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Thread: Fiat 500 oil change

  1. #1
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    Fiat 500 oil change

    I changed the oil today. Wasn't too bad:

    1) Lift car front end with jacks and jack stands or wheel ramps.
    2) Remove 6 screws so that engine under guard can be removed.
    3) Remove engine top cover.
    4) Remove 3 screws holding air intake plenum, loosen hose clamp from large hose that routes air from plenum to intake. Wiggle 2 other hoses loose, and take water overflow hose out of clamp at rear of intake plenum. Now, intake plenum can be taken out of the way.
    5) Using 27mm socket, loosen oil filter cartridge. I was able to put my ratchet down close to the socket to back the socket out (3/8" ratchet, 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter to connect to socket). Put paper towel around base of cartridge to catch any oil that might dribble out (only a few drops dribbled down the side). It's important to take the oil filter cartridge off first before draining the oil pan. If not, when you remove the cartridge later, the oil in the cartridge area will drain down into the oil pan.
    6) Remove oil pan plug to drain the oil pan.
    7) Clean out oil filter cartridge, then install new filter element (comes with new o-ring).
    8) Reinstall oil plug. Fill with 4 quarts 5W-30.
    9) Reinstall air intake plenum, engine cover, and lower engine guard.

    I'll post pictures when I get a chance.

    Alvon

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Alvon Elrod For This Useful Post:

    Abarthlyness (08-31-2011), alittle1 (05-01-2012), Fiat500USA (08-29-2011)

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    Senior Member cogtooth's Avatar
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    Re: Service experience

    Here's how some observers would tell me how to do it: take the twist ties off the engine and remove the engine, then unsnap the top half of the engine off and take an eyedropper and add more oil, place the engine back inside making sure it is not upside down, use new twist tie to secure engine.

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    Re: Service experience

    I'm still curious as to what the proper jack point locations are.

  6. #4

    Re: Service experience

    "Alvon Elrod"]
    I changed the oil today. Wasn't too bad:

    1) Lift car front end with jacks and jack stands or wheel ramps.
    2) Remove 6 screws so that engine under guard can be removed.
    3) Remove engine top cover.
    4) Remove 3 screws holding air intake plenum, loosen hose clamp from large hose that routes air from plenum to intake. Wiggle 2 other hoses loose, and take water overflow hose out of clamp at rear of intake plenum. Now, intake plenum can be taken out of the way.
    5) Using 27mm socket, loosen oil filter cartridge. I was able to put my ratchet down close to the socket to back the socket out (3/8" ratchet, 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter to connect to socket). Put paper towel around base of cartridge to catch any oil that might dribble out (only a few drops dribbled down the side). It's important to take the oil filter cartridge off first before draining the oil pan. If not, when you remove the cartridge later, the oil in the cartridge area will drain down into the oil pan.
    6) Remove oil pan plug to drain the oil pan.
    7) Clean out oil filter cartridge, then install new filter element (comes with new o-ring).
    8) Reinstall oil plug. Fill with 4 quarts 5W-30.
    9) Reinstall air intake plenum, engine cover, and lower engine guard.

    I'll post pictures when I get a chance.

    Alvon

    Nice write up on that. I forgot all about the air box coming off... Duh

    I hate crawling under the car, so I will extract it from the top. I'm just waiting on the filters.

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    Re: Service experience

    author="Thad">
    I'm still curious as to what the proper jack point locations are.
    You don't mean the ones on the sides marked with arrows on the rocker panels?

  8. #6
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    Re: Service experience

    Here are some pictures of the oil change, as promised.

    Top of the engine, with engine cover and air filter box removed, showing oil filter location:


    Under the car, on jack stands, engine cover removed, showing location where I used a floor jack to lift (before removing lower engine cover).


    The oil pan, draining:


    A couple pictures of the air filter box (top and bottom), showing where 3 fasteners are.




    The bottom engine guard, showing the 6 faster locations.


    Oil Filter manifold with canister removed, and canister with the old filter and the replacement filter.



  9. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Alvon Elrod For This Useful Post:

    Fix it again Tony (02-27-2012), Robert Nixon (08-19-2012)

  10. #7
    Senior Member ciddyguy's Avatar
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    Re: Service experience

    author="Alvon Elrod"]
    Here are some pictures of the oil change, as promised.


    The bottom engine guard, showing the 6 faster locations.


    Oil Filter manifold with canister removed, and canister with the old filter and the replacement filter.
    Nicely done Alvon,

    Looks like it's not too difficult, once you get the guards/shields off and the cross member looks like it is easily wiped off once the oil has stopped dripping onto it, nice.

    Thanks for sharing the photos of your oil change.

  11. #8
    Vendor Thad's Avatar
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    Re: Service experience

    Yea. Wouldn't wat to lift it up by the plastic rockers! I'll take a peek at Alvon's pics here....

  12. #9
    Vendor Thad's Avatar
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    Re: Service experience

    Very Good Alvon. How hard was it to get the canister out of there? Also, why did you do it yourself since your maintenance is free for the first several years?

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    Re: Service experience

    RoadRace Motorsports
    The cannister came out fairly easy. Once the air filter housing is out of the way, there is fairly good access to the engine. To torque back up to the recommended 25 NM (18 ft-lbs), I used extensions up through the opening around the headlight, and put my torque wrench outside of the engine bay (sorry that I didn't get a picture of that). To loosen it, though, I just put my ratchet down close to the 27mm socket, that fits conveniently on the top of the cannister.

    I chose to change the oil myself for several reasons:
    1) Dealer stresses that it isn't necessary or a good idea until the 8000 mile interval (or 6 months)
    2) Dealer says that they cover maintenance only at the recommended intervals. I could have them change it for free at the earlier interval, but that would 'use up' one of my 6 freebies.
    3) I wanted to send the oil to a lab to have it analyzed, just for the heck of it. If I had 'Chrysler' change it, they wouldn't be as careful to save the oil as I did. I poured it into a clean gallon jug for now, and will pour off the top and send a portion of the stuff that settles out to a lab for evaluation. I probably won't do that until June, but I'll keep you posted when you posted when I do.
    4) I wanted to become a little more familiar with the nuts and bolts of this car.

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