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Thread: Aftermarket Amp install with Alpine stereo system

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Charlotte, NC
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    Aftermarket Amp install with Alpine stereo system

    Just wanted to a quick write-up about my amp install I did last night.

    After removing driver, passenger, and rear seats, I realized there is a much easier way of wiring an aftermarket amp (say a mono amp to power a subwoofer) into the stock system without having to get rid of the factory stereo or factory amp, and it even eliminates the need for running a wire to the battery.

    Tools/materials needed:
    Amplifier - I used an old Kenwood class D mono I had from a previous system
    Line out converter:
    Amp kit:
    Wire cutters
    Wire strippers
    Crimp caps or some other connector for splicing/connecting wires


    To start, remove the wiring harnesses from the amp. If you don't know where the amp is, it is in the trunk on the right side behind the plastic cover. Pop this cover off. I chose to remove the bracket the amp is on, just to make getting to the wiring harness easier.

    The only harness you'll need to worry about is the larger one with the white clip.
    On this wiring harness you will see a whole bunch of wires. The ones you'll need are:
    Red/white (thick) - this will be your power/battery wire
    Red/yellow - remote wire
    Orange/brown - left rear positive
    Orange/blue - left rear negative
    Green/red - right rear positive
    Green/white - right rear negative

    (I guess the days of red=positive, black=negative are over)

    Following the instructions on the line out converter, connect the wires of the LOC to the wires listed above.
    I started with the right rear positive. Cut the wire and strip it. Now twist those wires together with the correct wire on the LOC. I chose to use a crimp cap to secure the wires, then wrapped in electrical tape.
    Do this for the remaining speaker wires (orange/blue-left rear negative, green/red-right rear positive, and green/white - right rear negative.)

    Once all the wires are spliced and connected to the LOC, you can now connect your RCA cable from the LOC to your amp (this is the red/white like you would see on an old TV) In the amp kit I used, this is a blue wire with two male connections on each end.

    Now connect the power/battery wire. To do this take the battery wire that comes with the kit (it was red in mine) and connect it to the red/white wire on the wiring harness. I did this the same way, cutting/splicing/twisting/crimping.

    With an amp wire you want to have a fuse/fuse holder. My kit came with one. I'm not really an electrician so I don't exactly know the purpose of this, but every system I've had has had one, so there must be a reason. It is best to have it close to the wiring harness, so it can be hidden behind the amp cover when you put everything back together.

    Once the fuse is connected, run the power wire from the other end of the fuse to your aftermarket amp.

    Now connect the remote wire. The one with my kit was a thin blue wire. This wire gets cut/spliced/crimped to the red/yellow wire on the wiring harness. Then connect the other end of the blue wire to the aftermarket amp.

    Lastly you will need to ground your aftermarket amp. To make things easy, I just decided to use one of the screw posts that the metal harness for the factory amp screws onto. I used a ring terminal to do this. Connect the other end to the aftermarket amp.

    As far as wiring a subwoofer, that all depends where you want the sub. I didn't want a booming system, just something to add some bass, so I'm adding a small 8" under the drivers seat. I ran speaker wire from the amp in the back, under the rear seat, along the left side under the plastic trim pieces, and then under the carpet to the middle of the drivers seat (there is an existing cutout for another wire there.)

    I am building the subwoofer box, so I have yet to test it. But the amp turns on and seems to be working. Since I am running a small sub that won't draw a lot of power, there shouldn't be any problem with power loss. However, if you were running a system over 1000 watts, it may be better to run the amp wire to the battery, instead of sharing a connection with the existing amp. This is just a good option for someone looking to add a small subwoofer.

    Once the subwoofer is built, I will post the results, and any issues that I ran into.
    I hope this makes sense, but if it doesn't, please comment or message me and I can probably clarify things.

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  3. #2
    Senior Member ivmill's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
    Urbanna, Va
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    Definitely subscribed. Thanks for the killer write up! I've been wanting to do this for a long time now but haven't wanted to go through all the hassle of wiring it up through the firewall and tucking everything. I'm looking forward to hearing how it all turns out.

    '13 Grigio/Nero Abarth: RRM Ultimate Tuner | Magneti Marelli Power Pedal | R3T v2 Intake | TMC Decat | Forge BOV | ATM Boost Gauge | Craven Short Throw Shifter | TWM Shift Knob | Fortune Auto Prototype Coilovers | Schroth Harness | CPR 4 Bar X-Brace | CPR 28MM Sway Bar | VVME HID Kit
    '66 Mustang Fastback GT
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  4. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Charlotte, NC
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    So far everything seems to be working fine. All speakers (tweeter, door speakers, and rear speakers) seem to be functioning fine with no noticeable loss of power. Have yet to hook up the subwoofer. More to come.

  5. #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Charlotte, NC
    Thanked 42 Times in 30 Posts
    I decided to wire the kenwood amp directly to the battery (instead of pulling power from the factory amp). This write-up is great for showing exactly how to run wire from the battery into the cabin:

    I ran the wire thru the grommet to the battery and connected it, adding the fuse/fuse holder a few inches of power wire off of the battery. On the inside, I removed the plastic trim piece just on the inside of the door (runs from the hood release latch to the back seat. There is one phillips screw and one fastener (use flat head to remove), then it's just carefully pulling until all the clips release. I ran the wire behind the pedal assembly, underneath the fuse box cover, along the side of the car so it would be underneath this plastic trim piece, and underneath the back seat.

    The subwoofer box is now complete, and everything is hooked up and sounds great. There was a little sound "inconsistency" (it felt like all the highs were coming from the right side of the car, and the lows from the left) so I adjusted my stereo to these settings and it sounds perfect:
    L +2
    F +2
    Midrange +3
    Treble +3
    Lows/Bass +1

    This gives good sound, not too bass heavy. Overall very pleased with the new setup.

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