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Yeah, I'd say they break easily. My neighbor got in my car and the passenger side made an ominous groan. Like you, I don't use the rests but the dog sometimes...
 

Are they difficult to swap out? I don’t see where the connection is done - does the padding have to be removed from the seats? Any side airbags to...
 

Texanbrit: You're exactly right!
I pulled it apart today and the overflow hose is sticky and moist.
Everything else looked to be buttoned...
 

FIAT 500 1.4L SOHC (Naturally Aspirated. Non Turbo)
Ignition Coil
MOPAR 68070492AD

FIAT 500 ABARTH 1.4L SOHC (Turbo)
Ignition...
 

I believe the Alfa coil packs only work on a Turbo, and Abarth vehicles....
 

The connection at that side of the radiator is pretty solid, so if it's not the radiator itself then I imagine the coolant is running down the lower coolant...
 

Cheers from CO!

Hello all, I recently acquired '13 Abarth and decided to join the forum.
I owned in the 90's a Fiat 126p and now the Abarth.
Thanks for all...
 

There is no light for low coolant, so you need to keep an eye on it. A light means an overheat, and that is something you do not want to do.
...
 

F/S - 500X Roof Rails and Crossbars $ 175.00 for all

Purchased for my 2020 Trekking; did not realize will not work with sunroof.

Rails are new in original box. Part #68281916AA.
Crossbars...
 

Rocco Reviews...

Rock Auto has lots of quality/reasonably priced ignition coil choices for the 2014 N/A Engine, use GOOGLE to find a 5% off...
 

As we prepare for the 2024 summer season, prepare for some great news about our meets and drives !
 

Registration is now open, if you'd planning to display your vehicle sign up soon as space is limited, avoid disappointment! 😮
 

Fiat Club America events are always welcoming and friendly, no animosity or preferential treatment for anyone!

Nice Family environment for...
 

First off, what brands of bearings are you using? Even a couple of the name brands have been noted to fail (front and rear) on the Fiat. Are you sourcing...
 

Ah, I've missed you Ted. Yeah, $145 is MSRP (dealer price). Around $16 to replace each unit. That's why people don't go to the dealer until they've checked...
 

OK, so you guys say Turbo coils won't work on the non-turbo. We know Alfa coils work on the turbo car... but they also work on the N/A models?
...
 

Go with Alfa coil pacs, expensive but smooth acceleration without hesitation = worth the price

https://500madness.com/start-shopping/pe...
 

Prices are all over the place for TPMS sensors and the quality varies. I wouldn't kick yourself too hard because you got the best ones out there, so youll...

Has anyone Seafoamed (or similar) their 1.4T?

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  • abarthshep
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2021
    • 19

    #16
    thanks guys. i've been successfully turned off. i guess i'll go get my ten bucks back

    Comment

    • abarthshep
      Junior Member
      • Feb 2021
      • 19

      #17
      Originally posted by HalfPint
      I wouldn't put seafoam in anything beyond maybe an old flathead mower engine. Why are people so fascinated by these mechanic-in-a-can snake oils?

      honestly dude, i'm just doing everything that I can in order to lengthen the longevity of this used engine that i'm sure had been sitting for a while. When googling ways to do that, seafoam came up and it's only ten bucks.

      Comment

      • HalfPint
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2019
        • 906

        #18
        Originally posted by Fiat500USA
        I've seen guys run Seafoam through their intake via a vacuum hose and it produces what looks like the worlds biggest clouds of dense, white smoke. There was a guy around here that did it in the Walmart parking lot and the fire department was called because someone thought the store was burning down. I can't imagine that would be good for the converter. I've also had folks tell me their plugs got fouled out by doing that. Seems more suitable for a car like my old 70 Duster.

        As for putting it the oil, I'd pass on that. Doing back to back oil changes to try to clean things out and changing out the MultiAir filter is safer.

        However, having said the above, I ran into a situation with my son's Subaru where there is a factory Tech Bulletin that recommends using their engine flush to fix a problem with their VVT throwing a MIL. Sometimes these valves can get clogged up if the oil changes weren't done in a timely manner (before the crazy 10K oil change interval) and "their flush" can fix that. I said what the heck, bought their crazy priced flush and changed the oil around 300 -500 miles multiple times and that fixed the issue. That's the only time I've used a flush in 40+ years other than when I was a kid with my old Duster.
        In all fairness though that was a specific problem where the hail-Mary pass of dumping solvents in the oil was better than tearing the top end apart on an opposed 4 - pretty much no matter what other problems it might cause.
        Completely stock 2016 500 Abarth, Rhino & Nero,
        2017 Jeep Renegade 1.4 Turbo, Anvil & Black
        2016 Ford Fiesta ST

        Comment

        • Fiat500USA
          Amministratore
          • Feb 2011
          • 15756

          #19
          Originally posted by HalfPint
          In all fairness though that was a specific problem where the hail-Mary pass of dumping solvents in the oil was better than tearing the top end apart on an opposed 4 - pretty much no matter what other problems it might cause.
          Yeah, I assume the flush was tested to be compatible with seals and gaskets. The parts manager at the dealership I know said they had good luck with it so that made me feel better paying something like $20. Still, I had a feeling that it may have been the same stuff they sell down the street for $5.

          When I worked at an VW/Audi shop they also had a problem of engines sludging up so they issued a tech bulletin to run a flush through, but then they wanted you to pull the pan down, clean it and clean/replace the oil pickup tube.

          I also recall Chrysler has a flush, too. Better than tearing an engine apart like you said. All can be avoided by just changing the oil regularly.

          I'm not big with additives, but I use fuel stabilizers in my old car and small engines. A zinc additive in the '73 coupe and I have used Techron occasionally. That's got a good reputation and I've seen OEMs recommend it, so that's good enough for me.
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          Comment

          • map
            Moderator
            • Dec 2018
            • 3702

            #20
            Originally posted by Fiat500USA
            I've seen guys run Seafoam through their intake via a vacuum hose and it produces what looks like the worlds biggest clouds of dense, white smoke. There was a guy around here that did it in the Walmart parking lot and the fire department was called because someone thought the store was burning down. I can't imagine that would be good for the converter. I've also had folks tell me their plugs got fouled out by doing that. Seems more suitable for a car like my old 70 Duster.
            We used to do that with Marvel Mystery Oil, back in the 60's. I think that may be where people got the idea of putting Seafoam in the oil... and granddad's advice is still being used on today's cars. In the 60's, before PVC systems, it was common for an engine to sludge up. The problem with cleaning the sludge was oil passages could get blocked. My '59 Hillman suffered that fate simply by switching from Pennzoil to Valvoline (an oil, at the time, that cleaned better). The oil pressure bypass seized open and, if I hadn't had an oil gauge, would have ruined the engine. Oil pressure dropped to 12 lbs.

            Dumping Marvel down the carb produced an amazing amount of smoke and was supposed to remove carbon build up. I ran 1/4 can thru the one car in the driveway and dad came running out of the house with a fire extinguisher.

            Comment

            • smark
              • Apr 2014
              • 4937

              #21
              Originally posted by map
              We used to do that with Marvel Mystery Oil, back in the 60's. I think that may be where people got the idea of putting Seafoam in the oil... and granddad's advice is still being used on today's cars. In the 60's, before PVC systems, it was common for an engine to sludge up. The problem with cleaning the sludge was oil passages could get blocked. My '59 Hillman suffered that fate simply by switching from Pennzoil to Valvoline (an oil, at the time, that cleaned better). The oil pressure bypass seized open and, if I hadn't had an oil gauge, would have ruined the engine. Oil pressure dropped to 12 lbs.

              Dumping Marvel down the carb produced an amazing amount of smoke and was supposed to remove carbon build up. I ran 1/4 can thru the one car in the driveway and dad came running out of the house with a fire extinguisher.
              We poured Marvel down the spark plug holes. Let it set for a couple days. Loosen up a seized engine. We poured brake fluid down the carburetor of a running engine. You got massive smoke out the tail pipe.
              Last edited by smark; 03-06-2021, 03:42 PM.

              Comment

              • map
                Moderator
                • Dec 2018
                • 3702

                #22
                I'm going to see if I can dig out the old can, or find it locally. This Fall I'm taking my 1982 Yamaha 250cc out of storage... last used in 1988 or something like that. If she runs again it'll be an easy restore.

                Comment

                • Hugo L.
                  Senior Member
                  • Jan 2018
                  • 187

                  #23
                  Well, I have used Seafoam in my E36 M3 and many other cars successfully. Rule of thumb : 1/3 of the can in the intake through the brake vacuum hose, 1/3 in the fuel tank, 1/3 in the crankcase BUT you have to change the oil right after. Cleared up those carbon deposits and never had a single unwanted side effect, nor a CEL.

                  The only reason I’m reluctant to use it on the Abarth is that I’m not sure if if could have an adverse effect on the lubrication of the turbo.

                  Before relying on that idiot Scotty Kilmer, watch this instead. Not saying every modern car is similar to a Ford Ranger, but you get the idea of what it does.

                  Last edited by Fiat500USA; 03-07-2021, 11:01 AM. Reason: embedded video
                  2013 500C Abarth - Manual - Bianco exterior - Rosso/nero leather interior
                  Neu-F short shift adapter | Eurocompulsion V3 intake | Sprint air filter | Eurocompulsion ram air elbow | Eurocompulsion boost leak fix kit | Alfa Romeo 4C ignition coils | GFB DV+ diverter valve | 500T Black-trimmed tail lights | Energy rear bumpstops | «Zonkered» rear stock springs | KYB rear Corvette shocks | 25mm Corsa Forza Performance rear torsion bar | Corsa Forza Performance lower subframe brace

                  Comment

                  • HalfPint
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2019
                    • 906

                    #24
                    Originally posted by Hugo L.
                    Well, I have used Seafoam in my E36 M3 and many other cars successfully. Rule of thumb : 1/3 of the can in the intake through the brake vacuum hose, 1/3 in the fuel tank, 1/3 in the crankcase BUT you have to change the oil right after. Cleared up those carbon deposits and never had a single unwanted side effect, nor a CEL.

                    The only reason I’m reluctant to use it on the Abarth is that I’m not sure if if could have an adverse effect on the lubrication of the turbo.

                    Before relying on that idiot Scotty Kilmer, watch this instead. Not saying every modern car is similar to a Ford Ranger, but you get the idea of what it does.

                    I have a Ranger - all of the engines are a very long way from a Fiat 1.4 Turbo. The most sophisticated is the 2.3 Mazda 4, but that's not in the Ranger in that video.

                    The cast iron, pushrod, 2 valve 3.0 V6 in my Ranger has a modern fuel injection system, runs very clean and I don't see any reason it would need solvents dumped into it's fuel system. The plugs are quite clean when I look at them, so I seriously doubt the combustion chambers are carboned up much. Looking into the oil fill in the valve covers, and inside the timing cover when I had it off, all was quite clean with little sign of sludge. This is on an engine with a positively antique architecture.
                    Completely stock 2016 500 Abarth, Rhino & Nero,
                    2017 Jeep Renegade 1.4 Turbo, Anvil & Black
                    2016 Ford Fiesta ST

                    Comment

                    • map
                      Moderator
                      • Dec 2018
                      • 3702

                      #25
                      The Lucas product is an STP knockoff. No wonder the lifters quieted down. He went to about a 60W oil. My uncle's car lot used to squirt in a quart of 90W to quiet an engine knock. I notice after the Seafoam he doesn't let it drop to a normal idle.

                      On the same note, there's a Youtube of a dude with a '94 Ranger with the 4 cylinder. He had about 1/4 tank of gas and topped it off with a couple half gallon bottles of vodka... and the truck ran on it. *If* your engine is sludged, you can run 20% diesel in the oil to de-sludge. Newer cars don't really like having solvents sprayed down the throttle body; can damage the sensor, only used as a last resort. 1/2 to 1 ounce paint thinner per gallon of oil will clean the injectors.

                      Really, none of this abuse proves Seafoam should be put in anything other than a rolling wreck. Companies like Lucas came along shortly after the invention of the first car and are still around. If the car is headed for the scrap yard, nothing to lose for $20 or $30 on miracle cures. As I said, I tried a lot of them... usually on cars that ended up dead w/in 12 months.

                      Comment

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