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Thread: any issues with lowering springs w/ stock struts?

  1. #1
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    any issues with lowering springs w/ stock struts?

    I was told today that the reason for a clunk/rattle noise in the car is caused by my lowering springs being too low and them not being able to tighten the nut enough on the top of the bushing and plate and this is allowing the strut to move anyone ever been told this before?

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    Senior Member Trunkout's Avatar
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    Never had this issue. I've lowered my last four cars with springs.
    Pretty sure manufacturing standards have to be met to avoid this.
    2013 Rosso Abarth 5spd Bianco 17s Cooper Zeon RS3-A
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    Mfg standards asian un quality? or installation standards???

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    Member Jimmy's Avatar
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    Did you replace the strut mounts when you installed the lowering springs? If not, that can cause a clunk.

    I'm on stock struts and madness springs, no clunk
    Last edited by Jimmy; 12-28-2016 at 08:11 PM.
    2015 Abarth 5spd Bianco
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    Senior Member Haring's Avatar
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    I ran mine with Sportlines springs with no issues.
    2016 FIAT 500X Plus - Magnaflow #19279 Exhaust - 18" Matte Black Forgestar F14's - AEM Intake - Madness Lowering Springs (coming soon)

  7. #6
    I'm running a Prokit, which isn't the lowest drop out there, but still there is no problem. I should say that you have to be careful when removing, disassembling and reinstalling the front factory struts. You should not use an impact gun when tightening up the top strut nut.

    This is the caution from factory repair manual:

    CAUTION: The internal hex of the strut rod must be held stationary when removing or installing the nut on the strut rod. If the strut rod spins, internal failure may occur to the strut causing it to no longer function correctly.

    CAUTION: Never use impact or high speed tools to remove or install the strut rod nut. This can cause internal damage to the strut and the strut will no longer function correctly.

    This is not unusual situation for shocks with special valving components. If the strut rod spins it can wreck the internal valving inside a shock. There is a hex cutout at the top of the strut where an allen wrench type tool is inserted to keep the strut rod from turning. Unfortunately, I would say many shops just zip these strut nuts off with an impact gun without caring or knowing they could be screwing something up.

    I worked for a suspension company that imported German shocks and we were educated about this from the headquarters. On those shocks the internal mechanism could actually be unscrewed and fall apart if the strut rod spun fast enough. A lot of shops just don't have the finesse or knowledge it takes to work on sophisticated components.

    I'm not saying that is the problem in your particular case, but it bears mentioning for those reading this and as a point of interest.

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    You need to replace the strut mounts if you did not. They are a one time use and will clunk if reused.

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    Junior Member oldkid6's Avatar
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    I put Eibach Sportlines and replaced the rear shocks with Koni Yellows, no issues at all except I think the rear could be a half inch lower to match the front.

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    Clunk gone..... replaced the strut mounts, jounce bumpers (new and improved style) on both sides went back to stock front springs and I installed my interior rear brace bar I had made which took away 80-90% of the clunk before the dealer worked on it yesterday. NO the car is clunk free rattle free and has a even stance ...... low but a nice stock feel ride to it....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fiat500USA View Post
    I'm running a Prokit, which isn't the lowest drop out there, but still there is no problem. I should say that you have to be careful when removing, disassembling and reinstalling the front factory struts. You should not use an impact gun when tightening up the top strut nut.

    This is the caution from factory repair manual:

    CAUTION: The internal hex of the strut rod must be held stationary when removing or installing the nut on the strut rod. If the strut rod spins, internal failure may occur to the strut causing it to no longer function correctly.

    CAUTION: Never use impact or high speed tools to remove or install the strut rod nut. This can cause internal damage to the strut and the strut will no longer function correctly.

    This is not unusual situation for shocks with special valving components. If the strut rod spins it can wreck the internal valving inside a shock. There is a hex cutout at the top of the strut where an allen wrench type tool is inserted to keep the strut rod from turning. Unfortunately, I would say many shops just zip these strut nuts off with an impact gun without caring or knowing they could be screwing something up.

    I worked for a suspension company that imported German shocks and we were educated about this from the headquarters. On those shocks the internal mechanism could actually be unscrewed and fall apart if the strut rod spun fast enough. A lot of shops just don't have the finesse or knowledge it takes to work on sophisticated components.

    I'm not saying that is the problem in your particular case, but it bears mentioning for those reading this and as a point of interest.
    What happens when you spin the rod is that the piston inside will also rotate. Having the piston rotate will wear out the seals and could cause damage to the piston itself. The shim stacks and internal holes for the piston will remain unharmed (valving).


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