Adjustable torsion rear torsion bar

[cy-clone33]

OK kind community, we all agree that we need an affordable rear torsion bar that serves various needs. Factors are torsional rigidity, WEIGHT adjustability

We did this in a very simple way in karting and I see NO REASON it wont work in this application, first issue is material cost, WE can achieve the same result by design instead of spending are $$ on exotic materials

WEIGHT, again design over mass

adjustability thru design

here is the simple explanation of how it works, the current bars are turned to a shoulder for X distance, then you have the major diameter of the bar torsion is controlled by diameter and the length of the center section

A 1in diameter bar turned at a TAPER to the largest diameter, NOW we have a more rigid bar and have removed the weakest point and we are UNDER the 28MM diameter thus less weight and more rigid

In the center of the bar at his largest diameter of 1 in ( section between 16 and 20 wide ) its milled flat on 2 sides ( like a wrench flat ) now when the flats are parallel to the ground the bar is at its designed weakest point, when the flats are vertical its at its strongest point, Now If you have the need and smarts you can ROTATE the bar to the desired stiffness thus ADJUSTABLE

I have a stock ABARTH bar headed my way If you need exact science info I can measure its defection at a given weight and compare it to the 1" bar and get a degree of stiffness compared to each other

This style of torsion control has been used in karting for the last 10 years, its very noticeable when you rotate the rear bar which is what controls WHEN and HOW much weight gets transfered to the opposite side front

round vs hex, personaly I think that's just voodoo, you could make the argument that depending on how you locate the HEX bar you would have some measure of adjustability but it would be very slight if any at all because of it having 6 sides as apposed to 2...

I can produce a powder coated rear torsion bar in ANY DIAMETER HEX OR ROUND for $135, standard design ( like whats available now ) or machined as stated above

That is with knurled ends, American steel ( nothing from asia or the indies etc )

[shadowshaggy]

I don't care about weight, but would like one that I can adjust to super stiff. So what's the verdict on that?

[cy-clone33]

super stiff isn't a measurement,, Ill measure the deflection of a stock bar, post the results and compare those numbers to varies diameter material and YOU the public can make your decision from there

No claim of proprietory material etc just real numbers to compare,, I would say the you can get a bar that's too stiff could effect the turning ability

But they are already out there a: 28mm bar currently the heaviest so the next logical step would be a 30mm bar,, AGAIN I can make the current 28mm bar stiffer by the method I mentioned above, 22mm to mount in the brackets and then cut at a taper to the largest diameter this will be much more rigid ..

[jwgrigio]

22mm to mount in the brackets and then cut at a taper to the largest diameter this will be much more rigid ..

Could the 22mm sections be long enough for an easier install like the RRM bar and still be stiffer? What is the ETA for these to come to market?

[cy-clone33]

yes they can be extended 1/2" each end ,, these are ready to be made now, no minimum order

[jwgrigio]

yes they can be extended 1/2" each end

I meant extended toward the center so I don't have to take wheel or bracket off. I'm lazy

[cy-clone33]

you don't take anything off to install the bar as they are now, you remove one side then clear the bracket and pull it out ofthe other side, no brackets to remove no tires need to come off ?

[Tweak]

you don't take anything off to install the bar as they are now, you remove one side then clear the bracket and pull it out ofthe other side, no brackets to remove no tires need to come off ?

WAY easier if you pull the tire.

[jwgrigio]

I had read/watched the install instructions for both available bars and that was the big difference in the two.

[cy-clone33]

WAY easier if you pull the tire.

I go with TWEAK on this one.. you guys have to remember, it isn't always easy , your getting a good part and a considerable discount compared to the others on the market

I cant modify or redesign the wheel and still make a profit, there is NO mark up on my parts, material, my machine rental , and my time and that's it, I have been working 10 to 12 hrs a day to manage these items along with my regular machining job

[Tweak]

I go with TWEAK on this one.. you guys have to remember, it isn't always easy , your getting a good part and a considerable discount compared to the others on the market

I cant modify or redesign the wheel and still make a profit, there is NO mark up on my parts, material, my machine rental , and my time and that's it, I have been working 10 to 12 hrs a day to manage these items along with my regular machining job

Greatly appreciate that you have offered and are bringing such quality products to the community without the high price tag. Overhead is a lot different for different vendors and therefore costs are varied, it is great to have options! On the Abarth the brackets can be a bit difficult to wrestle with but every car varies, some report it being easy and others mention it being really hard so pulling a wheel will give more area to work with making it easier to get in there, always more than one way to do things but usually not many as the easiest ways.