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2013 fiat 500 Pop, P1064 P106B P0304 - Page 3
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Thread: 2013 fiat 500 Pop, P1064 P106B P0304

  1. #21
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    I flushed out 4 more rounds of radiator coolant until the water was clear of copper crud. it was like rinsing the rice. oooof. And i was so pleased to lose the radiator petcock down somewhere in the engine, never to be seen again. This engine bay is designed to swallow small objects so I have found. So just beware of "resting" things anywhere. heh. Waiting for some block tester liquid to come in the mail so I can rule out head gasket issues at this point. Got some slight mist (smoke?) coming from under the intake in the front of the engine after warming up a few miles. Not sure if that is valve cover oil burn-off after replacing brick or not. Also, on test drive today notice a slight surging when accelerating, especially when cold. Some say this is normal. I feel the timing is drifting or stammering. Could be EGR, Spark plugs, old gas, or needs a new muffler bearing. :-)

  2. #22
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    Keepin' ya'll posted.
    Got the Block Check test fluid in the mail. Rented a turkey baster tester kit :-).
    First try, after engine was 'sorta' warm, fluid went from dark blue to green.
    Dissatisfied with that result after waiting a while I got it up to operating temp where it was turning the fan on......it didn't really turn the blue fluid green after that.
    Hmmm.

    i checked the fluid by taking the Block Tester unit to the tailpipe and it immediately turned lemon yellow.
    So the fluid works in detecting CO2 gas. I Squeezed the bottle in the open air and the fluid turned back to "blue".
    Interesting!
    So i checked the radiator top-up tank again a few times and no real change.

    That said, maybe the off-gassing of the coolant warming up is setting off the liquid to give a false read (vapor swirling in tank during warm up) OR there is a very slight leak on the head gasket (early stages) when the car is warming up.
    Not sure about these new coolants and what they do - OR these TURKEY BASTERS. Do they off-gas, giving false readings to these liquid testers? I've read conflicting reviews :-/.

    Seems like if the head gasket was really an issue we'd see other telltale signs - overheating, mocha-latte, radical misfiring, CODES! (so far no codes)
    That said again, not very happy with the "surgey" nature of this car when driving.

    --waiting for plugs to arrive...

  3. #23
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    Installed 4 new NGK DCPR7E-N-10 spark plugs. Gapped to .040.
    The condensation in the tailpipes seems to be getting less and less so I am going to overlook that for now.
    I did a quick compression check on #4 and we now have 180 lbs. I checked #2 and it still has 190 lbs (I was in a hurry so I did not check #1 and #3 assuming those were still at 190 lbs.
    It starts and idles fine.
    Still getting the spongy acceleration thing. Like the computer is taking a second to inject the fuel. Maybe since the guy reset all of the codes, this reset the adaptive values and it needs to relearn driving habits. but when you step on the gas, it should respond. Feels like the advance isn't working, so you are always over compensating creating a jerky driving experience, like the timing is bouncing around. Anyone else ever have this issue?

  4. #24
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    I see you opened a new thread regarding this car. Since its a continuation of the original thread, I'll reply here with a suggestion:

    Because you're still getting condensation out the exhaust, there is a better than even chance you have water in the fuel tank too. Try filling the tank with fresh fuel, and dump-in two bottles of Heet (auto parts store, yellow bottle). Heet is nothing more than methanol alcohol, and will mix with water in the tank. Next get the car out on the highway and give it a good consistent run at 55+ MPH at normal operating temperature for 100 or so miles to work the water out of everything. You'll probably notice quite a difference after you've run two or so tankfulls of gas through the engine.

    There is no way to adjust ignition timing on these cars, other than a performance "tune" to the ECU or add-on tuning chip. I don't recommend messing with the tuning on a non-turbo engine. You probably already know this, but the "Sport" mode button helps with the timing and fuel advance.

  5. #25
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    Great idea. I did try to "run out" as much of the old gas as possible (I think she was putting low-grade fuel in this car). Then I put 5 gallons of Chevron 91 (California). I'm trying to get it adapted with a computer history so the ECU has info in it that the smog guy can read to see where it will likely end up when getting smogged. I took it to a smog test guy and he said I needed to drive it around for a while. So, that said, it seems to be running a little better :-). It is possible that prolonged driving with the proper fuel, proper coolant and proper gapped plugs and proper oil and filter have "deglazed" whatever was causing part of the problem. Don't forget this had the brick swapped. Would the alcohol affect the NOX or smog values do you think? I'm reading that these Fiat 500s do exhibit a morning condensation tailpipe vapor. I'm also reading lots of posts re the laggy gas pedal. Maybe this will also tighten up with daily driving. But still wondering if a throttle position sensor may be the culprit.

  6. #26
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    It's impossible to run-out water in the fuel tank unless you use something that will mix with the water like Heet. Otherwise water will just sit in the bottom of your tank with occasional gulps of water making it through your fuel system. Straight water going into your engine will severe intermittent driveability issues.

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