Rough idle and then dies...No codes or warning lights

[SupraWoman]

Started the car up this morning and it took a little bit to get it to turn over and when turning over it was SLOW not fast. After it finally started it was really rough like bogging (could barely tell the difference in it trying to turn over and finally turning over), gave it a little gas while still idling and then it immediately died. Tried to start it again and it took even longer to turn over and once it did you could tell that it was still struggling to stay going. Of course, this would happen while i was trying to get to work. So, meanwhile i am at work trying to think of what i could possibly do to attempt in fixing it without taking it to a shop or buying a myriad of things to try.

Also, when i popped the hood to check all fluids after my attempts, and did not spell any odors other than all the gas i dumped when trying to start it. Was a little confused that there are no codes and no warning lights on. My first step, i guess would be just to change the spark plugs, check the coil packs, check vacuum lines. Also, wondering if it could be the fuel pump, since its stalling and struggling to start. What about the MAF?

Has anyone else had this issue before? Any other suggestions on things i should try before i get too crazy with other ideas?!

[Saponetta]

Your description is a little strange. If a car barely cranks when you turn the key obviously you have a battery or charging issue. It's cold and batteries go bad very suddenly in winter sometimes. Usually if you can start it it will then run if the alternator works.

[SupraWoman]

At first i did agree that it maybe it was a charge issue with the slow cranking, but the idle made me think ignition issue, then the stalling made me think fuel.
1. I got it to turn over 2 times,
2. It could idle like misfiring, i didnt look at the RPMs but i would assume consistent bouncing RPMs.
3. if you barely touch the gas, it stalls out.

I have been trying to think of what issues do not throw codes. The car has been driven daily with no issues, until now and its 60 degrees here and was in the 40s+ past few days. I do agree that the issue seems odd.

[texanbrit]

check the ground under the battery. Unfortunately a weak battery can cause these cars to be a bit rough and unpredictable.

[SupraWoman]

Update!

Ok, so this morning the car wouldn’t start. Checked the batter/connectors everything good; tried to jump it with my other car and it was trying to crank but didn’t turn over...

now im going to check the fuel pump relay then the actual fuel pump.

[fiatration]

I would look at the MAF sensor or the fuel pump. The symptoms sound like a MAF problem, but if it is the MAF sensor, then it should throw an error code. You can try cleaning the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner from the auto store. It also sounds like the fuel pump may be on its way out. It’s not able to feed the fuel injectors the required fuel pressure when the throttle is pressed causing the motor to stall. I’m not a 100% certain if a faulty fuel pump will throw an error code, but you can test the system’s fuel pressure with a gauge before going in that direction to fix the problem. I hope this helps.

[KellyfromVA]

It sounds strange and unrelated, but how is your oil level? Are you running the correct viscosity of oil? There have been 500 Abarth owners right here in this very forum, who have reported similar instances of rough running and starting problems. Come to find out, either their oil level was low/out, or they had not been using the correct viscosity of oil.

The multiair valve activation system on these cars are very particular on oil availability and viscosity.

[Saponetta]

All of the above could be true, but the very slow cranking points to battery/charge. A flat bad battery or insufficient voltage from alternator can cause rough running, stalls. Yiu can guess and guess but until you methoically start testing and eliminating components and systems, your just wasting time, effort and money.

[KellyfromVA]

Yiu can guess and guess but until you methoically start testing and eliminating components and systems, your just wasting time, effort and money.

So checking the oil level and making sure at the next oil change they're running the correct viscosity is a waste of time, effort, and money? Guess your time must be more valuable than mine!

[Saponetta]

That would be a step in diagnosing systems/components. I guess processing what you read into thoughts and insight isnt your strong suit.

[Fiat500USA]

I'm on the road at the moment, but while we're all putting on our thinking caps, let's keep it on the friendly side. It sounded like Saponetta was talking to the OP in the thread. At least that's how I took it.

As for the slow cranking, the fuel pump relay wouldn't have much to do with that.

[Saponetta]

Yea wasnt talking to that fool. I just made them comment because the op seemed to be getting off track on theories getting further and further from the most likely causes without doing any actual diagnostic work. Nothing will ever get fixed on a modern car with that approach. That's what I hate about forums. Too many theories and repetition of something they saw or read before and not enough facts, proof, and proper procedure. But I guess of you censored out or removed all the parrots and useless posters, forums couldn't exist to provide the good info that can be found

[happyappy]

I'm betting a new battery fixes it.

[SupraWoman]

Fixed....ready for it??! It was the battery, had a bad cell. Took it in to advanced auto for them to check it and yup! So replaced that today and it started up. I did check all the easy things, the relays, fuses, connections, but skipped checking the actual battery because i would have thought that jumping it with my Cayenne would have worked if it were the battery. I guess i am still confused about that part.

On another note, all the above ideas to diagnose the issue, is what i have had to do in the past on my Supra (had a failed fuel pump, a failed relay, etc.), so it seemed really strange that a battery could do this. I have yet to learn this temperamental car. Thank you all for your input!

[Fiat500USA]

After reading your posts, I'm not too sure if you are having a problem with the engine cranking at a normal speed or the engine running poorly when it finally starts, or both issues.

Sometimes there is confusion on terms like crank and turn over. Cranking and turning over refer to what happens when you turn the ignition key to start and the starter motor spins the engine. When the engine finally runs on its own and you release the key that is something different and is a running issue.

If the starter motor cranks slowly you need to look at the starting system (battery/cables/starter wires/ignition switch and anything else in the system that will keep the starter motor from cranking at the correct speed). Once you release the key, and the engine is running on its own, the starting system is pretty much done and you're looking at the systems that keep the engine running (ignition/fuel and charging systems). A fuel pump relay normally doesn't have anything to do with how fast the engine cranks for example. It will have an impact on how the engine starts and runs though. Of course this assumes that the basics like having enough of the proper oil is in the engine, as Kelly mentions, because it is especially important in a MultiAir or variable valve timing engine.

If you try jump starting the engine and it still cranks slowly slowly, you likely have some kind of bad connection going on (assuming you have a good battery and good jumper wires and have connected them well) like a bad ground, dirty battery cables, a battery with poor cranking amps, etc. So the first step is going to be getting a multi meter out and measuring voltage, and load testing the battery. The battery cables need to be removed cleaned and even checked for resistance or voltage drop.

Battery voltage and current can't be eyeballed, but need to be measured and connections need to be taken apart and cleaned inspected. You can't tell if a connection is clean if it is not taken apart. Shortcuts and assuming you have the proper voltage and amperage can really screw you up when diagnosing a starting problem.

If the starter spins the engine over at a normal speed and you have difficulty with the engine catching and running on its own, you'll have to troubleshoot the other systems. Let us know.