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Thread: How To: Evaporative Re-Route and Boost Leak Fix

  1. #11
    Senior Member musicsurf's Avatar
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    I strayed from Ryephile's instructions a little bit after I had to switch back to stock to bring my car in for a P0456 code. So far it is working exactly the same as it did originally. The hose that you are to cut loops from the Tee and ends at the quick connect for the long hose that is plumbed into charge pipe. That loopy hose contains the check valve that you are to reuse. Now, the hose that the loopy hose tee's into also contains a check valve albeit a larger one. As the hose heads to the drivers side it connects to a rubber hose and then terminates onto what I can only imagine is a valve. I replaced this entire hose with the same hose (fuel hose) used to make the wye. I had already hacked up the original hose so didn't have any problem scavenging the check valve from it. I am going to be doing this on someone else's car and already purchased 2 kynar check valves so there will be no cutting involved and the hoses will be saved just in case it ever needs to be returned to stock for warranty reasons. The check valves I purchased have similar specs to the Boomba, just a little weaker. Like I said, I haven't had any issues but the fuel hose doesn't like to bend perfectly to be plugged into the other valve so the original pre-formed hose could be reused with a 3/8 to 3/8 connector to join the two hoses together. On mine I also did away with the hard emissions line running to the intake but scavenged the quick connect to make removing the hose from from the intake easier. I routed it a little differently from stock but it is working flawlessly. I had an issue with my car and had to bring it in under warranty soon after I purchased it. I knew they were going to have to dig around to fix the problem so ordered new hoses to return it to stock. The long hose running from the charge pipe took FOREVER because it had to be made. That is the main reason I devised a way to do the reroute without any cutting. One thing to note if you are going to remove the hose in order to see where to cut or if you are going to replace it completely. There is another hose back there that you leave alone in the reroute. It does make it easier to get to the clamp if you unclip this hose from where it is held in place. There is a very small length and diameter silicone hose that runs vertically from this hose to another purge valve. It easily comes off and the only way to tell if it did is by feeling. Make sure you check and if it has come off, obviously put it back on.
    Last edited by musicsurf; 10-30-2013 at 11:44 AM.
    Michael
    All Angles Design
    cell - 352.262.6071

    2013 Grigio Abarth
    AAD Torque Strut, AAD Catch Can, ATM FMIC, HCI, and Boost Gauge, Forge BOV and Actuator, Mpx TB, ATP Downpipe, Magnaflow Catback, Ryephile's EVAP Reroute, Neu-f Springs, Koni Yellow Front and Rear Shocks, Neu-F Torsion Bar, TWM Short Shifter, Custom 16x7 Royal Black & Polished Lip Rota RB's

  2. #12
    Senior Member doadea's Avatar
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    Ok, I took some shots of the stock unmodified lines, so maybe someone can use them to create a guide or something:







    Last edited by doadea; 10-31-2013 at 09:38 AM.
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  4. #13
    Senior Member DesmosDromos's Avatar
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    I think this drawing from the admin in the Free Horsepower thread is what we needed! http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/showt...l=1#post605196
    EVERY drive is an epic drive in an Abarth!

  5. #14
    Senior Member musicsurf's Avatar
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    If I had it all to do over again I would buy #2 in this diagram for $8.
    http://www.fiatpartswebstore.com/sho...rimLevel=20705

    That would allow you to scavenge a quick connect, and both factory check valves. That with the fuel hose, wye, and caps would allow you to replace everything without cutting any of the stock lines. No one else had this problem, but I popped the EPDM caps like balloons on my charge pipe. I ended up ordering the silicone caps from Mcmaster-Carr for piece of mind.
    Michael
    All Angles Design
    cell - 352.262.6071

    2013 Grigio Abarth
    AAD Torque Strut, AAD Catch Can, ATM FMIC, HCI, and Boost Gauge, Forge BOV and Actuator, Mpx TB, ATP Downpipe, Magnaflow Catback, Ryephile's EVAP Reroute, Neu-f Springs, Koni Yellow Front and Rear Shocks, Neu-F Torsion Bar, TWM Short Shifter, Custom 16x7 Royal Black & Polished Lip Rota RB's

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    Senior Member ophidia31's Avatar
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    Maybe Im confused/missing something about what this method accomplishes, but looking at the free power thread and the boost leak discovery within at the first few pages, it seems the check valve at the charge tube does the trick without having to reroute anything.

  7. #16
    Senior Member DesmosDromos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ophidia31 View Post
    Maybe Im confused/missing something about what this method accomplishes, but looking at the free power thread and the boost leak discovery within at the first few pages, it seems the check valve at the charge tube does the trick without having to reroute anything.
    It minimizes the chance of a thrown code since it allows the system to better purge evap vapors than that solution.
    EVERY drive is an epic drive in an Abarth!

  8. #17
    shagghie's Avatar
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    Mildly better for the environment too.
    http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=509&dateline=14328366  62
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  9. #18
    Senior Member ophidia31's Avatar
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    Got ya. Ill eventually make it through the rest of that thread. About halfway still. lol
    2016 Ceramic Metallic MX-5 w/ Brembo/BBS

  10. #19
    Senior Member musicsurf's Avatar
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    Slightly Modified Ryephile EVAP Reroute

    This is my very slight adaptation of Ryephiles EVAP reroute. Mainly I did it this way is to avoid cutting the expensive, longer line & to make it so there only had to be one location capped. I had to bring my car in because it wouldn't start not long after I did this mod (in no way related to the mod), & before I did, I wanted to return the car to stock. It took almost three weeks for me to get the longer EVAP hose & it is not cheap at about $90.
    Read entirely before starting.
    Parts list.

    Tools needed:
    Intakes vary so whichever tools you need to remove the intake & the air box, heat shield, etc.
    Razor knife
    Flathead or socket for the worm drive, I believe it's 1/4"
    A good pair of scissors or something to make a reasonably clean cut through the fuel line
    Pliers
    53055K156 X 1
    92805K15 X 1
    5011T141 X 1
    54605K34 - 6 ft
    53055K118 X 1
    http://www.fiatpartswebstore.com/pro...4627466AB.html

    For those of you that bought parts already after me mentioning this in another thread, I added something, a 3/8 barbed connector. It can be purchased at any auto parts store as the Dorman brand connectors. This alleviates the only possible snag in my mind to this working perfectly even though I have had no issues with the way I first did it. The need for the hose arises because parts need to be scavenged from it regardless of how you do this mod & just in case you ever need to switch back, you will have an intact hose to do so.

    Start by removing your intake if it goes towards the back of the engine bay, the air box if you have one, the heat shield if you have one. Basically you want to get everything out of the way so you have access to the back of the engine bay where the EVAP lines live. You will also want to remove your battery & battery tray. It's not absolutely necessary to do so as it can all be accessed from the bottom, but it makes life a lot easier especially if you haven't done this before. You want it to look like this:



    Note the line marked with a red x. This line needs to be removed. Disconnect it from the quick connect & then it runs to the intake and is connected with a tab and a clip. It also runs to the charge pipe & also is clipped in at a few points. Take the pliers & move the spring clamp so you can pull the hose off from the charge pipe. If need be, GENTLY use a flathead. Once you have that undone just put it aside you won't be touching it anymore.

    Next you are going to want to get some stuff out of the way to make life easier on the hardest part of the whole install. Locate the purge valve & remove the quick connect & the electrical connection as pictured.



    Pull the purge valve of by pushing it toward the firewall, watch to see if the rubber piece comes off with it and don't lose it.



    Next you are going to want to remove the same line that you ordered. Looking at the one you ordered will help you grasp where it goes. The part with the smaller check valve loops around the back of the engine & terminates at the quick connect. It is snapped in at two or three places in the back & at the quick connect. With that done, you will want to unclip the line that was connected to the purge valve, & then unclip the line you were working on completely. This leaves that line connected one more place & this is the difficult part. It runs to a nipple that goes into the intake manifold. I wish I could get a good picture of this, but it's pretty much impossible. You really just have to feel for it. The spring clip is difficult to get pliers on but is strong so they are a necessity. Be careful, this clamp is under a decent amount of tension & if it slips can catch your finger. There's no real danger in it, but it doesn't feel good. Once you can get it opened, you will have to slide it up away from the nipple. Once that's done you can pull the hose off and remove the whole thing.





    Once all that is done, this is what you should be working with.



    You are going to want to separate the hard emissions hose from the one side of the large check valve, both sides of the small check valve, & the quick connect. The easiest way to do this is to take a razor knife & make a slit through the hard line which should allow you to pull the line off. Be careful not to go crazy and cut big chunks out of the valves. You can also remove the pre-bent hose from the purge valve & the tee. You will be reusing it.






    Now you are going to cut the fuel line. You will need a 3.5" section, and 1 3/8" section, a 2" section, & roughly an 18-20 inch section. The last one will need to be trimmed down to fit your particular car. I did check to make sure it would work with an airbox, but I don't know exactly what length it would need to be.



    Take the 1 3/8" section & push it onto the 3/8" connector, then push it onto the open end of the large check valve. It won't completely seat, but that's okay because it does seal & this way the hose fits into the OEM connections easily & without compromising the seal. There is a possibility that the length of the barbed connector I linked to in the parts list is a different length than the Dorman one. Being that, it is possible you may have to use a slightly different length than 1 3/8" to get the appropriate fit. Connect the pre-bent hose to the other end of the barbed connector. Set aside.



    Take the 3.5 inch section of hose and connect it to the grey side of the small check valve (in) & the longer hose you cut to the black side (out). Do not connect the quick connect yet, it's just pictured for reference.



    Reconnect the driver side part of the hose to the nipple on the intake manifold & again get ahold of the two tabs on the clamp but this time slide it back down over the nipple. Feel for correct placement. The hose should pass in front of the hose that connects to the purge valve via a quick connect. You should be able to clip the left side of the large check valve back into the oem location & the barbed fitting should sit inside the other one. If the hose were to fit in here it pushes it out on the barbed fitting and could potentially be a leak. I decided that reusing the original pre-bent hose is a better option because this is the only point I saw being a possible problem. The fuel line doesn't make that tight radius turn very well. I had no problems with it this way in 5k+ miles though. Snap the hose that runs to the purge valve back into place. Just to be on the safe side, feel down that hose & you should come to a thin, short silicone hose that runs straight down. Just make sure that hose is connected to the nipple that is there. If it's not connected there will be a small EVAP leak & you will pop a P0456 code.




    Reattach the purge valve including the electrical connection & quick connect & put the 2" section of hose onto the nipple on the opposite side. Push the wye in as shown & attach the pre-bent line.



    Attach the 3.5" section of the longer line to the last open part of the wye.



    Now we need to cap the hole on the charge pipe. You will want to cut the cap as shown. I like to make mine as seated as possible to take the seam out of play just to be safe. Also just to be safe, I use the part that I cut off to make a sleeve just slightly wider than the worm drive in order to keep any chance of the worm drive biting into the cap from happening. I had this happen a couple times at first & blew caps out while driving leaving me with a gaping boost leak. Soap & water are your friend when getting the cap & sleeve on. Once they are on slip the worm drive over & tighten. There is no need to go crazy tightening it down, it just needs to be firm.



    Reattach the intake & cut the line to have a smooth bend to allow for sufficient purging. Push in the quick connect & reattach as normal to the intake. Having looked at the stock airbox, I believe you should still be able to route the line as I did since that part of the box is raised.

    Now just put your car back together! Sometimes starting your car after the ecu has reset will result in a very brief rough idle or possibly a stall. Don't panic, there's nothing wrong. If you run into any problems or have any questions, don't hesitate to ask! All credit for this goes to Ryephile as I just barely changed his original reroute.
    Last edited by Tweak; 11-23-2013 at 03:33 PM.
    Michael
    All Angles Design
    cell - 352.262.6071

    2013 Grigio Abarth
    AAD Torque Strut, AAD Catch Can, ATM FMIC, HCI, and Boost Gauge, Forge BOV and Actuator, Mpx TB, ATP Downpipe, Magnaflow Catback, Ryephile's EVAP Reroute, Neu-f Springs, Koni Yellow Front and Rear Shocks, Neu-F Torsion Bar, TWM Short Shifter, Custom 16x7 Royal Black & Polished Lip Rota RB's

  11. The Following 10 Users Say Thank You to musicsurf For This Useful Post:

    DesmosDromos (11-20-2013), mneuman916 (11-19-2013), nyc eng (01-30-2014), Phiat500 (02-19-2014), rjlong (12-15-2014), Ryephile (11-20-2013), Saberg (12-06-2014), ScorpionSkins.com (11-19-2013), trevc (11-20-2013), Vitka (10-28-2014)

  12. #20
    Senior Member trevc's Avatar
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    Those are the kind of instructions I needed! Thank you very much for spending the time to do this. Great detail!

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