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Thread: Timing belt replacement on a 2012 Sport w/pics

  1. #1
    Senior Member atikovi's Avatar
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    Timing belt replacement on a 2012 Sport w/pics

    Replacing the belt at 105,000 miles as I'm selling the car and think it will add value compared to others out there approaching the 10 year mark and still having the original belt. Especially with potential buyers finding out how much they would have to spend at a shop to do the job. Bought the belt at the dealer and its made by Gates in England. I'll decide later after examining the tensioner and water pump condition if I will replace those too. Other than basic hand tools, the only specialty tool I bought was this timing set on Amazon for $36: https://www.amazon.com/DPL-TOOLS-Eng...a-848059164383

    Anyways, here goes, and the order of procedures isn't always set in stone so you could have done work up top before raising the car for example.

    Put the car on jack stands, then remove the belly pan under the engine and then the right wheel.

    01.jpg02.jpg03.jpg

    Remove the air box assembly, disconnect the hoses from the PCV oil separator and then remove the separator.

    04.jpg05.jpg06.jpg

    Remove the hose to the vacuum pump and unbolt the bracket around the vacuum pump so you can swing it up out of the way. May have to remove an electrical connector clipped to it. Unbolt the vacuum pump and pull it off the engine. Expect some oil to come out.

    07.jpg08.jpg09.jpg
    Last edited by atikovi; 04-02-2021 at 05:28 PM.

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    Senior Member atikovi's Avatar
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    Down at the right wheel opening, remove that vertical bracket. Then remove screws holding the splash shield. You will have to remove some screws at the front of the fender liner and pull that back some to access one of the shield's screws. Pull out the shield as shown.

    10.jpg11.jpg12.jpg13.jpg

    Get the serpentine belt off the crank pulley with a 15mm socket on the tensioner pulley bolt going clockwise, then shove the belt out of the way.

    14.jpg16.jpg

    Remove the 3 outer bolts from the crank pulley and remove the outer section.

    17.jpg18.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by atikovi; 04-02-2021 at 01:51 PM.

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    Senior Member atikovi's Avatar
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    Attach the cam locking plate where the vacuum pump used to be. The groove will be vertical but the tool only fits one way because of a pin on the cam. i.e. no worries of getting it 180 degrees off.

    19.jpg

    More coming.
    Last edited by atikovi; 04-02-2021 at 01:51 PM.

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    Get the coolant reservoir out of the way by removing one bolt holding it down, then pulling forward out of the two mounting holes. You can leave the hoses attached and move it over as shown after remove a clip that attaches the big hose to the washer bottle.

    20.jpg

    Unclip the A/C line.

    21.jpg

    Place a jack under the oil pan and take the weight off the right motor mount.

    22.jpg

    Take out the motor mount by removing 3 bolts from the frame and 3 bolts from the engine.

    23.jpg

    After you get that out is when this gets real. You're faced with that bracket on the engine, mounted with 6 bolts, and very close to the frame.

    24.jpg

    Little room to swing a wrench let alone get a socket on the bolt.

    More after dinner.

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    Senior Member atikovi's Avatar
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    Before trying to get that bracket off I tried to remove the timing belt covers. The upper one has 2 bolts. This one in the back and one in the front down lower.

    25.jpg

    The covers have a chase for wiring so I then pulled out the harness, but still couldn't get the upper cover off although it was pretty loose.

    26.jpg

    Then I attacked the bracket. Takes a 13mm socket. Jacked up the engine a good inch, then two. The 3 upper and rear lower bolts were fairly easy to loosen, but you can't actually remove them. Front lower bolt a little harder to access but able to get with a 1/4" drive socket wrench with the handle pointing towards front and pulling up hard. Not much leverage. The center lower bolt took a combination of previous methods and eventually came out. Once it was loose the upper cover came out.

    27.jpg

    To get the bracket out I had to jack up the engine a little more.

    28.jpg

    Afterwards you're rewarded with this view. I've already removed the lower cover that was attached with one bolt.

    29.jpg

    After a well deserved break, you can check the timing by attaching the alignment tool to the crank sprocket with 3 bolts. If the timing is correct, the top opening of the tool will align with the lower cover bolt hole so you can lock it down. Mine was just a smidge off, maybe 1/8 inch, so a nudge of the crank sprocket got it dead on so a bolt went right in.

    30.jpg

    Continued tomorrow.

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    Couldn't wait to at least get the belt off to check the tensioner and water pump before dark and search replacement options tonight if need be. The original belt is Chrysler labeled and made in Argentina. Here is the tensioner before loosening.

    31.jpg

    And after.

    32.jpg


    Both the tensioner and water pump feel smooth and tight. Will have to check aftermarket pricing and brand options before deciding on replacing. Not sure I want to spend another $175 for those two OEM if I don't have to.
    Last edited by atikovi; 04-02-2021 at 08:02 PM.

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    Thanx. I'll be doing this shortly on my newly acquired '13. I've got $50 that says this thread will be referenced when I do it.

    Thank you. Please finish it up and don't just leave us hanging.

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    Dealer didn't have a water pump in stock so it will be a few days before continuing.

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    I’m pushing my luck now as I just passed the 152,000 change interval.

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    Very interested in this as I have two: my wife's Pop with 116,000 and my Sport that just passed 100,000. Probably wont push either past 130,000 before doing this.

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