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moosestang
10-10-2014, 03:15 PM
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/image/157762562.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/image/157762563.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/image/157762564.jpg

Car fired right up. Completely stock car, besides the boost leak reroute, which I will probably undo here shortly. I only drove it 2 miles down the road, 45mph top speed. It feels smoother at low rpms, low throttle and stronger, I was surprised since it isn't making any boost there. I goosed it(not WOT) a little in 3rd on the way back and it was a little jerky, hopefully it will smooth out. I velcroed the chip to the fuse box cover, seemed like the coolest place within reach. It wasn't even warm after my short drive and the motor was all ready warm when I started.

Did anyone beat on theirs right away? I here there's a break in period, then I hear there isn't.:dunno:

Jerseyboy
10-10-2014, 05:17 PM
"Car fired right up. Completely stock car, besides the boost leak reroute, which I will probably undo here shortly. I only drove it 2 miles down the road, 45mph top speed. It feels smoother at low rpms, low throttle and stronger, I was surprised since it isn't making any boost there. I goosed it(not WOT) a little in 3rd on the way back and it was a little jerky, hopefully it will smooth out. I velcroed the chip to the fuse box cover, seemed like the coolest place within reach. It wasn't even warm after my short drive and the motor was all ready warm when I started

Did anyone beat on theirs right away? I here there's a break in period, then I hear there isn't.:dunno:[/QUOTE]"



I ran mine for a few miles (until it came up to temp), than I let it rip. It is a little jerky but much better than it was. When it hits the sweet spot with the turbo spooling up it REALLY pulls. Enjoy the ride FIREdevilFIREdevil

opiateESP
10-10-2014, 05:36 PM
You two might want to add a bit of preload to your actuator. Back in the day, an old member hooked up a madness or RRM box to their 500T and it was jerky. He added some preload and it fixed the issue.

moosestang
10-10-2014, 05:39 PM
You two might want to add a bit of preload to your actuator. Back in the day, an old member hooked up a madness or RRM box to their 500T and it was jerky. He added some preload and it fixed the issue.

I checked my preload and it was at 8.5mm, I added .5 a turn for a total of 9mm. I read that all the 2014up abarth/turbo are coming with 8-9mm from the factory and my 14 had 8.5.

docron
10-10-2014, 05:59 PM
you can turn off the ESC partially or hold for ten seconds to turn it off completely. This works well with the Uni. ;)

Also, you can mount your Unichip on the backside of the ECU. Get some better Velcro than what comes in the box and you can mount it out of site right on the back side of the ECU. :)

moosestang
10-10-2014, 06:03 PM
I will have a better review tomorrow. It did seem very smooth until I got agressive with the throttle. I want smooth from tip in to WOT, is that too much to ask? This is my first turbo car, so maybe it's just the nature of the beast.

moosestang
10-10-2014, 08:06 PM
I hate to get off topic on my own thread, but can having too much preload on the actuator cause jerkiness at part throttle acceleration? Maybe I will try just a few mm's of preload.

opiateESP
10-10-2014, 08:12 PM
I hate to get off topic on my own thread, but can having too much preload on the actuator cause jerkiness at part throttle acceleration? Maybe I will try just a few mm's of preload.

Could be. Definitely worth a shot.

Tweak
10-10-2014, 08:19 PM
Don't baby it, once it is warmed up just hammer it like you normally would. This is what Chris says to many from what I have read. Works great and it is a lot of fun!

boxerbay
10-10-2014, 09:24 PM
I couldnt resist. I waited till late when no cars around and got on it. How do you guys have 8mm 9mm preload? My factory setting from the arm sliding on easily i am 2 full turns in. I went to four and it got worse/softer. I don't understand. It's the turbo and waste gate different? Mines a 2012.

Purgatory
10-10-2014, 10:28 PM
Congratulations on your Uni-Chip install, and welcome to that club.

I was told by Chris with both the Stage I I bought, and later the Stage II upgrade, to just get out and drive the car as normal. I am always in Sports Mode, and during my original install, it was like my car was adjusting instantly in my drive way. Kind of idle rough and gurgly sounding, then as soon as I backed out of driveway, and headed for open rode, it smoothed itself out, and has been smooth, strong, and fast ever since. Has a much better idle than when it was stock.

Did the same thing with the Stage II, was driving WOT within 5 minutes of flashing the chip. No problems.

Perhaps you have another issue going, and the Uni-Chip is making it more noticeable?

slowbird
10-10-2014, 10:48 PM
When I installed mine I drove it HARD. Numerous WOT pulls over and over and over again.

For awhile the car felt no different than stock. Then all of a sudden I had all this Midrange power that came outta nowhere. No changes in exhaust noise as some have mentioned. No more backfires or anything. :blue:

One wierd thing I noticed is that the car occasionally sounds like it starts funny with the UniChip installed. Like the starter is spinning after the car starts or something. I took the UniChip off for a dealer appointment and the funny starting issue is gone.

moosestang
10-11-2014, 03:13 AM
I couldnt resist. I waited till late when no cars around and got on it. How do you guys have 8mm 9mm preload? My factory setting from the arm sliding on easily i am 2 full turns in. I went to four and it got worse/softer. I don't understand. It's the turbo and waste gate different? Mines a 2012.

I don't know, but 8.5 full turns is what I measured, arm slid on easily. I read in the how to adjust it thread that 8-9mm is what they are setting them at now from the factory.

moosestang
10-11-2014, 04:53 PM
you can turn off the ESC partially or hold for ten seconds to turn it off completely. This works well with the Uni. ;)

Also, you can mount your Unichip on the backside of the ECU. Get some better Velcro than what comes in the box and you can mount it out of site right on the back side of the ECU. :)

I don't believe holding the esc button works for the T, it just turns the light back off if you hold it. I did have esc off though. I considered mounting it to the back of the ecu, but I wanted it as far away from the motor heat as possible.

Car ran much better today. I'm going to remove some preload tomorrow and retest.

Tweak
10-11-2014, 06:06 PM
I don't believe holding the esc button works for the T, it just turns the light back off if you hold it. I did have esc off though. I considered mounting it to the back of the ecu, but I wanted it as far away from the motor heat as possible.

Car ran much better today. I'm going to remove some preload tomorrow and retest.

The T doesn't have the 2 levels of ESC that the Abarth offers from what several T owners have stated.

moosestang
10-12-2014, 10:18 AM
I took a pic of the actuator arm showing how much preload was set from the factory. You can still see the goop on the threads.

http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/image/157791322.jpg

I set it to about 4mm. I disconnected the battery, so it will have to relearn. It seemed a little smoother at part throttle, but it was harder to start this time and when I left lowes.
http://www.pbase.com/image/157791321.jpg

boxerbay
10-12-2014, 11:18 AM
I am thinking maybe the linkage is different. I have a 2012 abarth and it's at to 2 full turns from factory. When i went to 4 turns it had less power. I might try going the other way to 1.5 turns to see what happens.

moosestang
10-12-2014, 12:24 PM
I am thinking maybe the linkage is different. I have a 2012 abarth and it's at to 2 full turns from factory. When i went to 4 turns it had less power. I might try going the other way to 1.5 turns to see what happens.

the linkage is different from my 2014 turbo? so you only have 2 turns of preload set?

Crossfirecat
10-12-2014, 02:59 PM
By the looks of your pics, you made the arm longer? Which reduces tension and allows the waste gate to open sooner. You want to shorten the arm. In other words, the arm pushes toward the drivers side to open the waste gate. In order to delay this you want to make the arm shorter. Zero preload will be the point where the arm slides easily over the stud. If you make the arm shorter so that you have to pull it out a little to get it onto the stud while holding the waste gate closed, then you've added preload.


I took a pic of the actuator arm showing how much preload was set from the factory. You can still see the goop on the threads.

http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/image/157791322.jpg

I set it to about 4mm. I disconnected the battery, so it will have to relearn. It seemed a little smoother at part throttle, but it was harder to start this time and when I left lowes.
http://www.pbase.com/image/157791321.jpg

moosestang
10-12-2014, 04:13 PM
By the looks of your pics, you made the arm longer? Which reduces tension and allows the waste gate to open sooner. You want to shorten the arm. In other words, the arm pushes toward the drivers side to open the waste gate. In order to delay this you want to make the arm shorter. Zero preload will be the point where the arm slides easily over the stud. If you make the arm shorter so that you have to pull it out a little to get it onto the stud while holding the waste gate closed, then you've added preload.

The first pic the arm has zero preload and the nut is about at the factory position, which i counted as 8.5 turns. the second pic i set it to 4 turns or about 4mm of preload. It was surging pretty good over 4k rpms, which is why I lengthened the arm. 2013 abarths have 0-2mm of preload from what i've read and the newer cars they are setting at 8-9mm.

It does seem to surge less now, but I'll wait a couple of days and might try going to 10mm. I need to get a boost gauge first.

it maybe that i'm expecting too much from a turbo charged 4 cylinder. If I hold steady throttle, I expect steady acceleration to redline, not a surge in acceleration at 4500rpms.

boxerbay
10-12-2014, 04:37 PM
the linkage is different from my 2014 turbo? so you only have 2 turns of preload set?

Correct. Factory set at 2 turns. Im not messing with it for now. Just got back from orlando pushing 110 120 most of the way. Pulling REALLY hard in 5th from 80 to 120. How much more can you ask from a 1.4?

** do not try this at home. Professional driver on a closed course. No animals were harmed except maybe a few extra dinosaurs petro.

boxerbay
10-12-2014, 04:40 PM
The first pic the arm has zero preload and the nut is about at the factory position, which i counted as 8.5 turns. the second pic i set it to 4 turns or about 4mm of preload. It was surging pretty good over 4k rpms, which is why I lengthened the arm. 2013 abarths have 0-2mm of preload from what i've read and the newer cars they are setting at 8-9mm.

It does seem to surge less now, but I'll wait a couple of days and might try going to 10mm. I need to get a boost gauge first.

it maybe that i'm expecting too much from a turbo charged 4 cylinder. If I hold steady throttle, I expect steady acceleration to redline, not a surge in acceleration at 4500rpms.

Its a turbo. It will spool up and surge. With uni2 i get a nice surge at 5200. Front end lifts a bit.

Crossfirecat
10-12-2014, 04:43 PM
Ok, makes sense now! I would definitely get a gauge asap! I was hitting 27psi and then it would drop to 25 steady with 4 turns with the stage 2 Unichip. I'm running the Forge actuator with the heavier blue spring though.


The first pic the arm has zero preload and the nut is about at the factory position, which i counted as 8.5 turns. the second pic i set it to 4 turns or about 4mm of preload. It was surging pretty good over 4k rpms, which is why I lengthened the arm. 2013 abarths have 0-2mm of preload from what i've read and the newer cars they are setting at 8-9mm.

It does seem to surge less now, but I'll wait a couple of days and might try going to 10mm. I need to get a boost gauge first.

it maybe that i'm expecting too much from a turbo charged 4 cylinder. If I hold steady throttle, I expect steady acceleration to redline, not a surge in acceleration at 4500rpms.

boxerbay
10-12-2014, 04:53 PM
Yeah i was reading that thread this afternoon while the ladies talked.

Anyways back on topic. Moose enjoy that uni. It gets better with time. Im fine with my wg preload as it is now. If you want soft turn off sport button.

moosestang
10-13-2014, 10:30 AM
So car was running good this morning, but it threw a p0105 map sensor code. At the same time it started flashing esc unavailable and the dash had the esc light lit up plus the esc off light was lit. I also couldn't use my cruise control. I assume all this is because of the unichip. I cleared the code when I got to work. On the way home ill see what happens.

boxerbay
10-13-2014, 10:55 AM
my guess is that you dont have the plugs seated correctly.

moosestang
10-13-2014, 03:17 PM
my guess is that you dont have the plugs seated correctly.

but it was working fine before and it worked fine on the way home.

moosestang
10-13-2014, 06:37 PM
I'll reseat the plugs tomorrow. I'm going to put the actuator preload back to stock. I'm not sure if it had anything to do with the map code, but it has caused some off idle lag that I don't like. Then I'm going to take it out and beat on it!

I also have a autometer boost gauge coming tomorrow, so as soon as i figure out where to T off for the boost/vacuum, I'll be able to see actual boost!

moosestang
10-14-2014, 09:46 AM
I reseated all the plugs. the short plug on the ecm did look like it was raised up on one end, but all the pins look fine. I had to push it down after sliding the lock to get it to seat even. Hopefully it stays down.

FTY
10-14-2014, 10:18 PM
Moosetang if your still having issues with the Uni-Chip please shoot me an email and we can start diagnosing any issue you are having.

boxerbay
10-15-2014, 07:28 AM
the left factory harness is tight. if you follow it back there is a zip tie you can pop and that gives you a bit more room to move the harness and seat it properly.

moosestang
10-18-2014, 05:37 PM
Moosetang if your still having issues with the Uni-Chip please shoot me an email and we can start diagnosing any issue you are having.

I haven't had any more weird errors or failures of the cruise control since I reseated the connectors.

FTY
10-18-2014, 07:36 PM
I haven't had any more weird errors or failures of the cruise control since I reseated the connectors.

Ok great!

moosestang
10-24-2014, 01:01 PM
So car was running good this morning, but it threw a p0105 map sensor code. At the same time it started flashing esc unavailable and the dash had the esc light lit up plus the esc off light was lit. I also couldn't use my cruise control. I assume all this is because of the unichip. I cleared the code when I got to work. On the way home ill see what happens.

Happened again, hill start unavailable, esc unavailable, red flashing lightning bolt on the cluster, no cruise control and p0105 map sensor code permanent code. I think the unichip has a short somewhere. Here's a video I was making showing how the boost oscillated at WOT and it gave me the check engine light and started scrolling everything unavailable across the screen. After that it wouldn't go above 8psi of boost.


http://youtu.be/LYvm9k91C0M