Throwing codes after coil pack upgrade

[tettes]

Hey, guys - my 2013 Abarth Cabrio is throwing the following codes after I upgraded to Madness coil packs (car also has ecu, go pedal, bmc intake). Any idea what might be going on here?

P2261
P0069
P006D

The car seems to run fine from what I can tell. Boost pressure hits 18, can't hear a misfire and car seems to pull fine.

I did have an issue with the coil pack harness when I pulled the 4th old coil out. The sleeve from the old oil got stuck in the harness plug and I had to chip away at the broken sleeve to get it out. The harness plug looks a bit chewed up but the plug seems intact.

I tried resetting with my code reader but no luck.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

[tettes]

I drove the car for about 50 miles and the check engine light went away

[streetsurfer]

That’s typical for a code to remain a while unless removed via a reader. It will usually take a few drive cycles otherwise, or some mileage/time for a repaired code to drop off.

Did you put power to the coils before you discovered the sleeve had broken in the connector? I reckon it read the fault then. Good job sorting it!

you might apply some di-electric grease at the connection where you say its chewed up, to keep any potential water out.

[Fiat500USA]

I did some poking around on the forum for you. Does your car have a piggy back or ECU reflash? Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? If you have a piggy back unit, the boost gauge won't read correctly., so don't go by that.

Many people that get these codes do a full system reset. Disconnect your battery for like 15 minutes and depress the brake pedal. You know the system is reset when the clock has to be set.

I would also make sure all your connections are tight and clean.

Some threads tagged with these trouble codes:

P2261
P0069

Good advice:

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I've seen and experienced several examples of nuisance codes due to intermittent grounding, particularly on 2012 and 2013 models. Under the battery battery tray, the main ground wires are attached to the 'frame', along with a braided ground strap that connects the engine through the transmission case. The grounds are not well protected from road grime, rain and (where there is) road salt. Plus the battery drain in the tray drains right over the ground connections.

There are three ground connections. The corrosion is usually under the connections and not readily visible without removing the nuts for each of the connections. I recommend removing those connections, using Scotch Brite, or a wire brush to make the connections all shiny, then after bolting back together, coat the connections with grease.

You'll be amazed how things settle down.

Some code definitions from previous posts:

Some info for you on the P2261 code:

Theory of Operation
When the accelerator is closed suddenly, excessive boost pressure can build up between the Turbocharger and the Throttle Body which can cause damage to the Turbocharger. This can occur because the compressed air created by the Turbocharger has no place to go. This results in compressor surge. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detects this pressure increase via input from the Boost Pressure Sensor. The Boost Pressure Sensor operates as a typical three wire sensor. The PCM provides a 5–volt supply and sensor return circuit to the Boost Pressure Sensor and receives a feedback voltage on the signal circuit. The Turbocharger Surge Valve is responsible for venting the boost pressure between the Turbocharger and Throttle Body during sudden deceleration. The Turbocharger Surge Valve is normally spring loaded closed. When the PCM receives an input signal from the Boost Pressure Sensor that the pressure is above a calibrated amount, the PCM grounds the Turbocharger Surge Valve Control circuit which electrically opens the valve and routes the excess pressure between the Turbocharger and the Throttle Body back to the inlet of the Turbocharger, relieving the pressure and preventing compressor surge.


•When Monitored:
With the engine running, the Turbocharger Surge Valve commanded open, and no DTCs pending for the Turbocharger Surge Valve, Wastegate Solenoid, or Boost Pressure Sensor.
•Set Condition:
A fault is set when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detects ten or more surge pulsations.

Possible Causes

• BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR, WIRING, OR RELATED CONNECTORS
• TURBOCHARGER SURGE VALVE, WIRING, OR RELATED COMPONENTS

courtesy of Chrysler LLC

Some info for reference:

P0069-MANIFOLD PRESSURE/BAROMETRIC PRESSURE CORRELATION

• When Monitored:
  Ignition on and during engine cranking with no Manifold Absolute Pressure
  (MAP) Sensor or Barometric Pressure Sensor electrical failures present.
• Set Condition:
  The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) performs the following rationality tests
  to check the Manifold Air Pressure Sensor and Barometric Pressure Sensor: At PCM
  power-up, the manifold pressure is compared with barometric pressure. If the two
  do not correlate and it cannot be determined which sensor is faulty, then this
  code is reported. One Trip Fault. Three good trips to turn off the
  MIL.

Possible Causes
MAP SENSOR
BAROMETRIC SENSOR
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

P006D-00-BAROMETRIC PRESSURE - INLET AIR PRESSURE CORRELATION

When Monitored and Set Conditions

When Monitored:
This diagnostic runs continuously when the following conditions are met:
With the ignition on.
No other IAT DTCs present in the PCM.
Engine speed below 800 rpm.

Set Conditions:
The difference between the Boost Pressure Sensor signal and the Barometric Pressure Sensor signal is 45 hpa (0.65 psi) for 5.0 seconds.
Default Actions:
MIL light will illuminate.

Possible Causes
AIR FILTER
AIR RESTRICTION
HIGH RESISTANCE IN THE (K37) BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT
HIGH RESISTANCE IN THE (K900) BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT
HIGH RESISTANCE IN THE (F856) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT

[Fiat500USA]

Glad to see you got that sorted. I started that post a few hours ago and finally got around to posting it! LOL

[tettes]

That’s typical for a code to remain a while unless removed via a reader. It will usually take a few drive cycles otherwise, or some mileage/time for a repaired code to drop off.

I thought that might be the case but also wasn't confident I hadn't screwed something up haha.

Did you put power to the coils before you discovered the sleeve had broken in the connector? I reckon it read the fault then. Good job sorting it!

Yes, good call. I did start it with 3 coils plugged in.

you might apply some di-electric grease at the connection where you say its chewed up, to keep any potential water out.

Sounds smart. Thank you for the tip!

[tettes]

I did some poking around on the forum for you....

Thank you so much. I did some digging before I posted my question but to be honest I wasn't sure what I was reading with these definitions and explanations. I'm a novice at this stuff!

I really appreciate the support, guys.