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View Full Version : How to adjust the 1.4l Abarth WasteGate



undfeatable
09-29-2014, 06:01 PM
Hey everyone, I wanted to help out this community by sharing a great fix with y'all. Originally I posted a thread asking what the Abarth's Waste Gate was adjusted to in order to compare it to the 1.4L dart. We have seen low amounts of preload on ours (pointed out by Tork Motorsports) that was eventually increased in newer models. I wanted to find out what ours was supposed to be by comparing it to calls, but it seems you are experiencing the same issues! So here is a how to on the adjustment and everything you need to know about it.

This is a summary thread to put some order in the wastegate adjustment thread. Tork Motorsports', who discovered this in during one of their numerous dyno runs when tuning and provided us with this info for the good of the community, original thread can be found here (http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/tork-motorsports/19932-low-boost-fix-confirmed.html).

What is it:
The waste gate is the part that controls when boost is circulated through the system and when its supposed to dump into the exhaust (when you let off the throttle for instance).

The problem:
Most early modeled (up to the end of 2013 is kinda the cut off) 1.4l engines came from factory with 0-1.5mm of preload (the pressure that the wastegate has to overcome to dump the boost). This causes premature boost dumping, resulting in:
A. The P0299 UnderBoost Code
B. Horrific Turbo Surge
C. No power below Turbo
D. Subpar MPG
E. Bad Throttle responce (bad throttle manipulation, jumps from idle to like 1800rpm)

The fix:
Newer turbo'd darts (and Abarths) come with Rev F of the turbo and have 8-9mm of preload on them from factory. It has been found that the problems above can be fixed simply by adjusting the preload on the wastegate to 4-6mm of preload (amount varies, starting with 4mm is common, especially among those without boost gauges, and jumping to 6mm after a couple miles). After the adjustment, the ECM takes around 75 miles to fully adjust. Before that point though, right off the bat you need to do around 10 WOT pulls (up into 3rd gear, so like 65mph) to do the initial adjustment. Don't be scared if you hear pinging (like a jackhammer firing in the air), just let off the throttle, give the engine a minute, and continue (if you continue to ping or have major issues, back the preload down an mm or 2). Adjustment is easy and takes as little as 15 minutes. Here is a video on how to do the adjustment on the dart. Yalls will be essentially the same-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GNsTgcM858

My experience after adjustment (My Dart):
I never had the P0299 code, but driving this car was a nightmare. Getting going meant slipping the clutch since throttle was so jumpy. Now I have great throttle manipulation, I no longer look like a metal head doing some sort of head banging when the turbo kicks in, I can actually move below turbo and in 6th gear on the highway, and my MPGs went up by 9 (use to get 30 at 65 and 27-29 at 70, now I get 39-42 and 34-36 respectively). The car now sounds better too, louder exhaust and you can hear the turbo blow off. Drives like its supposed to.

Warranty questions:
There is no way to prove that you adjusted the wastegate. They do not really have a preset from factory early on, so proving it should be a certain number is not possible. If you are really concerned, there is a small amount of marking tack used to check off that it was put on at factory, you can pick some up at any hardware store. Also just being gentle on the nuts to not show removal can help.

Troubleshooting:
If you still experience the P0299 code, you may have other issues to the car. Tork offers a pressure testing kit that charges your system with pressure to find any leaks. In addition, a trip to the dealer may be in order.

Warning- Attempt this at your own discretion, no problems have been reported, only people thankful for this fix and having a car they can actually enjoy driving so much more!

Sales@Tork
09-29-2014, 06:31 PM
Hey everyone, I wanted to help out this community by sharing a great fix with y'all. Originally I posted a thread asking what the Abarth's Waste Gate was adjusted to in order to compare it to the 1.4L dart. We have seen low amounts of preload on ours (pointed out by Tork Motorsports) that was eventually increased in newer models. I wanted to find out what ours was supposed to be by comparing it to calls, but it seems you are experiencing the same issues! So here is a how to on the adjustment and everything you need to know about it.

Thank you for bringing this over here, not nearly the issues with the fiats as the darts but good information all around

shadowshaggy
09-29-2014, 06:35 PM
Not an issue here, but adjusted to 5mm yesterday and noticed quite a driveability difference. Mine was factory set at 1.5/2mm, forgot to count but very little ;)

shagghie
09-29-2014, 07:50 PM
Hey everyone, I wanted to help out this community by sharing a great fix with y'all. Originally I posted a thread asking what the Abarth's Waste Gate was adjusted to in order to compare it to the 1.4L dart. We have seen low amounts of preload on ours (pointed out by Tork Motorsports) that was eventually increased in newer models. I wanted to find out what ours was supposed to be by comparing it to calls, but it seems you are experiencing the same issues! So here is a how to on the adjustment and everything you need to know about it.

This is a summary thread to put some order in the wastegate adjustment thread. Tork Motorsports', who discovered this in during one of their numerous dyno runs when tuning and provided us with this info for the good of the community, original thread can be found here (http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/tork-motorsports/19932-low-boost-fix-confirmed.html).

What is it:
The waste gate is the part that controls when boost is circulated through the system and when its supposed to dump into the exhaust (when you let off the throttle for instance).

The problem:
Most early modeled (up to the end of 2013 is kinda the cut off) 1.4l engines came from factory with 0-1.5mm of preload (the pressure that the wastegate has to overcome to dump the boost). This causes premature boost dumping, resulting in:
A. The P0299 UnderBoost Code
B. Horrific Turbo Surge
C. No power below Turbo
D. Subpar MPG
E. Bad Throttle responce (bad throttle manipulation, jumps from idle to like 1800rpm)

The fix:
Newer turbo'd darts (and Abarths) come with Rev F of the turbo and have 8-9mm of preload on them from factory. It has been found that the problems above can be fixed simply by adjusting the preload on the wastegate to 4-6mm of preload (amount varies, starting with 4mm is common, especially among those without boost gauges, and jumping to 6mm after a couple miles). After the adjustment, the ECM takes around 75 miles to fully adjust. Before that point though, right off the bat you need to do around 10 WOT pulls (up into 3rd gear, so like 65mph) to do the initial adjustment. Don't be scared if you hear pinging (like a jackhammer firing in the air), just let off the throttle, give the engine a minute, and continue (if you continue to ping or have major issues, back the preload down an mm or 2). Adjustment is easy and takes as little as 15 minutes. Here is a video on how to do the adjustment on the dart. Yalls will be essentially the same-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GNsTgcM858

My experience after adjustment (My Dart):
I never had the P0299 code, but driving this car was a nightmare. Getting going meant slipping the clutch since throttle was so jumpy. Now I have great throttle manipulation, I no longer look like a metal head doing some sort of head banging when the turbo kicks in, I can actually move below turbo and in 6th gear on the highway, and my MPGs went up by 9 (use to get 30 at 65 and 27-29 at 70, now I get 39-42 and 34-36 respectively). The car now sounds better too, louder exhaust and you can hear the turbo blow off. Drives like its supposed to.

Warranty questions:
There is no way to prove that you adjusted the wastegate. They do not really have a preset from factory early on, so proving it should be a certain number is not possible. If you are really concerned, there is a small amount of marking tack used to check off that it was put on at factory, you can pick some up at any hardware store. Also just being gentle on the nuts to not show removal can help.

Troubleshooting:
If you still experience the P0299 code, you may have other issues to the car. Tork offers a pressure testing kit that charges your system with pressure to find any leaks. In addition, a trip to the dealer may be in order.

Warning- Attempt this at your own discretion, no problems have been reported, only people thankful for this fix and having a car they can actually enjoy driving so much more!


I never read the OP ^^^ first time i saw this thread. Wish I had.

I went from a Rev C to Rev F turbo. I am using the WGA that came with the new Rev F turbo. It is a shorter arm, literally, than what was on the Rev C. (not just more/less pre-load, but the arm itself is a different length).
I tried my Forge WGA with the settings from the C turbo before, and it was horrible on the new F turbo.

I popped the OEM WGA that came with the F turbo back on, and the car has never driven better, the blow off is more crisp and 'fast' than ever, and the car holds boost wonderfully.
Go figure... there must be something different with the Dart tunes than our cars have, else the IC differences maybe manifest differently, else the engineers have designed fewer/more boost leaks into the Dart platform than we have designed into ours at the DV seal, the SMIC plumbing, and the charge-pipe to intake leak.

Info may or may not be helpful, but reading your OP, it sounds like we are starting with two totally different animals compared to the Abarth...

Mr bob
09-29-2014, 07:56 PM
Yes, thank you for bringing this here. After adjusting mine and putting on enough miles I notice a big difference in when the boost kicks in now. Before even with a steady throttle aplications when the turbo kicked in it was always like I mashed the gas. Now it is much smoother and more controllable. No more trying to explain to my passengers it's the car and not me.

undfeatable
09-30-2014, 02:42 PM
I never read the OP ^^^ first time i saw this thread. Wish I had.

I went from a Rev C to Rev F turbo. I am using the WGA that came with the new Rev F turbo. It is a shorter arm, literally, than what was on the Rev C. (not just more/less pre-load, but the arm itself is a different length).
I tried my Forge WGA with the settings from the C turbo before, and it was horrible on the new F turbo.

I popped the OEM WGA that came with the F turbo back on, and the car has never driven better, the blow off is more crisp and 'fast' than ever, and the car holds boost wonderfully.
Go figure... there must be something different with the Dart tunes than our cars have, else the IC differences maybe manifest differently, else the engineers have designed fewer/more boost leaks into the Dart platform than we have designed into ours at the DV seal, the SMIC plumbing, and the charge-pipe to intake leak.

Info may or may not be helpful, but reading your OP, it sounds like we are starting with two totally different animals compared to the Abarth...

I don't see it being two different animals. Y'all are experiencing similar issues with everything but the P0299 code. I think that may not be an issue for y'all because the ECM works using speed/ distance (or something of that nature) to calculate if everything is working right. With less weight to drag (I mean, like 1k less weight!), the ECM may not be seeing this issue as bad.

Several people on here have already said they are enjoying a smoother riding abarth now, and probably getting the mpg they expected (though, not putting your foot down is kinda hard now that the throttle responds!).

MichaelT
09-30-2014, 04:38 PM
Thanks for the post, I am gonna give this a go.

shadowshaggy
09-30-2014, 07:11 PM
shadowlessme, fwiw mine was set less than 2mm - adjusted to 5 and it is a lot better. I have the E revision turbo (late 2013 Abarth) and it performs much better now, am thinking about trying both 4 and 6 mm - but haven't made it that far yet.

BigDaddySRT
09-30-2014, 07:45 PM
I'll say it in this thread also... Your ECM will catch on that you have modified the Boost Algorithm, and it will alter the Wastegate Solenoid Valve to bring you back to within specification after a few drive cycles.

You can reset your battery a lot to bring in the base default algorithms and restore the "feeling" of adding power, but the ECM will catch on to what you're doing.

undfeatable
10-01-2014, 06:57 PM
I'll say it in this thread also... Your ECM will catch on that you have modified the Boost Algorithm, and it will alter the Wastegate Solenoid Valve to bring you back to within specification after a few drive cycles.

You can reset your battery a lot to bring in the base default algorithms and restore the "feeling" of adding power, but the ECM will catch on to what you're doing.
I think you are misunderstanding the purpose here. Its not to "add power" or "make it feel better" due to some computer programming, this is a physical flaw that prevents the computer from doing what its supposed to be doing. Without enough preload, the solenoid can't hold the boost pressure and will blow off/leak through the exhaust. So it compensates and adds more fueling and stuff to make it run, but at the cost of mpg and still not being able to hold boost where it should be. The adjustment provides the extra force to hold the flapper in place and maintain the boost, hence why you can get better mpg's by doing this, especially at cruise (no more wasted boost). The computer adjusts to blow off correctly (and build boost more stably) and everything is happy operating the way its supposed to. People with darts have already run a couple thousand miles since the adjustment (myself included), and everything still works amazingly!

bainbridgeny
10-03-2014, 09:15 AM
Mine was set at 1.5mm. Set it to 5mm yesterday and am pretty surprised about the difference. Throttle is more responsive, turbo spools quick, and the power is very consistent. I have the TMC box which is know to have surges but this smoothed everything out. Thanks again fellow 1.4 brothers!

pip
10-07-2014, 10:33 AM
Im excited to do this hopefully this weekend (ran out of time last weekend)

After I do this I will need to leave battery un plugged for a little and then do the "learn" drive.....is there more info about this 80 miles thing..?/

thanks!

slowbird
10-07-2014, 12:50 PM
I took a gander at the arm on my Abarth and it has a dash of the Factory paint marks on it. If I adjust it I think it'll be obvious.

These cars have alot of those paint marks from the factory.

undfeatable
10-07-2014, 05:18 PM
Im excited to do this hopefully this weekend (ran out of time last weekend)

After I do this I will need to leave battery un plugged for a little and then do the "learn" drive.....is there more info about this 80 miles thing..?/

thanks!
No need to pull the battery. Just take it or, drive it sensible for a minute or two while the engine warms up, and beat the hell out of it with a few WOT pulls to get the learning process started. If you hear any pinging (jack hammer being fired in the air), let off the throttle for a second, then go again! Have fun!

I took a gander at the arm on my Abarth and it has a dash of the Factory paint marks on it. If I adjust it I think it'll be obvious.

These cars have alot of those paint marks from the factory.
It was just an inspection mark, if you really are that concerned, a similar paste can be picked up at any auto parts store and applied.

gundam2000
10-08-2014, 10:50 AM
I had 2mm of preload on my Abarth. I adjusted it to 4mm and the throttle at the low end is much more controllable in sport mode. it used to shoot straight to 1800 rpm at the slightest touch, now launching is easier in 1st. I may try 6mm soon.

Rossonero404
10-08-2014, 11:10 AM
Anyone make this adjustment with the UniChip already installed?

boxerbay
10-08-2014, 11:28 AM
Im planning to do this later this afternoon.


Anyone make this adjustment with the UniChip already installed?

opiateESP
10-08-2014, 11:36 AM
Wastegate adjustment can definitely help. Some of the arms have more than just a paint mark though. Some have a thick hard substance applied that you have to break to make the adjustment.

undfeatable
10-08-2014, 12:46 PM
Wastegate adjustment can definitely help. Some of the arms have more than just a paint mark though. Some have a thick hard substance applied that you have to break to make the adjustment.

By paint mark I meant a paste. Its a simple whitish yellowish paste that can be picked up at any autoparts/ home depot and applied if someone is really worried.

undfeatable
10-08-2014, 12:46 PM
I had 2mm of preload on my Abarth. I adjusted it to 4mm and the throttle at the low end is much more controllable in sport mode. it used to shoot straight to 1800 rpm at the slightest touch, now launching is easier in 1st. I may try 6mm soon.
Glad to hear, it did the same thing for me. I couldn't believe how much better the throttle manipulation improved.

Im planning to do this later this afternoon.
Can't wait to hear your results!

opiateESP
10-08-2014, 12:57 PM
By paint mark I meant a paste. Its a simple whitish yellowish paste that can be picked up at any autoparts/ home depot and applied if someone is really worried.

Rad. Good info. I didn't know what the stuff was

Rossonero404
10-08-2014, 01:41 PM
Im planning to do this later this afternoon.

Awesome, let us know how it goes, before and after the adjustment period. I'd like to do this as well as re-gap my plugs

boxerbay
10-08-2014, 08:28 PM
Sorry but not for me. As soon as it cools it going back from 4 to 2 turns as it was. This myth is busted.
At least for me it wasnt my liking. It mellowed it out somewhat. If that's what your looking for then do it. Less yank and less chatter and the top of the gears felt rounded off a bit. I like the yank and chatter. What's the point of buying uni chip 2 and hci if you want to go mellow? As soon as she cools is going back.

Many thanks for the info. It was a learning experience.

ophidia31
10-08-2014, 08:40 PM
Sorry but not for me. As soon as it cools it going back from 4 to 2 turns as it was. This myth is busted.
At least for me it wasnt my liking. It mellowed it out somewhat. If that's what your looking for then do it. Less yank and less chatter and the top of the gears felt rounded off a bit. I like the yank and chatter. What's the point of buying uni chip 2 and hci if you want to go mellow? As soon as she cools is going back.

Many thanks for the info. It was a learning experience.

Its not busted, you just said it wasnt for you. Just because you didnt like it, doesnt mean others dont.

boxerbay
10-08-2014, 09:57 PM
Ok back to 2 full turns and piss and vinegar is back. If i want mellow I'll turn off the sport mode.

undfeatable
10-10-2014, 10:29 AM
Sorry but not for me. As soon as it cools it going back from 4 to 2 turns as it was. This myth is busted.
At least for me it wasnt my liking. It mellowed it out somewhat. If that's what your looking for then do it. Less yank and less chatter and the top of the gears felt rounded off a bit. I like the yank and chatter. What's the point of buying uni chip 2 and hci if you want to go mellow? As soon as she cools is going back.

Many thanks for the info. It was a learning experience.
So you got made because the boosting was smoother and less jumpy?

Lol, you just want to have the turbo surge to make it seem like you have moar powa!

silvete
10-17-2014, 11:38 PM
Hi all , i had mine at 4.5 and was a very nice improvment, today i went to 6.5mm , seems normal, whats the risk with this high preload, car is going to be parked all weekend, time to redo, how ever my car lost some power, i installed a custom axle back and returned to v3 wich really dont make any difference from stock, ordered a v4 and had a v2 intalled, so my car lost some punch with the muffler .. or meaybe to high preload of 6.5 full 12.5 turns.

Opinions wanted please.


Thanks for reading

boostaddict
10-18-2014, 05:38 AM
You have to let the ecu adjust after you adjust the wastegate that's why it didn't run good. Have a boost gauge to monitor the boost spikes, at 6mm I had a boost spike of 19psi nothing major. Like the OP says it takes around 70 miles to adjust.

bootychickens
10-20-2014, 05:41 PM
2 questions. How do you tell if you have a rev F turbo. And. If I did this to an abarth and it boost fades starting at an earlier RPM (4400ish vers 4900ish before) (even after 80 hard miles) does that mean I went to far? The car I did it on was 2.5 turns out from the factory and I went to 5 turns. Maybe the ECU is still learning but the car also makes 1lb less total boost. (24 vers 25 before)

shagghie
10-20-2014, 05:46 PM
stop the madness. :-)

Rev F here, stock waste gate setting with all the bolt-ons...no surging. Fix the chatter with a proper BOV like the Forge or GFB. With a different tune, adjusting the WGA preload might make sense, but only to hold longer and for on/off race applications (not street). My $02... just sayin'.

beauwille
10-21-2014, 09:31 PM
Having what I assume to be a Rev F, (MY2014), I was at a preload of 9mm. Very little throttle response until I was in the turbo, and turbo chatter all the time.
I recently turned it to 11mm, and it is honestly an insane difference. Car pulls harder the entire way through the rpm range (especially in top end where it used to die), and it was the first time it had the front end hopping/spinning in 1st gear in the dry.

What is the risk of going too high?
Also I do not have a a/m boost gauge.

shagghie
10-26-2014, 12:50 AM
For reference this is a pic of a rev F wga vs. a rev C wga, as they come from the factory:

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/shagghie/Isabella/Forge%20WGA%20-%20BOV/714D5431-26A9-4BF8-804E-A347BD49866A.jpg (http://s60.photobucket.com/user/shagghie/media/Isabella/Forge%20WGA%20-%20BOV/714D5431-26A9-4BF8-804E-A347BD49866A.jpg.html)

Rev C part number:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/shagghie/Isabella/Forge%20WGA%20-%20BOV/A77AEE69-FF09-4F5D-A8F3-978B2D0F32E8.jpg (http://s60.photobucket.com/user/shagghie/media/Isabella/Forge%20WGA%20-%20BOV/A77AEE69-FF09-4F5D-A8F3-978B2D0F32E8.jpg.html)

Rev F part number:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/shagghie/Isabella/Forge%20WGA%20-%20BOV/A2403668-B716-45A6-B085-9E65488A39F8.jpg (http://s60.photobucket.com/user/shagghie/media/Isabella/Forge%20WGA%20-%20BOV/A2403668-B716-45A6-B085-9E65488A39F8.jpg.html)

As u can see, the actual length of the preload arm itself is shorter on the Rev F (not just the number of threads). More noticeable still, is that rev F's resistance is also stronger when u try to manually pull the arm out. a LOT Harder to pull the rev F arm.

InFuZiOn
10-28-2014, 02:32 PM
Just curious, is it possible to make these turbo boost adjustments on my 15 500t? I've got it in my service bay now correcting the steering wheel(wasnt centered) and another little quirk with the headliner so if it's just a quick simple adjustment I might have my tech go ahead and do that adjustment on mine as well and see how it runs because I've noticed she has great top end power but the low to mid-range on the powerband is just ok right now.

Tweak
10-28-2014, 09:51 PM
Just curious, is it possible to make these turbo boost adjustments on my 15 500t? I've got it in my service bay now correcting the steering wheel(wasnt centered) and another little quirk with the headliner so if it's just a quick simple adjustment I might have my tech go ahead and do that adjustment on mine as well and see how it runs because I've noticed she has great top end power but the low to mid-range on the powerband is just ok right now.

I'm going to say any of the turbo cars can make this adjustment...how much for the different models will be the variance to figure out however.

InFuZiOn
10-29-2014, 06:13 PM
Yeah I was just thinking how the kicker will be finding out exactly where it needs to be because I've noticed some jump in my turbo gauge after 3k RPM And before 5k where it seems to be acting a little off I guess you could say

Tweak
10-29-2014, 10:38 PM
Yeah I was just thinking how the kicker will be finding out exactly where it needs to be because I've noticed some jump in my turbo gauge after 3k RPM And before 5k where it seems to be acting a little off I guess you could say

Someone has to go first...lol. :p

Antihistamine
11-27-2014, 05:57 AM
Thanks to OP for this. I just got back from a test run after doing this. I have a late model 2013 and stock preload was set at 1.5mm. Set it at 4mm of preload and God I'm speechless. Everything is as how the OP described it. Better throttle modulation and boost hold is just insane. I have a forge atmospheric bov and the blow off is much more crisp and more normal sounding. Also fixed my flutter dumping issue (fututututu psssss)

AreWhyAyEn
12-15-2014, 12:23 AM
Decided i'd try this out since I cleaned out my garage today, so was finally able to pull the car inside. Mine was set at 2mm, I set it at 5. Its a little late so i didnt want to pull the car out to drive it as it will rumble the whole house and I live in a duplex. So I'll see how things feel in the morning. Excited to see. Also washed, waxed, cleaned the interior, added some air fresheners, and wiped down under the hood. So tomorrow ill be feeling freshhhhhhhhhhhhh.

AreWhyAyEn
12-15-2014, 10:48 PM
So i drove it today, and wow. what a difference. I didn't really think it would do much, but it's like night and day. No more of the fall on your face on gear change in normal mode, much smoother now. Sport mode, still great kick, but much more controlled. It got rid of the lag lag BOOM feeling, It's much more linear. Anyone who doesn't check/adjust their preload is missing out. I figured all of the things I described were just characteristic of the car, and the future upgrades i'm planning will smooth everything out, but I'm glad I took the 15 minutes to do this. Edit:Also increased the sound of the turbo spool from the exhaust at low RPM. Caught myself driving for like 10 minutes with the windows down when its 40 degrees out because it sounds so good.

Carcraz8
01-07-2015, 08:44 AM
Has anyone seen an increase in mpg.

Babel
01-07-2015, 11:26 AM
Is there any negatives to doing this? Has any one had any problems? Will this shorten the life of the engine or the turbo or is it all 100% benefits.

Carcraz8
01-10-2015, 06:48 PM
Im going to try this again. Has anyone seen an increase in MPG by doing this change?

Antihistamine
01-10-2015, 08:36 PM
Im going to try this again. Has anyone seen an increase in MPG by doing this change?

I went from 22.3 mpg to 24.0 :)

Carcraz8
01-11-2015, 04:15 PM
Ok my car is a 10/2013 build date and came with 1mm preload. I went and set it to an 8mm AND OMG what a difference. My boost has been around 19 since its cold out and it stayed the same after the adjustment. Like other people have said the boost does not fall off what so ever. I would recommend this is a must DO.

bainbridgeny
01-11-2015, 07:53 PM
Is there any negatives to doing this? Has any one had any problems? Will this shorten the life of the engine or the turbo or is it all 100% benefits.

I adjusted mine and it caused the wastegate to get stuck open and something else to go wrong with the bov. Had to replace the entire turbo assembly and doing this adjustment took it out of warranty so I'm stuck with the bill. When it was working it was a noticeable difference in a good way so just be careful.

Spool500
01-11-2015, 09:19 PM
How many MMs did you adjust the preload prior to the failure? And tune or piggyback along with the adjustmant?

dart_1.4T
01-12-2015, 10:00 AM
Ok my car is a 10/2013 build date and came with 1mm preload. I went and set it to an 8mm AND OMG what a difference. My boost has been around 19 since its cold out and it stayed the same after the adjustment. Like other people have said the boost does not fall off what so ever. I would recommend this is a must DO.

Unfortunately, the boost will still decrease in the upper rpm range. While doing the adjustment is a huge benefit, it will not sustain a constant psi all the way thru redline. Boost pressure is controlled by many variables in the ecm, not just the WGA, which causes the boost to spike and hold a determined psi, then gradually dropping in the upper rpm's.

I have my WGA adjusted to 8mm currently and I have had it as far as 12mm. I have not seen any difference in performance with 8mm to 12mm adjustments.

Typically, in a 4th gear WOT pull from 2500 rpm's, I see spike of about 23-25 psi then it will hold at 22 psi until 4500 rpm's. At 4500 rpm's my boost will gradually drop from about 22 psi to 18-20 psi, then as I near redline at 6000 rpm's my boost will be about 16 psi. At about 6700 rpm's my boost will be at 14 psi.

Carcraz8
01-12-2015, 12:41 PM
Sweet thanks for that . It helps with the understanding of how this all works>

bainbridgeny
01-13-2015, 09:17 AM
How many MMs did you adjust the preload prior to the failure? And tune or piggyback along with the adjustmant?

Adjusted it to 5mm preload and have the TMC V1 box.

dr.jazzenstein
03-29-2015, 01:15 AM
I adjusted mine and it caused the wastegate to get stuck open

I have an early 2013 and adjusted it to ~4mm this afternoon. As expected very nice turbo response and a seeming increase in mpg for ~50 miles driving around in the evening. Parked it for a few hours at work and drove home later with what seems like a stuck wastegate. No boost and righteously loud exhaust while it was warming up. Any tips on diagnosing this? Is it possible I bent the WGA shaft prying it off the pin? This is the first mod on the car.

dr.jazzenstein
03-30-2015, 09:39 AM
All's well. I was chuckling to myself that the top comment in the video was someone asking for the Dart c-clip p/n... turns out mine came off on an industrial rode near home and went into limp mode. While sorting this, I was thinking about what this mod does, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but we're just adjusting the minimum response from the wga. As long as the ecu can still request zero boost and get it, no foul.