This is maybe... as in cold days I could get 60 miles if I did not use heater at all (it was cold weather, but enough sunlight to keep warm-ish inside, plus heated seat).
On summer in similar style, I would get roughly 65-70 miles.
Now, mine MAYBE statement means that I am not sure if the difference in distance is due to WINTER wheels, or cold battery, or overall cold conditions (high viscosity of grease in wheel bearings for example).
Yes, I know that battery efficiency drops with temperature, but overall capacity does not change. It just discharges slower. Therefore, I could stipulate that making the battery warm actually does not change anything as you will get the power out anyway. The only improvement would be discharge/recharge current, meaning you will get 85 kW vs 70 kW on a very cold day. Also regen will be better - the max I ever saw was near 70 kW (summer, slowing down from highway speed, but not necessarily on a highway ).
So, having said that - will you get the 5-10%? Maybe... and is it a lot? Depends - some days it would mean a lot, majority of the time - nope. Seeing 50 vs 55 miles on winter... I guess not so much of a difference.
Having 120 vs 132 miles may mean more, yet still is quite slim margin.
But this is only me.
And one more thing.
You may get 10% comparing cold to warm battery, but the heat taken (about 2 kW) would be roughly 4-8 miles of your distance... so in the end your net gain is close to zero.
Current rides: 2019 Chevy Bolt LT, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium
Previous rides: 2014 FIAT 500e, 2016 KIA Forte5 SX 1.6 T-GDI, A/T, 2016 FIAT 500X Trekking Plus AWD, 2015 KIA Forte5 SX 1.6 T-GDI, M/T, and many more...
There's NO discernible battery degradation in my 2013 with 24k miles.
MORE IMPORTANTLY, if it LOOKS like you've lost range, the % gauge we used to trust so much can actually be pretty far off. Another user was recently able to
gain nearly 20% range, just by recalibrating his gauge! (by taking it BELOW 0%, parked by a charger with everything turned on until he got a 12V warning).
I just read this entire thread for the first time, & have a few points to add:
- You don't need an app to check trip power use. You can use the trip gauges &/or the momentary trip summary when you turn the key off.
- A charger power meter doesn't indicate battery capacity, since it doesn't account for waste energy like onboard charger heat & coolant pump.
- I formerly thought the % gauge was pretty accurate. I used it to try to calculate total battery capacity like the posts above. Then I got the free AlfaOBD app & a $17 Konnwei dongle. The car's gauge nearly never matches OBD. At lower SOC, OBD ALWAYS reads higher than the car. Last time I checked, mine showed 18% when the car showed 11%. At "full" charge OBD shows 95% when the car shows 100%.
- "Turtle mode" comes on before the car shows 0%. It will show 0% as soon as it drops below 0.50%, which is good for about half a mile of driving for me. Every sufficiently detailed report I've seen indicates that the car will stop driving when its own possibly-miscalibrated gauge hits what would be 0.00%, regardless of what's really left in the battery. A mis-calibrated gauge blocks some of the battery capacity. Recalibration restores the "lost" range.
- None of the OBD SOH numbers can be trusted at all (including amp-hr cap.). As posted above, some of mine have gone UP over time & mileage. Some read an impossible 100% after over 24k miles & over 6.5 years.
- New usable battery capacity is about 21 or 22kWh, due to Bosch's nice healthy buffers which greatly extend battery life expectancy. Total battery capacity is 24kWh (65.9 AmpH at the nominal 364V spec.)