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Thread: 2013 Abarth - Shifter cable bushing fails at transmission

  1. #131
    Enthusiastically Slow Lifetime Member Ando's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnTheFenceAbarth View Post
    Add me to the list of people who have lost their shifter linkage mid-driving. Had to limp home in 3rd and 4th.
    Bummer!

    I'm lucky enough to have never had that happen to me. Though I did have a fun time helping flag a family friend through intersections when his motorcycle got stuck in 5th gear. Glad to hear you were alright and that the fix will be covered.

  2. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ando View Post
    Bummer!

    I'm lucky enough to have never had that happen to me. Though I did have a fun time helping flag a family friend through intersections when his motorcycle got stuck in 5th gear. Glad to hear you were alright and that the fix will be covered.
    Hopefully not too far; don't want to add a new clutch to the repair bill.
    2013 500c Abarth - phase 3
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    Enthusiastically Slow Lifetime Member Ando's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by texanbrit View Post
    Hopefully not too far; don't want to add a new clutch to the repair bill.
    We rode ahead of him and got everyone's attention at intersections so he could blow through around 35 mph minimum. We thought he fell asleep or lost his mind when he blew the first one but we caught up and played charades. This was at the end of a 2000 mi trip, about 5 miles from home. Much further out and we would have called him a cab and waved goodbye. All in all it wasn't a big deal in suburban MN, but a pretty memorable end to a boring highway cruise.

  4. #134
    Member OnTheFenceAbarth's Avatar
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    My issue was repaired with a new shifter linkage assembly, but I fear there's something else wrong with my car. It is hard to describe, but prior to the assembly failing and losing all but 3rd and 4th gears, it felt as though the shifting and/or drivetrain had slack. Gear engagement felt delayed, the engagement of the shifter wasn't difficult but it also wasn't smooth, and the car felt like it was bogging down after shifting into gears from time to time. It's something that made me think there was a clutch issue but both the studio and a personal friend who is a Chrysler tech both said the clutch was fine.

    Fast forward to picking up my car post-linkage-replacement, and every bit of slack was gone. It was like the drivetrain and clutch and transmission were back to brand new, everything was engaging perfectly, and I was no longer left feeling like I was fumbling to get the car to run smoothly. Now about 3-4 weeks following the repair, my car is back to feeling like crap.

    Any thoughts?
    2013 Bianco Abarth Eggbert - EuroCompulsion v2.1 intake w/ ram boot, Sila titanium turbo blanket

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    Junior Member DriverOne's Avatar
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    So, I purchased the bushing kit with the two separate-sized bushings. Are the bushings necessary to be replaced at both ends of the cable?
    There's a fine line between breathtaking innovation and, "that's the stupidest thing I've ever seen"!

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    Enthusiastically Slow Lifetime Member Ando's Avatar
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    Not unless you are spraying salt water on your center console I say no! The exception to this rule would be if you bought the super stiff bushings and are looking for an ultra snappy/notchy feel. Then you might want to do both ends.

    Edit:
    It occurs to me you might mean "do I need to replace both ends on the transmission side?" In which case I would say yes, you already have the part, you already have access, it's a little more work but it's good preventative maintenance for a known troublesome component.
    Last edited by Ando; 07-23-2018 at 10:24 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DriverOne View Post
    So, I purchased the bushing kit with the two separate-sized bushings. Are the bushings necessary to be replaced at both ends of the cable?
    Recommended but not required. The bigger sized bushing is very well protected from road spray and other factors that cause the side to side one to decay and thus lasts much longer.
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    All right--I got in my 2013 Abarth this week, started it up and tried to put it into reverse, and couldn't. The shift lever was super loose--moves freely in every direction (up and down, side to side, diagonally). So that's... not ideal. I did some Googling and found this thread, and it sounded like this could be my problem. So I pulled the battery and removed the battery tray to get a look at where the shift cable attaches to the transmission, and sure enough, the bushing has failed and it's completely off (see photo, below).

    I ordered the FM1KIT2 from BushingFix.com, which arrived in the mail very promptly. But I have some questions. It looks like there used to be an illustrated guide to doing this on the second page of this thread, but the images are all broken now, so that's not much help. BushingFix has instructions for getting the new bushing onto the ring, once you've removed it from the cable. I'm assuming that removal works like this:




    Yes, there's a lot of corrosion in there. Welcome to upstate New York.

    BushingFix's instructions for getting the new bushing into the ring are pretty clear, but I'm not quite understanding how to re-attach to the transmission. I mean, I push the bushing on, but does the shift stick inside the car have to be in a particular position when I do it? I left the car in 1st when I last parked it, so presumably that's what it's in now. Do I try to hold the stick in roughly that position, and then reattach the cable? (I'd probably need someone to hold it, if so, because it currently just flops around loosely.) Or will it just naturally be in the right position once I've re-attached it?

    I see a post on page 12 of this thread about adjusting the cable, but the attached directions are badly translated or badly written, because they make no sense...

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    Quote Originally Posted by bsones View Post
    All right--I got in my 2013 Abarth this week, started it up and tried to put it into reverse, and couldn't. The shift lever was super loose--moves freely in every direction (up and down, side to side, diagonally). So that's... not ideal. I did some Googling and found this thread, and it sounded like this could be my problem. So I pulled the battery and removed the battery tray to get a look at where the shift cable attaches to the transmission, and sure enough, the bushing has failed and it's completely off (see photo, below).

    I ordered the FM1KIT2 from BushingFix.com, which arrived in the mail very promptly. But I have some questions. It looks like there used to be an illustrated guide to doing this on the second page of this thread, but the images are all broken now, so that's not much help. BushingFix has instructions for getting the new bushing onto the ring, once you've removed it from the cable. I'm assuming that removal works like this:




    Yes, there's a lot of corrosion in there. Welcome to upstate New York.

    BushingFix's instructions for getting the new bushing into the ring are pretty clear, but I'm not quite understanding how to re-attach to the transmission. I mean, I push the bushing on, but does the shift stick inside the car have to be in a particular position when I do it? I left the car in 1st when I last parked it, so presumably that's what it's in now. Do I try to hold the stick in roughly that position, and then reattach the cable? (I'd probably need someone to hold it, if so, because it currently just flops around loosely.) Or will it just naturally be in the right position once I've re-attached it?

    I see a post on page 12 of this thread about adjusting the cable, but the attached directions are badly translated or badly written, because they make no sense...
    Yeah, the instructions made no sense to me either. Don't worry about adjustment. Just remove the bushing loop, press in the new bushing, remove the old bushing from the linkage (i've found through doing a few of these that a propane torch applied directly to the green center for about 15-30 seconds makes removal super easy), and then reinstall the loop and snap the bushing onto the linkage. I don't think it being in gear matters much as long as you aren't too crazy caveman with the force you use to remove the old bushing, because if you're too rough with it you can push it into a different gear. But basically there's no alignment or anything special required here, its just a direct replacement. If you want to be extra sure, zip tie the loop to the ball end of the linkage and put the car in neutral.
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  12. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by ice445 View Post
    (i've found through doing a few of these that a propane torch applied directly to the green center for about 15-30 seconds makes removal super easy)
    !!!!! I wish I would have thought of this !!!!!

    As far as alignment goes the common practice is to count how many rotations it takes to disassemble the cable end or measure the linear engagement and reinstall it the same way. I don't think this has been mentioned yet. This is assuming your gears were in the right place before this broke. I must say that corrosion looks even be worse than mine!

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