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jabird101
08-25-2013, 07:29 PM
I have a successful glovebox cooler upgrade for the 500L. It seems that there is a bit of confusion about the upper glovebox. In the US is it just that, another storage nook. Some, if not all of these units have a circular damper in the back that would control airflow, if it were connected to something. Rotating it all the way clockwise closes the vent, counter clockwise opens it.

The bullet points
It is a quick project
It is inexpensive (under $15.00)
It will keep your candy bars from melting
I will extend the cold for already cold cans of soda versus no extra cooling

My opinion: I had the parts on hand for this so I had no new cash outlay, but I still would have spent the $10 - $15 to do this. I will not replace a cooler for long trips. One it is too small, and two, it just doesn't get as cold as ice or an electric cooler.

You will need the following supplies if you want to do this yourself:
13" of 3/4" inside diameter hose (I used heavy duty fiberglass reinforced hose, but you don't need that, just make sure the INSIDE diameter is 3/4" not the outside)
1 - 3/4 angled hose barb with a 1/2" pipe thread on the other end.
Drill and unibit/stepbit

1) drop the glovebox
Use a screwdriver or knife to pop the stops off of each side of the box.
Then carefully lower it and unclip the recoil device front he left side. (don't worry if it slips out of your hand it wont recoil too far)
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2) Locate the connection on the back of the glovebox.
it is up and to the right in front of the steel tube.
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End of part 1 (only 5 pictures per post)

jabird101
08-25-2013, 07:46 PM
Part 2

Next locate the back of the duct on the right side of the stereo. This is up and to the left.
In this picture it is the piece of black plastic, that the flashlight is reflecting off of. Basically it is the first plastic piece you come to and is right where you would expect.
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Drill your hole on the flat corner of the duct I used a step drill or Unibit. These are good for thin materials and the duct is very thin, about 18 gauge.
I pulled the front trim off of the dash/radio so that I could see into the duct. It is easy to do, just use a knife to lift the right edge and then pull with your fingers. There are snaps every 4 inches or so.
You can see the hole in the duct from the inside. I drilled it frounder the dash. Plenty of room to drill this using a battery drill.
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End of part two...

jabird101
08-25-2013, 07:55 PM
Part three

Cut your hose to 13 inches. Longer than this, the hose will kink shorter and it will not be long enough.

connect it to the angled hose barb. No clamps needed since this is very low pressure. if you want to clamp, feel free
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Next push the open end onto the hose barb at the back of the glovebox
Then push the angled fitting into the Hole in the duct
The hose should rest on the cross member right above the glovebox. I put one small wire zip tie on it just to keep in from rattling.
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This is the end.

In anticipation of questions:

I chose this duct for a few reasons but mostly because it was the only one I could access from both sides without major disassembly

If you want to undo this, you can get a 1/2" electrical panel knockout plug filler plug or cover it with a piece of duct tape

Right before posting this I pulled out the plug and added a little scupper hood made from aluminum tape to grab the air. There was no real change in the airflow.

Andree
08-25-2013, 09:45 PM
I read the first version of the third post and the last thing to do was leave the hose on the ground. LOL! Looks like it totally fits right in there without any problem.

Just don't forget you have those candy bars in there and switch on the heat.

Melted chocolate in the glove box: Been there, done that.