HOW TO FIX A "DEAD" 500E that won't start &/or charge

[ElectricTireShredder]

For how to fix a "dead" 500e that won't start &/or charge, click this link:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1a_d4rbMPtzEHIqhecx19zecI-xo1l9B6JUmmJ_JeFP0/edit?usp=sharing

After a fellow user's "dead" car was at a DEALERSHIP for a MONTH, he informed them about one of these procedures, & THAT is what got the car running! So I figured I should make a public google doc with everything I've learned so far.

[ElectricTireShredder]

Apparently some people don't like links, so I've copied & pasted the current version below, but note that I won't be able to edit it for corrections, changes, or additions as we learn more over time, so please check the link in my post above:

HOW TO FIX A “DEAD” 500e THAT WON’T START &/OR CHARGE
(2013-2019 models)

CONTENTS

1. Charge Failure ONLY
2. Contactor “Clunk”
A) 12V Starter Battery
B) Disable Glitch
3. Humidity Sensor
4. Fault Clear
5. 12V Reboot
6. Main Battery Reboot

1:

If it starts but won’t charge:

• Deactivate the charge timer in the car’s menu. It can default itself to “active”.
• Plug into the OEM unit*. It can reset some charge errors.
• Reboot the charger via reset button, unplug/replug, or circuit-breaker off/on.
• Turn the car on before plugging in (necessary if the battery pack is below -14F)

*
L1 Front Small Landscape.jpg

2:

If you hear a "clunk" or "thunk" when you open the left door skip to #3.

If not, continue here:

No clunk means the 12V starter battery isn’t connecting the High Voltage battery contactors, as needed to charge or start the car. IF you wait several seconds after opening the door, to hear the disconnect clunk, THEN there should also be a clunk:

• When you turn the key on, & another clunk several seconds after you turn it off.
• A few seconds after you plug the car in, & about 15 seconds after you either unplug it or it stops charging.

A)

If the starter battery terminals are clean & tight, with 11.6V or more, skip to “B”.

If not, continue here:

Just like any gas car, a low 12V starter battery is the most common cause of failure, including inactive contactors. Even when it's technically "dead" by gas car standards, a 500e will often start but sometimes with errors, & the 12V can fully die without warning after normal use for only 2 years, so after that it’s good to have a little $50 portable jumpstarter:



Even after a parts store does a load test with good results, the voltage can still be too low, so you have to check it. Grab each end of the black plastic motor cover & yank it straight up like you’re lifting a laundry basket full of wet clothes. It’s almost unbreakable, but completely useless, so I leave mine in my garage closet. After the 12V is 2 years old, check it periodically, to avoid failure. If you’re stranded, it sometimes works if you leave the door latched only 1 click (to avoid “wake-up” signal), turn off the headlights, wipers, & dome lights, wait about 15 minutes & try again.

.50 Amazon multimeter Small.jpg

Above, Amazon "multitester", starting at $10. Below, my $22 BatteryTender.com gauge:

BatteryTender Small.jpg


B)

Enable the contactors with the free AlfaOBD "demo" Android app from Google Play Store.

The contactor disable glitch seems to be from aftermarket EVSEs* or a low 12V, & is VERY rare compared to “A” above.

If you only have an iPhone/iPad, try a laptop/tablet, or ask your friends if they have an old Android, or get one for $15 on Amazon. No service needed, just download the app on WiFi. A $17 eBay ELM327 KONNWEI KW902 will connect it to the car.

*Avoidable by using the OEM EVSE, which fully recharges the average drive from a standard wall outlet overnight, or recharges from ZERO% with an easy-DIY $13 adapter in a 240V outlet like an aftermarket L2 uses.







3:

If the humidity sensor is left unplugged, skip to #4

If not, continue here:

It’s just at the right of the rearview mirror & causes many false alarms, including ABS, RBS, ESC, HSA, PRND, SRS (airbag) etc. Put your middle fingers in each opening near the top & pull perpendicular from the glass:

Sensor Small.jpg

With a tiny screwdriver or round toothpick parallel to the glass, stick it straight into the black socket to wedge it open & remove the purple plug:

ROUND Toothpick Small.jpg

Even though you LEAVE it unplugged, the cover fits, with its left side hooked on & then the right side snapped upward perpendicular to the glass. Hook/snap points circled:

20210314_171529 Small.jpg


4:

"Clear Faults" with OBD or multiple key cycles. With OBD it sometimes requires clearing 2 or more separate control units, 2 or more times each, before it stays clear:



If you don't have OBD, codes will often clear with the key off for 3 minutes. Repeat if needed, up to 10 times, but usually ONCE works for me, & the most I've ever needed is 3 times, off for 1.5min, but other users report needing 3 min, 5-10 times.


5:

Reboot via 12V disconnect after the key is off for 3-min.

Disconnecting it for 30 seconds worked for me, but when that failed for someone else, & so did 30 minutes, 30 hours worked.

Ideally, disconnect the NEGATIVE, since it’s more robust, & it won’t short out the 10mm wrench (or even pliers, in a pinch) on any surrounding metal.
Retighten it until you can’t twist it off of the post by hand.


6:

Reboot via HV disconnect: (orange plug under rear seat bottom)
A) With the car in "ready" mode if possible, open the hood & left door & don't open or close anything else* for the entire process, to avoid "wake up" signal.
B) Remove the key, wait 3+ minutes for "sleep" mode.
C) Disconnect HV, disconnect 12V 30+ seconds, connect HV, connect 12V.

IF that doesn't work, there are at least 3 other sequences to try, but for ANY of them make SURE to first ALWAYS do steps A & B above, & check car function after each one before you continue:

C2) Disconnect HV 30+ seconds & reconnect. Disconnect 12V 30+ seconds & reconnect.
C3) Disconnect 12V, disconnect HV 30+ seconds & reconnect, connect 12V.
C4) Disconnect HV, disconnect 12V 30+ seconds & reconnect, reconnect HV.

* I thought that only the left door woke it up, since it's the only one that awakens the HV systems (contactor clunk), HOWEVER the other door and even the hatch can awaken the 12V systems (instrument screen lights up).

[ElectricTireShredder]

UPDATE:

2: B) $50 AlfaOBD app required.

My notes show that a month or 2 ago someone reported the demo version enabled the contactors, but just a day or 2 ago on the other forum @EERock reported the demo version definitely didn't work, but the $50 version did, & today on the other forum @JayBond also reported the demo version wouldn't work.

[ElectricTireShredder]

UPDATE:

1:​ If it starts but won’t charge:

• Check the J1772 socket AND plug for damage & bent or corroded connectors.