Bought a broken car. On purpose. Now time to have some fun.

[jgrote]

So I just picked up a 14 GQ for <$4k with what was diagnosed as a bad turbo. The car was still sitting at his mechanic's shop. The car starts, but billows smoke. It currently has ~75k miles, but has had A LOT of work done to it. @40k, the engine and turbo were replaced under warranty. Just last week, one of the intercoolers was replaced. So I'm fully expecting to have to replace the turbo, but if the IC's and plumbing are as full of oil as I think they are, I might go FMIC. I'm not looking for any more power, so I'd like to avoid a tune if possible. Now for the questions.
1) Can I do a FMIC with no tune? Which one?
2) Used turbo, Stigan OEM replacement, or is there a better option?
3) Why is it eating turbos? I've read a little about the PCV system and oiling problems, but still new to this platform.

[KellyfromVA]

I don't own an Abarth, but do know quite a bit about turbo pumps (turbochargers).

1. Bearing failure. A bearing failure can cause an expensive minor inconvenience if caught early, or if not caught early, catastrophic engine failure. The latter happens when either the hot or cold side impeller goes out of balance or off center, then either breaks fins off, ingesting pieces of the impeller or housing into the engine at high speed. Those metal fragments do a lot of damage to valves, cylinder walls or anything else mechanical downstream. Those tiny metal fragments can also circulate in the oil, killing a replacement turbo. I would plan on an oil change and send a sample of oil to a testing lab to check for contaminates. For $30, you'll determine pretty quickly if the engine is toast.

2. Hot side shaft seal failure. Makes a lot of smoke because engine oil intended for the turbine shaft is being injected into the hot side and out the exhaust. Hot side shaft seal failure can be cause by a failed bearing, or just a seal failure. Rebuilding a turbo with just a seal failure is pretty inexpensive as compared with replacing the turbo. Assuming the turbine wheel hasn't been damaged, a competent shop can rebuild the turbo with new bearings and seals.

[Robert Zecca]

So I just picked up a 14 GQ for <$4k with what was diagnosed as a bad turbo. The car was still sitting at his mechanic's shop. The car starts, but billows smoke. It currently has ~75k miles, but has had A LOT of work done to it. @40k, the engine and turbo were replaced under warranty. Just last week, one of the intercoolers was replaced. So I'm fully expecting to have to replace the turbo, but if the IC's and plumbing are as full of oil as I think they are, I might go FMIC. I'm not looking for any more power, so I'd like to avoid a tune if possible. Now for the questions.
1) Can I do a FMIC with no tune? Which one?
2) Used turbo, Stigan OEM replacement, or is there a better option?
3) Why is it eating turbos? I've read a little about the PCV system and oiling problems, but still new to this platform.

I stock BRAND NEW GARRETT 1446 TURBOS new not rebuilt. Other sell rebuilts because they ask for a core charge. We only sell new and the important thing is the WASTEGATE. When they rebuild a turbo in many cases they leave the original wastegate that does no hold boost over time. Call me anytime with questions. I am here to serve you. www.dicorse.com 239-676-5934

[Hermiabarth]

Now for the questions.
1) Can I do a FMIC with no tune? Which one?

Your car sounds like a great find. Post a pic when you can. No tune required for a FMIC. I have an ATM on my 2016 Abarth and no tune. It works fine and has pretty much the shortest, most direct turbo connections. You will be amazed at the piping you can throw away when you get rid of the side mount ICs.