thanks guys. i've been successfully turned off. i guess i'll go get my ten bucks back
Has anyone Seafoamed (or similar) their 1.4T?
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honestly dude, i'm just doing everything that I can in order to lengthen the longevity of this used engine that i'm sure had been sitting for a while. When googling ways to do that, seafoam came up and it's only ten bucks.👍 1- Top
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I've seen guys run Seafoam through their intake via a vacuum hose and it produces what looks like the worlds biggest clouds of dense, white smoke. There was a guy around here that did it in the Walmart parking lot and the fire department was called because someone thought the store was burning down. I can't imagine that would be good for the converter. I've also had folks tell me their plugs got fouled out by doing that. Seems more suitable for a car like my old 70 Duster.
As for putting it the oil, I'd pass on that. Doing back to back oil changes to try to clean things out and changing out the MultiAir filter is safer.
However, having said the above, I ran into a situation with my son's Subaru where there is a factory Tech Bulletin that recommends using their engine flush to fix a problem with their VVT throwing a MIL. Sometimes these valves can get clogged up if the oil changes weren't done in a timely manner (before the crazy 10K oil change interval) and "their flush" can fix that. I said what the heck, bought their crazy priced flush and changed the oil around 300 -500 miles multiple times and that fixed the issue. That's the only time I've used a flush in 40+ years other than when I was a kid with my old Duster.Completely stock 2016 500 Abarth, Rhino & Nero,
2017 Jeep Renegade 1.4 Turbo, Anvil & Black
2016 Ford Fiesta ST- Top
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When I worked at an VW/Audi shop they also had a problem of engines sludging up so they issued a tech bulletin to run a flush through, but then they wanted you to pull the pan down, clean it and clean/replace the oil pickup tube.
I also recall Chrysler has a flush, too. Better than tearing an engine apart like you said. All can be avoided by just changing the oil regularly.
I'm not big with additives, but I use fuel stabilizers in my old car and small engines. A zinc additive in the '73 coupe and I have used Techron occasionally. That's got a good reputation and I've seen OEMs recommend it, so that's good enough for me.Enjoy the Forum? Tell a Friend and Please Whitelist us on your Ad Blocker. Thx!
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I've seen guys run Seafoam through their intake via a vacuum hose and it produces what looks like the worlds biggest clouds of dense, white smoke. There was a guy around here that did it in the Walmart parking lot and the fire department was called because someone thought the store was burning down. I can't imagine that would be good for the converter. I've also had folks tell me their plugs got fouled out by doing that. Seems more suitable for a car like my old 70 Duster.
Dumping Marvel down the carb produced an amazing amount of smoke and was supposed to remove carbon build up. I ran 1/4 can thru the one car in the driveway and dad came running out of the house with a fire extinguisher.👍 1- Top
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We used to do that with Marvel Mystery Oil, back in the 60's. I think that may be where people got the idea of putting Seafoam in the oil... and granddad's advice is still being used on today's cars. In the 60's, before PVC systems, it was common for an engine to sludge up. The problem with cleaning the sludge was oil passages could get blocked. My '59 Hillman suffered that fate simply by switching from Pennzoil to Valvoline (an oil, at the time, that cleaned better). The oil pressure bypass seized open and, if I hadn't had an oil gauge, would have ruined the engine. Oil pressure dropped to 12 lbs.
Dumping Marvel down the carb produced an amazing amount of smoke and was supposed to remove carbon build up. I ran 1/4 can thru the one car in the driveway and dad came running out of the house with a fire extinguisher.Last edited by smark; 03-06-2021, 03:42 PM.👍 2- Top
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Well, I have used Seafoam in my E36 M3 and many other cars successfully. Rule of thumb : 1/3 of the can in the intake through the brake vacuum hose, 1/3 in the fuel tank, 1/3 in the crankcase BUT you have to change the oil right after. Cleared up those carbon deposits and never had a single unwanted side effect, nor a CEL.
The only reason I’m reluctant to use it on the Abarth is that I’m not sure if if could have an adverse effect on the lubrication of the turbo.
Before relying on that idiot Scotty Kilmer, watch this instead. Not saying every modern car is similar to a Ford Ranger, but you get the idea of what it does.
2013 500C Abarth - Manual - Bianco exterior - Rosso/nero leather interior
Neu-F short shift adapter | Eurocompulsion V3 intake | Sprint air filter | Eurocompulsion ram air elbow | Eurocompulsion boost leak fix kit | Alfa Romeo 4C ignition coils | GFB DV+ diverter valve | 500T Black-trimmed tail lights | Energy rear bumpstops | «Zonkered» rear stock springs | KYB rear Corvette shocks | 25mm Corsa Forza Performance rear torsion bar | Corsa Forza Performance lower subframe brace- Top
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Well, I have used Seafoam in my E36 M3 and many other cars successfully. Rule of thumb : 1/3 of the can in the intake through the brake vacuum hose, 1/3 in the fuel tank, 1/3 in the crankcase BUT you have to change the oil right after. Cleared up those carbon deposits and never had a single unwanted side effect, nor a CEL.
The only reason I’m reluctant to use it on the Abarth is that I’m not sure if if could have an adverse effect on the lubrication of the turbo.
Before relying on that idiot Scotty Kilmer, watch this instead. Not saying every modern car is similar to a Ford Ranger, but you get the idea of what it does.
The cast iron, pushrod, 2 valve 3.0 V6 in my Ranger has a modern fuel injection system, runs very clean and I don't see any reason it would need solvents dumped into it's fuel system. The plugs are quite clean when I look at them, so I seriously doubt the combustion chambers are carboned up much. Looking into the oil fill in the valve covers, and inside the timing cover when I had it off, all was quite clean with little sign of sludge. This is on an engine with a positively antique architecture.Completely stock 2016 500 Abarth, Rhino & Nero,
2017 Jeep Renegade 1.4 Turbo, Anvil & Black
2016 Ford Fiesta ST- Top
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The Lucas product is an STP knockoff. No wonder the lifters quieted down. He went to about a 60W oil. My uncle's car lot used to squirt in a quart of 90W to quiet an engine knock. I notice after the Seafoam he doesn't let it drop to a normal idle.
On the same note, there's a Youtube of a dude with a '94 Ranger with the 4 cylinder. He had about 1/4 tank of gas and topped it off with a couple half gallon bottles of vodka... and the truck ran on it. *If* your engine is sludged, you can run 20% diesel in the oil to de-sludge. Newer cars don't really like having solvents sprayed down the throttle body; can damage the sensor, only used as a last resort. 1/2 to 1 ounce paint thinner per gallon of oil will clean the injectors.
Really, none of this abuse proves Seafoam should be put in anything other than a rolling wreck. Companies like Lucas came along shortly after the invention of the first car and are still around. If the car is headed for the scrap yard, nothing to lose for $20 or $30 on miracle cures. As I said, I tried a lot of them... usually on cars that ended up dead w/in 12 months.👍 3- Top
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