mobil onay değerli oranlar Betboo yeni adresi izmir escort antalya escort izmir escort porno porno izle bursa escort escort mobil porno havalandirma sistemleri metin2 pvp serverler saha betonu izmir escort bursa escort izmir escort izmir escort istanbul escort
2015 Fiat Turbo Sport. Tork Tune. - What's next from here?
500 Madness
   
 

KONI Shock Value Sale

 
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: 2015 Fiat Turbo Sport. Tork Tune. - What's next from here?

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    12
    Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts

    2015 Fiat Turbo Sport. Tork Tune. - What's next from here?

    I figured this warranted a new thread..?

    I am beyond impressed with the Tork Tune modification...

    From your guidance I made this choice. I am very happy with the choice...

    What's next from here?

    I have 120k miles - I've considered shocks - The tire place showed me some play under the hood with the front struts - what's that usually about?
    I've also considered no cat (no issue in my state), blowoff valve maybe? I have NGK plugs... Just trying to see what you guys recommend... I don't wanna get over 220 based on sound advice from another member. I don't know for certain what I even have. 175bhp maybe?

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to cryptoxx For This Useful Post:

    Mikeyjm1 (09-12-2020), texanbrit (09-14-2020)

  3. #2
    Mikeyjm1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Creedmoor, NC
    Posts
    392
    Thanks
    480
    Thanked 139 Times in 101 Posts
    At 120k I’d be looking into the timing belt.

    Cat less or a high flow should make a big difference but will need the tune updated.
    16’ 500X Pop, Rosso, 1.4T/M6, 18” O.Z. 45th Anniversary wheels, H&R springs, Momo shift knob, K&N drop in, MPX Throttle Body, Deyeme Racing CDV delete, Magnaflow (Renegade) cat-back with custom 2.5” B-pipe by http://stagefp.com/, ATP Highflow downpipe.

    13’ 500 Abarth, Bianco, M5,
    17”, Koni shocks, Eibach Prokit, CFP Hats, ES/EC bumpstops and seats, Powerstop rotors and pads, K&N drop in. (Wife's)

    95’ Wrangler, Aqua, 4.0/Auto,
    33” on 15x8”, 4” lift, too much to list here (Also Hers)

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Mikeyjm1 For This Useful Post:

    smark (09-12-2020)

  5. #3
    Mikeyjm1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Creedmoor, NC
    Posts
    392
    Thanks
    480
    Thanked 139 Times in 101 Posts
    Oh and the shocks; I usually assume shocks last 50-60k miles, then they’re done.

    We went with Koni sports and eibach pro kit springs. And my very skeptical wife loves them. You’ll want to replace the strut mounts. They have an internal bearing and wear out. We also used CFP top hats to control that “play” under the hood.
    16’ 500X Pop, Rosso, 1.4T/M6, 18” O.Z. 45th Anniversary wheels, H&R springs, Momo shift knob, K&N drop in, MPX Throttle Body, Deyeme Racing CDV delete, Magnaflow (Renegade) cat-back with custom 2.5” B-pipe by http://stagefp.com/, ATP Highflow downpipe.

    13’ 500 Abarth, Bianco, M5,
    17”, Koni shocks, Eibach Prokit, CFP Hats, ES/EC bumpstops and seats, Powerstop rotors and pads, K&N drop in. (Wife's)

    95’ Wrangler, Aqua, 4.0/Auto,
    33” on 15x8”, 4” lift, too much to list here (Also Hers)

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Mikeyjm1 For This Useful Post:

    smark (09-12-2020)

  7. #4
    Senior Member aelfwyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Beaumont, Texas
    Posts
    1,438
    Thanks
    89
    Thanked 571 Times in 395 Posts
    As for shocks that's a really easy upgrade on our cars, but not cheap for the front. You've got few options. They KYB specified for Fiat 500 are equivalent to what goes onto a Pop or Sport I believe. They aren't appropriate for the Abarth suspension, yet KYB lists them as compatible.

    However, the easiest fix is the strut caps. Our cars have a floating top strut mount, and with a floating cap. That cap can wear out and cause the top to rattle/wander around a bit. Those are easy to buy and replace.

    The struts themselves, for the front, there are no cheap aftermarket for the front. Either factory replacements, Koni Sport Yellow (the preferred) or coilover.

    For the rear, you have a few options. Factory replacement, Koni Sport Yellow (preferred if you're willing to spend the $$$), and there are a couple of cross-application options to consider that are cheaper.

    The alternatives for the rear are from the 84-87 Corvette. Along with some small bushings to make them fit, those shocks fit perfectly. The two of interest are:
    KYB Gas-A-Just - KG5564
    Bilstein B8 - 24-184588

    The KYB are closer to stock Abarth shock length so better if you're not lowered. I found them closer to stock stiffness as well. The B8 are from the ZR1 package corvette and have a shorter eye to eye length, which is good if you're lowered. Their stiffness is closer to the Koni Yellow set about 3/4 Hard in my experience. I run the B8 on my 500T, I didn't like the KYB honestly. I also have the Koni Yellow on my Abarth - by comparison I see no reason to spend more for the Koni Yellow.

    If you're interested in any of that, just let me know and I can link you to instructions for the swap. It's very easy.
    Last edited by aelfwyne; 09-12-2020 at 01:11 PM.
    2015 Rosso Abarth - MAD FIAT - 5 Speed - Phase 2
    2015 Granito Lucente 500T - Proyecto Estupido (Salvage) - Auto - OFT Stage 1

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to aelfwyne For This Useful Post:

    texanbrit (09-14-2020)

  9. #5
    Senior Member aelfwyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Beaumont, Texas
    Posts
    1,438
    Thanks
    89
    Thanked 571 Times in 395 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by cryptoxx View Post
    I figured this warranted a new thread..?

    I am beyond impressed with the Tork Tune modification...

    From your guidance I made this choice. I am very happy with the choice...

    What's next from here?

    I have 120k miles - I've considered shocks - The tire place showed me some play under the hood with the front struts - what's that usually about?
    I've also considered no cat (no issue in my state), blowoff valve maybe? I have NGK plugs... Just trying to see what you guys recommend... I don't wanna get over 220 based on sound advice from another member. I don't know for certain what I even have. 175bhp maybe?
    Made a separate post for other topics.

    1. Cat Delete - it will cause a P0420 code which can't be removed with older methods such as spacers. However your Tork Tune should have deleted the code (he can add that if you need it). That will work on any state that has no emissions or just looks for the light to be clear. Catless is loud though. I recommend a 200 Cell cat to keep the wife happy, and it has the best sound with less odor.

    2. Blowoff Valve - swapping is limited because it's integral to the turbo. However, the best two upgrades are the Forge Recirculating Valve or the Forge Atmospheric Valve. If you want sound, go for the atmospheric. Both will bolt directly on to the factory location. Many people recommend the GoFastBits DV+ upgrade, however I find it's finicky and requires frequent cleaning. (Yes I've tried all 3 variations).

    3. Plugs - The best are the factory. NGK SIKR9A7. There is a less expensive NGK DCPR9EIX that works fine, but along with being 1/2 the cost, they also last 1/2 as long. Tuned, you will burn through plugs way faster than the factory specification if you drive hard. My DCPR9EIX plugs started breaking up after 15,000 miles. So I switched back to SIKR9A7. Brisk plugs have an even shorter life, and don't seem to have any performance advantage. You do want to make sure the SIKR9A7 are gapped tightly at around .023mm fir a tuned engine. I think factory is .026mm.

    4. PCV Valve / Air Oil Separator - Recommended to clean this regularly. Make sure the PCV is freed up. The risk is that if your PCV sticks, or the AOS is clogged, not only do you get increased oil usage, but a sticking PCV can cause boost to get into the block, which is bad.



    5. At 120k miles, just watch the oil closely. With higher boost, you'll burn a bit more oil. If you see oil buildup on your turbo inlet you may want to add a catch can.

    You'll be safe not making too much power with a standard Tork tune, these upgrades will just keep it running right, not necessarily add a lot of power. Going past 220 without losing too much turbo efficiency, you really need to upgrade the turbo.
    Last edited by Fiat500USA; 09-12-2020 at 08:13 PM. Reason: embedded video
    2015 Rosso Abarth - MAD FIAT - 5 Speed - Phase 2
    2015 Granito Lucente 500T - Proyecto Estupido (Salvage) - Auto - OFT Stage 1

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to aelfwyne For This Useful Post:

    texanbrit (09-14-2020)

  11. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    12
    Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
    Once again, THANK you guys so much for your input. As for the oil, what is the recommendation for the best oil to run? My grandfather sold grease and oil for farm equipment most of his life, and his oil had MOLYbdenum. We ran his oil in all our vehicles until after his death and we had used all the reserves.. I did see an oil that was compatible with this car that had MOLY in the name I think "Liqui Moly" I believe.. Anyhow, I bought the vehicle with 500 miles on the new oil change but changed it anyway. I was planning on just taking that 7,500 mile figure and cutting it in half. But 5k would be ok?
    Thank you so much for timing belt suggestion - I want to stay ahead of as many potential problems as I can.

    Q.1 - How much for timing belt replacement at dealership?
    Q.1.a - Aside from doing it myself, would dealership be my safest option? I live in Fairhope AL, and given my experience with the Porsche, this area isn't very savy with not-so-common foreign cars.

    Q.2 - Will going cat-less cause a lack of back pressure which in turn would take from the Torque? That might be a hard one. I don't remember which car it was I had (subaru wrx, audi a4, porsche 944turbo or golf gti) but when researching going with a test pipe, I was shown some good info on how going 3" and no cat actually negatively affected the torque. Given, I'm not looking to do some full exhaust change.
    Q.2.a - If I go cat-less or high flow - would the upgraded down pipe kinda be common sense?

    Q.3 - Front struts/shocks - I have experience with Yellow Koni Adjustables. I loved them.

    Q.4 - So the front shocks/struts wear out pretty quickly? I'm kinda surprised by the 50-60k statement. Are the rears in the same boat?
    Q.4.a -It'd be best to change all 4 at once? It would still need an alignment after replacing just the rear? I feel like that answer is obvious, but I'm going to ask it anyway.

    Final Q - would you guys say this sounds reasonable? - Get the Koni's for the front and ? for back, then install them, THEN take it in for the timing belt AND alignment? Should I consider doing it myself(Timing)? I did the timing belt on both porsche's and was nervous the whole time LOL. the one on the 83 944 had snapped and bent valves which is why I had replace it.

    EDIT: Oh, and the guy I bought this from had an Abarth, and he told me from the jump that they burn a little oil. Having lost my "precious" to low oil when I was just a youngin I check it quite often.
    Last edited by cryptoxx; 09-12-2020 at 05:42 PM.

  12. #7
    Senior Member aelfwyne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Beaumont, Texas
    Posts
    1,438
    Thanks
    89
    Thanked 571 Times in 395 Posts
    1. - Timing belt expensive. Not sure exactly how much. Both my cars (Abarth & 500 Turbo) are around 53,000 miles. So not time yet. Have swapped both the engine and trans on one, so that one's engine is really at about 25,000 miles or so. I'm a ways away from timing belt jobs.

    1.a. - The challenge if DIY is that it requires a locking tool that must be purchased. Some people have found generic versions of the locking tool that work and are affordable, best to look around if going to DIY. "Mechanics" who have tried it without the locking tool have had bad days. There are no alignment marks and it is extremely sensitive if any one part is out of place.

    2. The turbo is small enough that it provides enough back pressure on its own, I haven't heard of any backpressure related performance loss on those cars.
    2.a - the cat & downpipe are synonymous on these cars, the cat is immediately below the turbo on the downpipe. Biggest restriction in stock exhaust is there's a pinch in the midpipe and the axle back joint is obstructive on the stock exhaust. For reasonable power levels the midpipe is fine though. A swapped axle back will usually have a deeper tone by eliminating the bad T-joint.

    4. - Strut life depends on something, not sure what ... My Abarth has 52,000 miles and the front factory struts (which have Koni FSD tech btw, but aren't adjustable), they are still just fine. However I've personally witnessed struts with less miles than that on them go bouncy. I think the FSD valves wear out? I've seen "bad" ones that weren't leaking at all.
    4.a. - The rear alignment is pretty much fixed. If it's off (some cars have an offset rear axle from the factory, for example) then shims are the only way. So no, you wouldn't need an alignment after swapping the rear. Nothing really to adjust there.
    4.b. - The front alignment is debatable. If you're replacing the stock struts and not lowering, not much point to an alignment as again there's very little to actually adjust! The stock struts have fixed mounting positions and normal bolts. Only one way to mount them. If you lower, you may need to get camber bolts if you want to change your camber.

    The lack of alignment adjustability in these cars is one of the ways you can see that the platform is based on something cheaper and less performance oriented than your 944. However the factory alignment handles pretty well normally.
    2015 Rosso Abarth - MAD FIAT - 5 Speed - Phase 2
    2015 Granito Lucente 500T - Proyecto Estupido (Salvage) - Auto - OFT Stage 1

  13. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to aelfwyne For This Useful Post:

    cryptoxx (09-13-2020), Fiat500USA (09-12-2020)

  14. #8
    Lifetime Member texanbrit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conroe, TX
    Posts
    547
    Thanks
    331
    Thanked 239 Times in 168 Posts
    1. If you've done a timing in a porsche then the Abarth should be okay for you. It's just cramped and fiddly, but with the right tools it's not terrible.

    4. Strut life seems to depend on how/where the car is driven. Potholes take a toll. I know lots of people who are in 6 figures on original struts/shocks, but we have nice roads on the whole in Texas.

    You don't need to do an alignment for just shocks. I would take the car for an alignment anyway, just to have a benchmark and make sure everything is where it's supposed to be. An alignment costs less than the tires that get chewed up.
    2013 500c Abarth - NGEN Turbo
    2012 500 Pop - daily
    2014 500L - Family
    1971 850 Spider - Project

Similar Threads

  1. 2015 fiat 500 turbo sport - Chip? or ECU Mod really do it? changing from Porsche 944T
    By cryptoxx in forum Fiat 500 Turbo General Discussions
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 09-12-2020, 01:58 PM
  2. Has anyone here installed Tork intake on specifically 2015 + abarth/turbo
    By chickenbop in forum Fiat 500 ABARTH Engine and Drivetrain Tuning
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-28-2020, 11:30 PM
  3. Tork tune for 2018 Fiat 500 Turbo 8GMK--Word of Warning
    By 2tricktony in forum Fiat 500 ABARTH Engine and Drivetrain Tuning
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 11-20-2019, 11:26 PM
  4. Stock Tune VS Tork Tune Sounds Alfa Romeo 4C
    By Sales@Tork2 in forum Alfa Romeo 4C
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-14-2016, 07:17 PM
  5. Tork Tune on a POP/Sport
    By bobafiat in forum Tork Motorsports
    Replies: 35
    Last Post: 02-18-2015, 07:27 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •