Intercooler options

[Chico Valdez]

Well, that's my game plan.

Ah! Gotcha! I must've missed that li'l concept somehow! Not the first time, probably won't be the last! Lol!
Do carry on!

[BecauseRacecar]

It's normal to build less boost in cold temperatures. Colder air = denser air, so you don't need as much. A 3psi difference isn't bad.

Thanks for the re-assurance! I feel better now.

The more I think about it, the more I agree.


On takeoff, our turbine N1's are only 90% or so in the winter, and in the summer they're up to 116+%.
We're limited by thrust on the fan bearing, not speed of the turbine (until 118% or so). And it's because of air density.

I suppose my car's turbo would be the same. I guess the ECU is just trying to hit a target torque/hp value, just like the jet's thrust computer/FADEC calculating for set power.

Sorry about the derp!


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Has anyone actually pressure tested the system for leaks?

I built a pressurization tester that hooks onto the turbo inlet. Standard Schrader valve for hooking up a bike pump.

When it warms up outside, I'm going to pinch/cap the boost bypass (evap emissions system) and pressurize the system (goal is 20~30 PSI) to check everything out.

Will report back with results...


EDIT: IF anyone wants to borrow said tester/adapter, just PM me and I'll mail it to ya.

[AudiGuy]

Thanks for the re-assurance! I feel better now.

The more I think about it, the more I agree.


On takeoff, our turbine N1's are only 90% or so in the winter, and in the summer they're up to 116+%.
We're limited by thrust on the fan bearing, not speed of the turbine (until 118% or so). And it's because of air density.

I suppose my car's turbo would be the same. I guess the ECU is just trying to hit a target torque/hp value, just like the jet's thrust computer/FADEC calculating for set power.

Sorry about the derp!


----------




I built a pressurization tester that hooks onto the turbo inlet. Standard Schrader valve for hooking up a bike pump.

When it warms up outside, I'm going to pinch/cap the boost bypass (evap emissions system) and pressurize the system (goal is 20~30 PSI) to check everything out.

Will report back with results...


EDIT: IF anyone wants to borrow said tester/adapter, just PM me and I'll mail it to ya.

Colder denser air will always be more efficient and make more power. I call it turbo weather.

Unfortunately I don think your Schrader valve is going to work. The problem is a lack of volume through such a small orifice. By the time air starts leaking through the valve train, you will have lost most of you pressure. What you need is an air chuck with a valve. That way you can get enough air in the system to build pressure. When I first started pressure testing the TT, I found this out. Couldn't figure out why I wasn't able to pressurize the system. After I made a better tester, it was a piece of cake. Also, take note of your PCV routing. Your crankcase and valve cover breathers should be plugged while testing. Otherwise you will blow the caught oil and water vapors back into your intake track. If you do it without blocking them off, you will crap your pants when you see the giant ploom of smoke out of the tail pipes. As a general rule of thumb, raise your pressure gradually. Big leaks should be the first thing you notice. As for a target max pressure, aim for a pressure just barely above the max output of the turbo. That way you have thoroughly tested it in its effective range.

[BecauseRacecar]

I learned so much in this post, that I'm just gonna leave the pressure tester alone for awhile.
A long while.

Thanks!

Colder denser air will always be more efficient and make more power. I call it turbo weather.

Unfortunately I don think your Schrader valve is going to work. The problem is a lack of volume through such a small orifice. By the time air starts leaking through the valve train, you will have lost most of you pressure. What you need is an air chuck with a valve. That way you can get enough air in the system to build pressure. When I first started pressure testing the TT, I found this out. Couldn't figure out why I wasn't able to pressurize the system. After I made a better tester, it was a piece of cake. Also, take note of your PCV routing. Your crankcase and valve cover breathers should be plugged while testing. Otherwise you will blow the caught oil and water vapors back into your intake track. If you do it without blocking them off, you will crap your pants when you see the giant ploom of smoke out of the tail pipes. As a general rule of thumb, raise your pressure gradually. Big leaks should be the first thing you notice. As for a target max pressure, aim for a pressure just barely above the max output of the turbo. That way you have thoroughly tested it in its effective range.

[AudiGuy]

I learned so much in this post, that I'm just gonna leave the pressure tester alone for awhile.
A long while.

Thanks!

Don't be intimidated by it. It's a must

Here's what I use.







It's a plastic cap from the plumbing section at Home Depot with a threaded air valve. Simple on and off turn of the valve. I use JB welds "water weld" to seal up the cracks and threads. It's important to keep an air tight setup. It's hard to hear leaks when your equipment makes noise. I try to make it a habit to pressure test the intake any time I do something with the plumbing. It's a good way to know that you are leak free. This platform is new so there arent too many issues yet. But plastic hoses and lines turn to crap under the stress of fluctuating boost pressures and high turbo engine bay heat. Small frame turbos produce a LOT of heat. I'm not looking forward to having to replace oem stuff on this car. But it's inevitable.

[lenswerks]

I learned so much in this post, that I'm just gonna leave the pressure tester alone for awhile.
A long while.

Thanks!

If you do a test be aware of safety for you and your engine, don't test to 30PSI - you don't need to go that high and get a proper tester so you don't put your eye out.

http://www.turboboostleaktesters.com...101/Categories

[BecauseRacecar]

Don't be intimidated by it. It's a must

Here's what I use.
[...]

Mine's the same setup, but without the air chuck [and a schrader valve instead].
EDIT: And using a silicone coupler of course to attach directly to the turbo inlet..


IMG_0322.jpg

IMG_0323.jpg


Did some more thinking, which may be dangerous:

I was under the impression that ALL the cylinder intake valves are closed when the engine is not running, due to the MultiAir being depressurized.[?]
And doesn't the PCV/crankcase/etc all vent upstream into the inlet of the turbo [?], into the intake, which I would be disconnecting anyway [?].

I'll need to do more research. I'm quite grateful you caught me before things got hilarious, though..


Anyways, it seems like I'll need to get my hands on a compressor of sorts. With an LP regulator. Maybe Home Depot rents those.

Much of my experience is with systems running at 120-5000 PSI [scuba regulator repair/tuning, paintball markers, aircraft O2 systems, and aircraft hydraulic systems], so I'm re-learning some things!

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Lenswerks - Thanks for the link! The one I built is exactly like theirs, silicone couplers, clamps, PVC end cap... but with the wrong valve. Need a chuck fitting. So I'll have to fix that.

[AudiGuy]

Mine's the same setup, but without the air chuck [and a schrader valve instead].
EDIT: And using a silicone coupler of course to attach directly to the turbo inlet..


IMG_0322.jpg

IMG_0323.jpg


Did some more thinking, which may be dangerous:

I was under the impression that ALL the cylinder intake valves are closed when the engine is not running, due to the MultiAir being depressurized.[?]
And doesn't the PCV/crankcase/etc all vent upstream into the inlet of the turbo [?], into the intake, which I would be disconnecting anyway [?].

I'll need to do more research. I'm quite grateful you caught me before things got hilarious, though..


Anyways, it seems like I'll need to get my hands on a compressor of sorts. With an LP regulator. Maybe Home Depot rents those.

Much of my experience is with systems running at 120-5000 PSI [scuba regulator repair/tuning, paintball markers, aircraft O2 systems, and aircraft hydraulic systems], so I'm re-learning some things!

----------

Lenswerks - Thanks for the link! The one I built is exactly like theirs, silicone couplers, clamps, PVC end cap... but with the wrong valve. Need a chuck fitting. So I'll have to fix that.

No, not all valves should be closed (unless there is some sort of magic I am unfamiliar with).

The crankcase gases will come from your crank case and your valve cover and will be routed back to your intake (and possibly your oil pan depending on how the system is run). The force that pulls that nastiness is vacuum created by the engine. You run a catch can in between your crank case and your intake in order to allow the vacuum from the turbo to help pull the gases and water vapors into the catch can. Ideally all of that junk would be caught in a can and dumped.

[Duality29]

I’ve got one question on intercoolers.
Does anybody have experience with the Black Tube and Fin intercooler from Wagner Tuning?
It seems they have a good reputation within the Euro community and was wondering about that specific intercooler.
Any input would be appreciated!

[aelfwyne]

I’ve got one question on intercoolers.
Does anybody have experience with the Black Tube and Fin intercooler from Wagner Tuning?
It seems they have a good reputation within the Euro community and was wondering about that specific intercooler.
Any input would be appreciated!

Bryan NGEN Customs & Performance might know, he's a Fiat vendor, also active on these forums. I've noticed they have added the Wagner intercooler to their lineup so he may know someone who has installed it.