Full stock 500/Abarth NA light list, and what the compatible LED types

[Mangavideo]

I went Lasfit T10 Amber Front, Red Back and got creative on the Turning Signals and went Green

If you are talking about the front fender Markers, they are not hard. Remove a few Fender well screws along the front edge, enough to allow you to pull it back and it pops right out. If you have an electric driver/drill, it can be done in about 20Min

[RostHaus]

i meant these.

https://www.amazon.com/11-16-Helix-Fender-Marker-Lights/dp/B0762954R4

[Mangavideo]

i meant these.
https://www.amazon.com/11-16-Helix-F.../dp/B0762954R4

Go in behind the rear portion of the fenderwell. Don't try prying them out from the front without releasing the tabs from the back at the same time. I tried that, driver side came in 3 seconds, I wrestled with the passenger side for 3 hours. Luckily I didn't scar the panel. Days later I saw a how-to and it's easily accessible behind the fenderwell.

BTW- They're a lot cheaper at 500madness. Got mine for around $25

[jmill22]

Hi,
I'm new here. Has anyone had any luck with led rear turn signals and brake lights.
Thanks

[RostHaus]

I haven't attempted the rears, beyond the reverse lights. My plan is to just add the Euro 16'+ refresh taillights, which are already LED.

[RostHaus]

Go in behind the rear portion of the fenderwell. Don't try prying them out from the front without releasing the tabs from the back at the same time. I tried that, driver side came in 3 seconds, I wrestled with the passenger side for 3 hours. Luckily I didn't scar the panel. Days later I saw a how-to and it's easily accessible behind the fenderwell.

BTW- They're a lot cheaper at 500madness. Got mine for around $25

Thanks for the pointers

[jmill22]

I haven't attempted the rears, beyond the reverse lights. My plan is to just add the Euro 16'+ refresh taillights, which are already LED.

Thank for the info. I was thinking of doing the same thing for the rears.

[Dernt]

Sorry to pull a Lazarus on this thread but I need an answer. I just took a run through this entire thread and didn't find what I wanted.

My windows are tinted at 10% and my tails are also tinted so backing into my driveway at night requires me to lower the window to see where I'm going. I bought a set of Auxito 921 LED bulbs and installed one bulb on the LH tail to see if there would be any codes or problems and everything was good. I installed the RH bulb, put car in reverse and neither of the bulbs would light up. Turned the bulbs around even though it says they are not polarity-specific and still got nothing. As a test, I put one of the standard 921 bulbs back in the RH tail and both lit up (one LED, one halogen). I left the car in reverse, reinstalled the LED in the RH tail and they both lit up. Put the car in neutral then back in reverse and neither bulb would light up. The only way to get both bulbs to work is either two halogens or one halogen and one LED. Obviously, my question is, why is it doing this? I think I had read somewhere on here or another site that the reverse lights require a resistor on just one of the bulbs. Is this true and, if so, what resistor would I need?

[Hermiabarth]

I assume both bulbs are on the same circuit and one halogen provides enough resistance for the circuit to operate (makes sense, otherwise if one bulb burned out, the other would also go out). There must be some generic info about resistors to add when swapping to LED tail lights. I put the gen 4 euro tails on my Abarth - they came with a resistor, but I have no ideal of the spec. I suppose you could measure the resistance of a halogen bulb and select a resistor of the same value.

[Dernt]

I assume both bulbs are on the same circuit and one halogen provides enough resistance for the circuit to operate (makes sense, otherwise if one bulb burned out, the other would also go out). There must be some generic info about resistors to add when swapping to LED tail lights. I put the gen 4 euro tails on my Abarth - they came with a resistor, but I have no ideal of the spec. I suppose you could measure the resistance of a halogen bulb and select a resistor of the same value.

But why would both LED bulbs stay lit if I start with a halogen and swap it while hot? What you're saying makes sense as far as resistance but as soon as I swap out the halogen for the LED while it is powered on, it should theoretically change the resistance and cause both bulbs to go out. I was going to get the Gen 4 tails at one point but I decided to "blackout" my entire car and I couldn't justify tinting an expensive set of tails but I really do like their look.

[Hermiabarth]

But why would both LED bulbs stay lit if I start with a halogen and swap it while hot? What you're saying makes sense as far as resistance but as soon as I swap out the halogen for the LED while it is powered on, it should theoretically change the resistance and cause both bulbs to go out. I was going to get the Gen 4 tails at one point but I decided to "blackout" my entire car and I couldn't justify tinting an expensive set of tails but I really do like their look.

Maybe because once the circuit is "latched" on, it stays on, but, when it's cold (off) it won't close the circuit unless sufficient resistance is detected - just my speculation; maybe an electrical guru will chime in.

[Dernt]

Did a little more research and found a video from Diode Dynamics that answered my question. Paul from DD was a member of a car forum I used to belong to years ago and he makes great stuff. I also believe he is a sponsor or vendor on this forum.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojB8G5evx6s

[Dernt]

After a lot of online researching, talking to automotive techs, electrician friends, and months of trial and error, plus being constantly questioned by my next-door neighbor (who has a 1000+HP Mustang drag car in his garage) about why my front bumper is always off my car, I have finally found a possible answer to the annoying issue of LED DRLs on our car. Everyone has tried different bulbs, with or without CANbus, with or without resistors, etc. yet it seems no one found a solution. Well, I did (at least, it works on my car). Having changed my headlights and reverse lights to LEDs and using resistors, I knew the same could be done with the DRLs. Now, I have not changed my turn signals (FR or RR), brake lights, or side markers to LED (don't see the point of it) so don't ask. Here is what I did and the links to the bulbs and resistors I used. For some reason, the link for the DRL resistor keeps referring to 25w resistors but this is wrong, they need to be 50w resistors. Otherwise, you will get no light.

Headlight bulb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Reverse bulb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
DRL bulb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Resistor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HGKY16...roduct_details

20210808_154136.jpg20210808_154156.jpg
Wiring is simple:
1. Drill 2 holes into the lamp housing cover (3/32").
2. Use 16g wire to add length to the resistor leads. You need to do this because you have to be able to reach the radiator support (or any metal) to mount the resistors. They will melt any plastic due to the heat they generate.
3. Tap 1 resistor lead into either the green (+) or orange (+) wire from the socket.
4. Tap the other resistor lead into the black (-) wire from the socket.
5. There is no need to tap into the other (+) wire. Not sure why but if you do, it won't work.
6. The taps and extra wire will tuck inside the lamp housing in a small open area, allowing you to completely close the cover and maintain the waterproof seal.
7. Seal the holes where the wires go into the cover. I used liquid tape but I'm sure black RTV will do the same.
8. Reinstall the lights.
9. Enjoy.

The headlights were basically Plug-n-Play and the entire thing, wiring, resistor, and fan, all tucked into lamp housing perfectly. No drilling, no modification at all.
The reverse lights only require 1 resistor (I installed mine on the right) and I used the Sylvania LED Load Equalizer resistor set, Part #: LOADRSL.BX2. Can usually be found in any auto parts store, about $15US. The kit includes 2 resistors with leads, 4 zip ties, and 4 red wire taps (or connectors, as they call them). I'm not sure what the wattage is but it has 12V 6ohm stamped on it.

Hopefully, this helps anyone that wants to make this conversion. Overall, it took me about 3 hours to swap once I had the right combination. I also tinted the lenses so that added to my working time, waiting for them to dry. Start to finish on this, hopefully, last attempt was nearly 2 days but that included the tinting, having to drive to the store to grab some needed parts, a slight rain delay, and the usual Sunday morning slow-to-get-started routine.

[Dernt]

After re-installing the lights and waiting until dark, it seems my solution is not 100%. The DRLs do work but they are not very bright so I'm guessing one of two things: the 50w resistor is clamping down too much and I need to switch it to the 25w or I need to do what I should have done in the first place; install the bulbs without resistors to see if they work. I didn't try this because I assumed it wouldn't work. I will update once I have tried both options, most likely in a week.