fuel maps I took the same road as dover but let the car run at around 13.8 for most all the low load (except over 6000RPM), starts getting into 12.5 a bit sooner and not toooo rich up top (11.5 at 3000 and high load tapering to 11 at 6600). As Doverosx suggested this lets the engine cool itself down a bit when you're not on the gas, instead of trying to accomplish the cooling effect when you're currently hard on the throttle. This along with a more aggressive spark advance (more below) completely eliminated the 4900RPM stumble I was having. And also the engine is very notably cooler when I pull into the driveway. (I can actually touch and keep my finger on an ignition coil, before they were ending up just absolutely crazy hot).

    Obligatory "your mileage may very" I think these cars vary wildly in how the ecu/injectors actually end up dumping fuel. You might NEED the super rich targets if your car is undershooting them. Mine overshoots by a bit. My main point is that you should look at and fix your AFR targets with any canned tune!




    Now about power:

    Idk if it's just the specific mods on my car or what, but boost was slow to build just past 3000rpm (for this car, it was still a quick spool in the grand scheme of turbo cars) and didn't really ever get past 20-21ish psi according to the OFT's readout.

    So I increased the high load boost targets in the midrange a bit (I think to around 2850-2900 millibar or somewhere between 26-27PSI for a lot of it I'm typing this at work and can't check exact figures right now). And gave it a bit more wiggle room on the boost cut table as well. This got it spooling quicker and holding 23-24 PSI of boost in my car. Again, you would need to log the boost you're currently making, play around with it and make sure you are safe.

    Second, the OFT's timing and spark advance charts were made on 91 octane and are in all likelihood extremely conservative so Shiv doesn't blow up anyone's engine... Around here (Kentucky) we sell 93 as our premium and you can tune a little more aggressively when it's your own car. For me, I run about 2-3 degrees more base timing than the stock OFT stage 2 file does. I tried 4-5 degree increases but got a little pinging, backed it down to 3-4 and got absolutely none, but I backed it down to 2-3 just to be absolutely safe. Then I put an extra 1 degree or so across the "good condition" advance maps. This gets me back to 3-4 degrees advanced over stock OFT stage 2 timings, as long as the ecu decides it's safe to do so. I would be fairly confident in even on 91 most people could advance a couple degrees further than what the OFT stage 2 runs.

    This means instead of getting down to nearly TDC in protection modes before I still have 2-3 degrees of advance which again: helps solve the quenching issue I was having. I don't think the car enters protection very often though with the revised base fuel map though, and if it does, it will exit quicker given the richer than stoich low load AFRs that I added to the charts allow the car to cool itself down a good deal better while between pulls/ WOT applications.

    This all worked out to get my car into power a lot quicker and just pulling a TON harder all the way through to redline. Shiv may have gotten 180WHP and 220 WTQ out of the car he had in his shop. But that tune just didn't add up for my car. I'd say it got me the same 165HP numbers that stage 1 did, but with the addition of the nastiness around 4900RPM. Not knocking it: all cars vary and I think mine is modded enough to make it vary significantly from whatever Shiv had on the dyno.

    I've yet to dyno it, but I know I can pull some friends cars now that I was pretty embarrassingly smoked by when I was running the OFT Stage 2 tune as is. (And even more embarrassed when it would choke at 4900rpm...) I of course would like to think I'm hitting about 190WHP but I won't have a chance to verify till this fall.
    Right on dude! Send your bin to brodey@doverlabs.ca and I'll upload your bin so everyone can download it. What I've noticed so far with my friends' car is (I finally got to really start tuning it) and I hit knock in the 4750-5500 range so I backed off timing there (but my plan is actually to lower boost request and throw in more timing); hopefully that tips the balance towards more power and less EGT/back pressure from the little turbo.

    I'm actually surprised how much timing I have added in the lower revs. For her 91 tune, I peaked 24 psi but more or less hold 22-23psi until 4500RPM. When you do dyno it, definitely post up. Actually, I think your tune deserves it's own thread.


    2015 Fiat 500 Abarth
    Power:Tork 3" Intake, Forge BOV, ATM FMIC, Tork S1/S2/Meth Tune, Tork CC Catless DP, Boost Leak Fix, Turbosmart WGA, Ragazzon Twin Muffler Cat Back
    Handling: H&R 5mm spacers, El Gato Front Braces, Tork Collars, DoverLabs Coilovers, CPR lower brace
    Misc: Schrothe QuickFit Harness, OBDLink MX+, Race Tires: 205/45/16 Falken RT660, Street/Drag: 205/45/16 Conti ECS, HAWK HPS5.0
    DSP/D-class (local club classing)
    #notscare

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeattleAbarth View Post
    Good read. I just swapped from a RRM piggyback to openflash stage 2. And looking to be able to tune it a little
    Bit more. And see if I can add launch control? ��
    Unfortunately with the indexes we have, we can't implement launch control. I might be able to pull off some hex editing to get it going though.


    2015 Fiat 500 Abarth
    Power:Tork 3" Intake, Forge BOV, ATM FMIC, Tork S1/S2/Meth Tune, Tork CC Catless DP, Boost Leak Fix, Turbosmart WGA, Ragazzon Twin Muffler Cat Back
    Handling: H&R 5mm spacers, El Gato Front Braces, Tork Collars, DoverLabs Coilovers, CPR lower brace
    Misc: Schrothe QuickFit Harness, OBDLink MX+, Race Tires: 205/45/16 Falken RT660, Street/Drag: 205/45/16 Conti ECS, HAWK HPS5.0
    DSP/D-class (local club classing)
    #notscare

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