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2013 Abarth 5spd transmission leak :( Where is the transmission vent?
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Thread: 2013 Abarth 5spd transmission leak :( Where is the transmission vent?

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    2013 Abarth 5spd transmission leak :( Where is the transmission vent?

    Hi all,

    My first post here - need some help. I'm trying to chase down a transmission leak on my 2013 Abarth 500 (5spd C510).

    It's quite bad now and can't be driven. It's leaking from two points, the input shaft seal, and the left side differential seal plate (driveshaft seal). I put some oil dye in the transmission, and sure enough - I could see some in the bell housing and the driveshaft seal. Luckily the other side is dry, as that seal looks like the entire transmission must be taken apart to fix it.

    Anyhow, I can't seem to find the transmission vent. I'm wondering if the vent is plugged, which would certainly cause a leak as the transmission warms up - but I can't see any reference to the vent in the service manual. Does anyone have any experience with the C510 and can point me where to look? (normally, vents are located at the top, usually on the end of the transmission).

    Last question - I have two approaches to fix this problem, one is to just fix the driveshaft seal leak as this one is quite bad and I can live with the input shaft seal for a while - but if I do pull the transmission, can it be done without removing the fascia? Service manual calls for the rad/intercooler, bumper, AC condenser to be removed.. umm, I don't feel like taking off the rad/AC condenser. Dealer agrees (but they charge you for it, even though they don't do it that way! Calls for 7.5 hours or so labour to do a clutch).

    Can the transmission clear the support extension that the vertical brace attaches to? Or does that part need to come off? (I'll add a pic later). It's quite tight in there!


    Thanks.

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    The transmission CAN be removed without discharging the A/C system or removing the subframe. You need to remove that extra frame support brace, as well as the rearmost shift linkage and the weight that attaches to it to fish it out.

    As far as fixing the leaks go, I fixed my own transmission, but that only had a side cover leak. You're dealing with some sealing joints where you're going to have to get creative with proper gear oil resistant RTV, as I'm fairly sure you can't get the individual seals by themselves. Given the work involved I recommend seeing if you can source a used 2015+ transmission, as they're built better internally with upgraded shift forks and gears.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ice445 View Post
    The transmission CAN be removed without discharging the A/C system or removing the subframe. You need to remove that extra frame support brace, as well as the rearmost shift linkage and the weight that attaches to it to fish it out.

    As far as fixing the leaks go, I fixed my own transmission, but that only had a side cover leak. You're dealing with some sealing joints where you're going to have to get creative with proper gear oil resistant RTV, as I'm fairly sure you can't get the individual seals by themselves. Given the work involved I recommend seeing if you can source a used 2015+ transmission, as they're built better internally with upgraded shift forks and gears.
    ice445, can I ask you for more info on this? i am experiencing the same issue with the same car and trans and have no idea where to start.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Automaton View Post
    ice445, can I ask you for more info on this? i am experiencing the same issue with the same car and trans and have no idea where to start.
    You basically have to get in there and see what I mean when it comes to the crash brace, it's a bolt in piece. You need to pop the ball joint on the drivers side and the tie rod end, and remove the strut and knuckle (hang caliper as far forward near the intercooler as you can), splash shield, the frame brace, the chassis brace, and the linkage weight for the shift cables (and the cables themselves). I recommend removing the bumper and battery and tray as well so you can see what's going on better. Oh, and of course you have to remove the two transmission mounts (the lower one requires unbolting the midpipe), so make SURE the engine is supported on jack stands once you start removing the unit or you'll have a bad time.

    As I said in your original thread, input shaft leaks sometimes result from input shaft bearing failure which you can feel by trying to move the input shaft itself. It should be very rigid. If it's not...well, find another transmission or get a rebuilder on the case because it will just eat your new seal.
    2013 Fiat 500 Abarth in Grigio - Veruca
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  5. The Following User Says Thank You to ice445 For This Useful Post:

    KellyfromVA (04-25-2019)

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    Quote Originally Posted by ice445 View Post
    You basically have to get in there and see what I mean when it comes to the crash brace, it's a bolt in piece. You need to pop the ball joint on the drivers side and the tie rod end, and remove the strut and knuckle (hang caliper as far forward near the intercooler as you can), splash shield, the frame brace, the chassis brace, and the linkage weight for the shift cables (and the cables themselves). I recommend removing the bumper and battery and tray as well so you can see what's going on better. Oh, and of course you have to remove the two transmission mounts (the lower one requires unbolting the midpipe), so make SURE the engine is supported on jack stands once you start removing the unit or you'll have a bad time.

    As I said in your original thread, input shaft leaks sometimes result from input shaft bearing failure which you can feel by trying to move the input shaft itself. It should be very rigid. If it's not...well, find another transmission or get a rebuilder on the case because it will just eat your new seal.
    Hey thank you for the reply. I am currently in the middle of this job, and I've done everything to the point where the trans is completely seperated from the engine EXCEPT I cannot get that ridiculous stud (thats attached to the bellhousing) clear from the engine no matter how hard I try, I'm thinking i'm doing something wrong. I disconnected two of the ball-joint linkages on the very top on the trans (under battery tray) that were next to eachother but if there is another one, I cannot find it. I'm going to call it a night and pick up in the moring to preserve my sanity.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Automaton View Post
    Hey thank you for the reply. I am currently in the middle of this job, and I've done everything to the point where the trans is completely seperated from the engine EXCEPT I cannot get that ridiculous stud (thats attached to the bellhousing) clear from the engine no matter how hard I try, I'm thinking i'm doing something wrong. I disconnected two of the ball-joint linkages on the very top on the trans (under battery tray) that were next to eachother but if there is another one, I cannot find it. I'm going to call it a night and pick up in the moring to preserve my sanity.
    Did you remove that weight that's held on by 3 bolts that extends towards the firewall? If I'm remembering correctly you need to remove that so you can go UP to then go down. Play with all your angles.
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