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View Full Version : Plasti dip Rims and stripes completed



MikeThinks
11-09-2013, 06:23 PM
I have finished my Stripes, mirrors, trim and Rims in Plasti Dip® decided to leave the red rim on the center caps, but blacked out the middle. I briefly considered doing the rims red, but a combination of needing to keep them clean and wanting the rims to look more stock won over.

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ksig421
11-09-2013, 06:28 PM
Looks awesome! I used to have plasti dip rims, but they are impossible to keep clean:banghead:
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MikeThinks
11-09-2013, 06:33 PM
Theres a few products that work well, BDP is particularly awesome. Spray on and rinse off all but the most crud infested rims and it doesnt bother the dip

ksig421
11-09-2013, 06:44 PM
Theres a few products that work well, BDP is particularly awesome. Spray on and rinse off all but the most crud infested rims and it doesnt bother the dip

I have used bdp before and really liked the product. It is really hard to clean them without ruining the dip. I had one of my tpm sensors go bad and the ls had to dismount the tire to replace it and when they did that they effed up the dip on one of the rims so it had to come off asap!That was the biggest reason that I dont have it anymore.

MikeThinks
11-09-2013, 07:24 PM
Yeah, when you get them dismounted the dip is going to get damaged. Good news is that you can REPAIR the dip without doing the whole tire. Most will tell you to get some solvent and melt the dip that way, but in a pinch, just get an old can of dip and spray without shacking into a little cup...POOF theres perfect dip solvent! Just rub along the area till you smooth it out, and then respray to blend in. DIP has its disadvantages for sure, and its just a temp fix till I need new tires at which points Ill probably get new rims too (17x8 sounds good LOL). But for the price of $30-$40, I cant complain vs the $500 to get the rims powder coated.

I was also very happy with how easy it was to do stripes.

ksig421
11-09-2013, 07:30 PM
Yeah, when you get them dismounted the dip is going to get damaged. Good news is that you can REPAIR the dip without doing the whole tire. Most will tell you to get some solvent and melt the dip that way, but in a pinch, just get an old can of dip and spray without shacking into a little cup...POOF theres perfect dip solvent! Just rub along the area till you smooth it out, and then respray to blend in. DIP has its disadvantages for sure, and its just a temp fix till I need new tires at which points Ill probably get new rims too (17x8 sounds good LOL). But for the price of $30-$40, I cant complain vs the $500 to get the rims powder coated.

I was also very happy with how easy it was to do stripes.
That is a really good idea! You are making me wanna dip my rims again lol. The stripes look really cool too!

ReconTopher
11-09-2013, 08:25 PM
Looks great, nice job!

2Cool
11-09-2013, 11:57 PM
Red plastidip on the stripes, then what did you use for the light edging?

I keep meaning to do an offset stripe in red dip on mine, done emblems and such in the past and liked the results.

MikeThinks
11-10-2013, 04:47 AM
Red plastidip on the stripes, then what did you use for the light edging?

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Just outlined it with regular pin stripe vinyl tape. Helps pull it all together, and thats how the "official" Scuderia stripes look :P I use the same pin stripe vinyl for the clean edge of the plasti dip since making curves is easy with the stuff and it peals off nicely while the dip is still wet (blue tape for the bulk of the mask, but vinyl for the sharp edges.

jennburr
11-16-2013, 11:20 PM
How hard was it to do the rims mike? I am going to be doing mine and need some pointers!

MikeThinks
11-17-2013, 02:17 AM
How hard was it to do the rims mike? I am going to be doing mine and need some pointers!

Nothing hard about it (except the constant squatting). You may need a little practice getting your technique down pat. The biggest (the way I do it anyway) trick is to get a good med-light first coat, but then go heavy. You want to get the later coats heavy so they are smooth, you can make multiple passes, but you want it to be nice a wet looking but stop just before you would get and drips (the stuff is pretty dang thick so you can go pretty heavy). If you go too light you will notice a rougher texture, and once that starts its hard to smooth it out. The great thing is if you mess up, its easy to just start over.

Be sure to check out some of the videos online, especially some of Fonzies vids that show the easy way to mask off your brakes with the wheels still on the car, and remember you DO NOT mask the tire...that will just peel off later.

Tweak
11-17-2013, 10:35 AM
Nothing hard about it (except the constant squatting). You may need a little practice getting your technique down pat. The biggest (the way I do it anyway) trick is to get a good med-light first coat, but then go heavy. You want to get the later coats heavy so they are smooth, you can make multiple passes, but you want it to be nice a wet looking but stop just before you would get and drips (the stuff is pretty dang thick so you can go pretty heavy). If you go too light you will notice a rougher texture, and once that starts its hard to smooth it out. The great thing is if you mess up, its easy to just start over.

Be sure to check out some of the videos online, especially some of Fonzies vids that show the easy way to mask off your brakes with the wheels still on the car, and remember you DO NOT mask the tire...that will just peel off later.

I think one thing to add to make it easier is warming it slightly either by letting it sit in the sun for a bit or some have dipped the can in warm/hot water, it applies much smoother this way.

jennburr
11-17-2013, 11:26 AM
Nothing hard about it (except the constant squatting). You may need a little practice getting your technique down pat. The biggest (the way I do it anyway) trick is to get a good med-light first coat, but then go heavy. You want to get the later coats heavy so they are smooth, you can make multiple passes, but you want it to be nice a wet looking but stop just before you would get and drips (the stuff is pretty dang thick so you can go pretty heavy). If you go too light you will notice a rougher texture, and once that starts its hard to smooth it out. The great thing is if you mess up, its easy to just start over.

Be sure to check out some of the videos online, especially some of Fonzies vids that show the easy way to mask off your brakes with the wheels still on the car, and remember you DO NOT mask the tire...that will just peel off later.


I am only doing parts of my wheels for just an accent. I have the paint mailing out Monday and I'm in Ohio so sadly I have to wait for the winter to be over before I can even begin to work on them :( but have you lowered your cat too? I need assistance on how low I can go before I have a rubbing issue.

MikeThinks
11-17-2013, 12:14 PM
I think one thing to add to make it easier is warming it slightly either by letting it sit in the sun for a bit or some have dipped the can in warm/hot water, it applies much smoother this way.

Good tip Tweak...being in Florida that was kind of a given for me!

Don't forget if your doing ACCENTS you will need to apply your coats after the base coat one right after the other before the dip dries 100%. You want it to just lose the wetness shine and do the next coat, and pull off your mask at the line edges right after you spray the final coat while its still 100% wet. This will give you crisp lines.

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I'm not sure how low you can go, but 2" has been done by many people. If you've never ridden in a dropped 500 or other small car, I would encourage you to do so before making the decision on how far to go. It all depends on just how much you want to personally experience ever

Rowtarded
11-17-2013, 12:54 PM
I just got done plastidipping all my chrome accents. Looks way better. Especially the door handles.

jennburr
11-17-2013, 04:37 PM
[QUOTE=MikeThinks;639802]Good tip Tweak...being in Florida that was kind of a given for me!

Don't forget if your doing ACCENTS you will need to apply your coats after the base coat one right after the other before the dip dries 100%. You want it to just lose the wetness shine and do the next coat, and pull off your mask at the line edges right after you spray the final coat while its still 100% wet. This will give you crisp lines.

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ok thanks mike you have been a great help! my co worker is looking into the springs for me he slams all his cars lol so I thought he would be best to research for me.