Jiri is probably right about the communication back to the car from the heater, but my two cents for basic troubleshooting. First, there is high voltage here so if you're not comfortable working around that don't do it, it can kill you.
Somewhere the high voltage would have to be a connector somewhere on the heater unit. This would probably be no larger than a 12 or 10 gauge equivalent wire (6kw / 300V = 20A, this is very ballpark estimation). The wire will be orange in color almost definitely. Then you would measure two things, one the resistance of the heater element itself. It should be a low resistance value, just a few ohms, but you'd be looking that it isn't open. If it is open then it could either be burned up or there is possibly a thermal fuse in the unit somewhere.
Then, if you could measure for pack voltage at the input connector. Again, this is high voltage so be careful. The communications might not allow it to send power unless all the hand shakes are done happily so this test might not be doable. If you can get voltage there, even for a moment you would at least know that there is not some issue upstream going toward the batter pack.
I should probably get a copy of the service manual to see what it says for instances like this, but that is how I would start trouble shooting knowing the macro level of the system. The heater unit itself is likely very buried in the dash. Heck, getting the cabin filter out alone was quite a hassle. The high voltage electrical connections will very likely be difficult to get to by design.
Dumb question though, a 2015 would likely be at the tail end of its 4 year bumper to bumper warranty right? Or have you gone over the 50k mile portion?
Last edited by Ricksuiter; 10-13-2018 at 11:27 PM.
Unfortunately not. Once you unplug any HV connector HVIL circuit which is used to monitor intact wiring opens and both HV contractors connecting battery to car will disengage.Originally Posted by Ricksuiter
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