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Ryephile
05-29-2013, 11:16 PM
After 60 pages of fleshing out what the boost leak is, what blocking it does, and how to fix it without angering the ECU program parameters, here's the full monty:

*The stock evaporative emissions setup is designed such that the car purges fuel vapors from the charcoal canister in two fashions; 1) most commonly while running the engine within turbo-boost, and 2) while the engine is at lower load in vacuum operation. In order to correctly purge the vapors in both scenarios, a split plumbing is required where one outlet is at the turbo compressor inlet and one is in the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Fiat decided to take a strange design twist on their plumbing to the turbo compressor inlet, and implemented a venturi T fitting and use boost pressure to force vapors through a complicated section of line. This solution creates a boost leak and unnecessary vapor restriction, and is in my opinion a sub-optimal evaporative emission solution on top of unusual versus the rest of the automotive industries' solution.

*I'm going to gloss over the variety of concepts all of us tried to solve the problem of fixing the boost leak while not creating a Check Engine Light (CEL) scenario. CEL's will occur when specific evaporative emission parameters aren't occurring as the Engine Control Unit (ECU) is expecting based on its sensor readings. These aren't necessarily an indication of a performance problem per se, but could also demonstrate the relatively narrow range of programmed behavior the ECU is expecting. It was my goal to find the operational endpoints of the ECU's evaporative emission strategy while also fixing the boost leak to improve drivability performance and pull the turbo compressor map away from the choke line during high power operation.

Dare I quote myself from the Free horsepower? thread:


Like dart1.4t said, you need both check valves to accommodate broadband Evap functionality during the two basic engine operational circumstances; boost and vacuum.

If you can picture it, the Evap line is a Y, one inlet, two outlets. Each outlet needs its own check valve. I'll try to explain it for everyone.
*The inlet is from the purge valve [the small cylinder thingie]. This flows the gasoline vapors from the charcoal canister from the gas tank.
*One outlet goes to the turbo inlet. This outlet flows vapors when the engine is running boost. The check valve is needed conversely when the engine is running vacuum to prevent a vacuum leak.
*The other outlet goes to the intake manifold. This outlet flows vapors when the engine is running vacuum. The check valve is needed conversely when the engine is running boost to prevent a boost leak and also pressurizing the charcoal canister.

Both check valves create a contained system that allows purge flow in all operational circumstance, but no cross contamination of boost or vacuum, sort to speak.

*The obvious first step is to block the boost leak. This is a line running from the driver-side boost tube exiting the intercoolers and headed towards the throttle body. This line needs to be capped and clamped to avoid leaking during the Abarth's ~18 PSI of boost at full throttle. This can be done with a simple rubber cap available from any local auto parts store and a 1/4"-5/8" worm clamp to keep it in place.

*The next step is to take out the evaporative emission lines that are causing the problem and install the new lines. Here's a diagram that shows what needs to be happen. Essentially, the line with two "X"s goes underneath the intake manifold and then up to the Venturi T needs to be cut out, with a rubber cap on the leftover T at the left-side "X" mark. The small loop in red is reusing the original 3/8" hose U-shape. The green dot is where you re-use the factory check valve embedded within the "X"'d out line. The long red line is where you plumb into the turbo compressor inlet line.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VDT6Al9bjvk/UZOcjv51wxI/AAAAAAAAAI8/rS663e6Crt4/s800/Evap_gen3.jpg


*Here is a Bill of Materials (BOM) that Shaggie put the link together that shows what needs to be ordered. Keep in mind some of this may be available in single quantities at your local auto parts or hardware store. Don't order a pack of 10 unless you really really love extras!

http://www.mcmaster.com/order/rcvRtedOrd.aspx?ordid=8117143966407&lnktyp=lnk


*Here is the video I put together that hopefully shows what is tough to explain in text:


http://youtu.be/HojNazpHiWo

The result should speak for itself during the 1st test drive. Part throttle actuation has greater resolution and control, and boost builds exactly as your foot commands instead of being erratic and over-reacting. You may also get an extra HP or two, but I haven't verified that, it's just theory. You should not get any CEL's, but this is not a guarantee as I cannot account for individual vehicle tolerances.

Here's a datalog plot I did that shows part throttle pedal versus MAP through casual 2nd and 3rd gear acceleration. Note smooth correlation between foot movement and boost changes. Not erratic at all.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cKhWivB6mgE/UZJCgijDw9I/AAAAAAAAAIU/N394J-iuuaA/s800/PartThrottle.jpg

I also have hours of datalogs that show the vapor pressure is similar to stock with this hardware configuration, so I'm confident the evaporative emission system is operating in a safe and predictable fashion very consistent with the OEM plumbing but exchanging the boost leak for low restriction emission line routing.

Cheers and I hope everyone finds this helpful,
Ryan

Tweak
05-30-2013, 12:24 AM
Sticky worthy and so it is...nice work.
:cool:

808Abarth
07-31-2013, 03:51 PM
wow amazing write up!! Quality on this forum for sure!!

Ryephile
09-30-2013, 04:38 PM
Tiny update: As more people do this I'm getting some feedback. Some cars have gone >10k miles with no codes pending. Other cars have gone as little as 100 miles and have posted a CEL. I can't account for variances in installation, so assuming they're all correct it's possible the ECU is sensitive yet there is some production tolerance at play.

What I can say for certain is the code most prevalent is P1CEA, and despite the workshop manual description, is posting during 0% commanded purge. This tells me the workshop manual is not telling the whole story, or the proverbial intern haphazardly rushed out the Evap calibration (curiously common). From my datalogging, a correctly implemented Evap re-route has slightly better vapor flow than the stock configuration with the boost leak. This slight improvement in flow is likely the source of the false positive CEL some cars are getting.

Put simply, it works better than stock but the ECU isn't programmed to tolerate that. Moving forward, I still stand by this fix as it significantly improves the part-throttle drivability, and IMO it's worth the risk of having the CEL, especially knowing it's a false positive.

I hope that helps,
Ryan

lillo24
10-09-2013, 02:41 AM
After 60 pages of fleshing out what the boost leak is, what blocking it does, and how to fix it without angering the ECU program parameters, here's the full monty:

*The stock evaporative emissions setup is designed such that the car purges fuel vapors from the charcoal canister in two fashions; 1) most commonly while running the engine within turbo-boost, and 2) while the engine is at lower load in vacuum operation. In order to correctly purge the vapors in both scenarios, a split plumbing is required where one outlet is at the turbo compressor inlet and one is in the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Fiat decided to take a strange design twist on their plumbing to the turbo compressor inlet, and implemented a venturi T fitting and use boost pressure to force vapors through a complicated section of line. This solution creates a boost leak and unnecessary vapor restriction, and is in my opinion a sub-optimal evaporative emission solution on top of unusual versus the rest of the automotive industries' solution.

*I'm going to gloss over the variety of concepts all of us tried to solve the problem of fixing the boost leak while not creating a Check Engine Light (CEL) scenario. CEL's will occur when specific evaporative emission parameters aren't occurring as the Engine Control Unit (ECU) is expecting based on its sensor readings. These aren't necessarily an indication of a performance problem per se, but could also demonstrate the relatively narrow range of programmed behavior the ECU is expecting. It was my goal to find the operational endpoints of the ECU's evaporative emission strategy while also fixing the boost leak to improve drivability performance and pull the turbo compressor map away from the choke line during high power operation.

Dare I quote myself from the Free horsepower? thread:



*The obvious first step is to block the boost leak. This is a line running from the driver-side boost tube exiting the intercoolers and headed towards the throttle body. This line needs to be capped and clamped to avoid leaking during the Abarth's ~18 PSI of boost at full throttle. This can be done with a simple rubber cap available from any local auto parts store and a 1/4"-5/8" worm clamp to keep it in place.

*The next step is to take out the evaporative emission lines that are causing the problem and install the new lines. Here's a diagram that shows what needs to be happen. Essentially, the line with two "X"s goes underneath the intake manifold and then up to the Venturi T needs to be cut out, with a rubber cap on the leftover T at the left-side "X" mark. The small loop in red is reusing the original 3/8" hose U-shape. The green dot is where you re-use the factory check valve embedded within the "X"'d out line. The long red line is where you plumb into the turbo compressor inlet line.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VDT6Al9bjvk/UZOcjv51wxI/AAAAAAAAAI8/rS663e6Crt4/s800/Evap_gen3.jpg


*Here is a Bill of Materials (BOM) that Shaggie put the link together that shows what needs to be ordered. Keep in mind some of this may be available in single quantities at your local auto parts or hardware store. Don't order a pack of 10 unless you really really love extras!

http://www.mcmaster.com/order/rcvRtedOrd.aspx?ordid=8117143966407&lnktyp=lnk


*Here is the video I put together that hopefully shows what is tough to explain in text:


http://youtu.be/HojNazpHiWo

The result should speak for itself during the 1st test drive. Part throttle actuation has greater resolution and control, and boost builds exactly as your foot commands instead of being erratic and over-reacting. You may also get an extra HP or two, but I haven't verified that, it's just theory. You should not get any CEL's, but this is not a guarantee as I cannot account for individual vehicle tolerances.

Here's a datalog plot I did that shows part throttle pedal versus MAP through casual 2nd and 3rd gear acceleration. Note smooth correlation between foot movement and boost changes. Not erratic at all.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cKhWivB6mgE/UZJCgijDw9I/AAAAAAAAAIU/N394J-iuuaA/s800/PartThrottle.jpg

I also have hours of datalogs that show the vapor pressure is similar to stock with this hardware configuration, so I'm confident the evaporative emission system is operating in a safe and predictable fashion very consistent with the OEM plumbing but exchanging the boost leak for low restriction emission line routing.

Cheers and I hope everyone finds this helpful,
Ryan



nice lotus exige s!! love that car...

musicsurf
10-09-2013, 08:41 AM
Tiny update: As more people do this I'm getting some feedback. Some cars have gone >10k miles with no codes pending. Other cars have gone as little as 100 miles and have posted a CEL. I can't account for variances in installation, so assuming they're all correct it's possible the ECU is sensitive yet there is some production tolerance at play.

What I can say for certain is the code most prevalent is P1CEA, and despite the workshop manual description, is posting during 0% commanded purge. This tells me the workshop manual is not telling the whole story, or the proverbial intern haphazardly rushed out the Evap calibration (curiously common). From my datalogging, a correctly implemented Evap re-route has slightly better vapor flow than the stock configuration with the boost leak. This slight improvement in flow is likely the source of the false positive CEL some cars are getting.

Put simply, it works better than stock but the ECU isn't programmed to tolerate that. Moving forward, I still stand by this fix as it significantly improves the part-throttle drivability, and IMO it's worth the risk of having the CEL, especially knowing it's a false positive.

I hope that helps,
Ryan

There is a TCB for the P1CEA code. They have also added the P0456 code as well.

DesmosDromos
10-30-2013, 10:59 AM
Ryephile, first, thanks for this! I read most of the free horsepower thread with interest and appreciate your dedication to the community in developing what seems to be the best solution to the boost leak while still allowing evap purge.

I set out to do this mod over the weekend after reading and watching the video many times. The thing I'm still struggling with is how hard it is to see behind the motor to figure out where I need to cut and cap. Do you have some close ups of the finished solution you could post? I understand what I need to cut/cap and why, but I can't see where those lines terminate back there and doing it blind seems like a bad idea.

In your diagram it's mostly the X on the right that concerns me as i figure I can pull the T on the left and cap at the bottom.

Thanks!

doadea
10-30-2013, 11:12 AM
Ryephile, first, thanks for this! I read most of the free horsepower thread with interest and appreciate your dedication to the community in developing what seems to be the best solution to the boost leak while still allowing evap purge.

I set out to do this mod over the weekend after reading and watching the video many times. The thing I'm still struggling with is how hard it is to see behind the motor to figure out where I need to cut and cap. Do you have some close ups of the finished solution you could post? I understand what I need to cut/cap and why, but I can't see where those lines terminate back there and doing it blind seems like a bad idea.

In your diagram it's mostly the X on the right that concerns me as i figure I can pull the T on the left and cap at the bottom.

Thanks!


I am getting ready to do this mod as well, I have all the parts. I second Desmos Request. ;)

Ryephile
10-30-2013, 11:13 AM
Most of the line you remove (the two "X"s in the diagram) is totally blind and underneath the intake manifold. I agree it's not easy. In the diagram, you end up capping the driver-side "X". It's the only unused opening once you remove the stock line, it becomes obvious once you're in there doing it.

In the video, what gets cut and left out of the car is at 0:15, and the new that goes back in the car is at 1:15. Hopefully that helps.

DesmosDromos
10-30-2013, 11:18 AM
Thanks for the prompt reply. Maybe I'll stick my iphone or GoPro back there and take a couple pics so I have a better idea. If so, I'll post them. So are the lines to be removed just friction fit on a barb connector such that I can just yank em out and then feel around for where to cap?

musicsurf
10-30-2013, 11:41 AM
I strayed from Ryephile's instructions a little bit after I had to switch back to stock to bring my car in for a P0456 code. So far it is working exactly the same as it did originally. The hose that you are to cut loops from the Tee and ends at the quick connect for the long hose that is plumbed into charge pipe. That loopy hose contains the check valve that you are to reuse. Now, the hose that the loopy hose tee's into also contains a check valve albeit a larger one. As the hose heads to the drivers side it connects to a rubber hose and then terminates onto what I can only imagine is a valve. I replaced this entire hose with the same hose (fuel hose) used to make the wye. I had already hacked up the original hose so didn't have any problem scavenging the check valve from it. I am going to be doing this on someone else's car and already purchased 2 kynar check valves so there will be no cutting involved and the hoses will be saved just in case it ever needs to be returned to stock for warranty reasons. The check valves I purchased have similar specs to the Boomba, just a little weaker. Like I said, I haven't had any issues but the fuel hose doesn't like to bend perfectly to be plugged into the other valve so the original pre-formed hose could be reused with a 3/8 to 3/8 connector to join the two hoses together. On mine I also did away with the hard emissions line running to the intake but scavenged the quick connect to make removing the hose from from the intake easier. I routed it a little differently from stock but it is working flawlessly. I had an issue with my car and had to bring it in under warranty soon after I purchased it. I knew they were going to have to dig around to fix the problem so ordered new hoses to return it to stock. The long hose running from the charge pipe took FOREVER because it had to be made. That is the main reason I devised a way to do the reroute without any cutting. One thing to note if you are going to remove the hose in order to see where to cut or if you are going to replace it completely. There is another hose back there that you leave alone in the reroute. It does make it easier to get to the clamp if you unclip this hose from where it is held in place. There is a very small length and diameter silicone hose that runs vertically from this hose to another purge valve. It easily comes off and the only way to tell if it did is by feeling. Make sure you check and if it has come off, obviously put it back on.

doadea
10-31-2013, 09:36 AM
Ok, I took some shots of the stock unmodified lines, so maybe someone can use them to create a guide or something:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/doadea/20131031_082159_zpsf9a8241a.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/doadea/media/20131031_082159_zpsf9a8241a.jpg.html)

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/doadea/20131031_082243_zps4fb50316.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/doadea/media/20131031_082243_zps4fb50316.jpg.html)

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/doadea/20131031_082234_zps67263784.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/doadea/media/20131031_082234_zps67263784.jpg.html)

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/doadea/20131031_082222_zpsf091a3f6.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/doadea/media/20131031_082222_zpsf091a3f6.jpg.html)

DesmosDromos
10-31-2013, 01:36 PM
I think this drawing from the admin in the Free Horsepower thread is what we needed! http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/showthread.php?6720-Free-horespower&p=605196&viewfull=1#post605196

musicsurf
10-31-2013, 10:47 PM
If I had it all to do over again I would buy #2 in this diagram for $8.
http://www.fiatpartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1098529&ukey_make=1200&ukey_model=19431&ukey_category=24819&ukey_trimLevel=20705

That would allow you to scavenge a quick connect, and both factory check valves. That with the fuel hose, wye, and caps would allow you to replace everything without cutting any of the stock lines. No one else had this problem, but I popped the EPDM caps like balloons on my charge pipe. I ended up ordering the silicone caps from Mcmaster-Carr for piece of mind.

ophidia31
11-01-2013, 04:35 PM
Maybe Im confused/missing something about what this method accomplishes, but looking at the free power thread and the boost leak discovery within at the first few pages, it seems the check valve at the charge tube does the trick without having to reroute anything.

DesmosDromos
11-01-2013, 09:06 PM
Maybe Im confused/missing something about what this method accomplishes, but looking at the free power thread and the boost leak discovery within at the first few pages, it seems the check valve at the charge tube does the trick without having to reroute anything.
It minimizes the chance of a thrown code since it allows the system to better purge evap vapors than that solution.

shagghie
11-01-2013, 11:10 PM
Mildly better for the environment too.

ophidia31
11-03-2013, 03:11 PM
Got ya. Ill eventually make it through the rest of that thread. About halfway still. lol

musicsurf
11-19-2013, 07:27 PM
This is my very slight adaptation of Ryephiles EVAP reroute. Mainly I did it this way is to avoid cutting the expensive, longer line & to make it so there only had to be one location capped. I had to bring my car in because it wouldn't start not long after I did this mod (in no way related to the mod), & before I did, I wanted to return the car to stock. It took almost three weeks for me to get the longer EVAP hose & it is not cheap at about $90.
Read entirely before starting.
Parts list.

Tools needed:
Intakes vary so whichever tools you need to remove the intake & the air box, heat shield, etc.
Razor knife
Flathead or socket for the worm drive, I believe it's 1/4"
A good pair of scissors or something to make a reasonably clean cut through the fuel line
Pliers
53055K156 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/166/=phy8f8) X 1
92805K15 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3746/=phy8tm) X 1
5011T141 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/280/=phy94g) X 1
54605K34 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/271/=phy9ct) - 6 ft
53055K118 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/166/=phy9so) X 1
http://www.fiatpartswebstore.com/products/FIAT/500X-ABARTH-HATCHBACK/HOSE-Purge/8423588/04627466AB.html

For those of you that bought parts already after me mentioning this in another thread, I added something, a 3/8 barbed connector. It can be purchased at any auto parts store as the Dorman brand connectors. This alleviates the only possible snag in my mind to this working perfectly even though I have had no issues with the way I first did it. The need for the hose arises because parts need to be scavenged from it regardless of how you do this mod & just in case you ever need to switch back, you will have an intact hose to do so.

Start by removing your intake if it goes towards the back of the engine bay, the air box if you have one, the heat shield if you have one. Basically you want to get everything out of the way so you have access to the back of the engine bay where the EVAP lines live. You will also want to remove your battery & battery tray. It's not absolutely necessary to do so as it can all be accessed from the bottom, but it makes life a lot easier especially if you haven't done this before. You want it to look like this:

http://s19.postimg.org/fv11lu8oj/IMG_4849_marked.jpg

Note the line marked with a red x. This line needs to be removed. Disconnect it from the quick connect & then it runs to the intake and is connected with a tab and a clip. It also runs to the charge pipe & also is clipped in at a few points. Take the pliers & move the spring clamp so you can pull the hose off from the charge pipe. If need be, GENTLY use a flathead. Once you have that undone just put it aside you won't be touching it anymore.

Next you are going to want to get some stuff out of the way to make life easier on the hardest part of the whole install. Locate the purge valve & remove the quick connect & the electrical connection as pictured.

http://s19.postimg.org/laed0jpmb/IMG_4853.jpg

Pull the purge valve of by pushing it toward the firewall, watch to see if the rubber piece comes off with it and don't lose it.

http://s19.postimg.org/ysl9cu1rn/IMG_4854.jpg

Next you are going to want to remove the same line that you ordered. Looking at the one you ordered will help you grasp where it goes. The part with the smaller check valve loops around the back of the engine & terminates at the quick connect. It is snapped in at two or three places in the back & at the quick connect. With that done, you will want to unclip the line that was connected to the purge valve, & then unclip the line you were working on completely. This leaves that line connected one more place & this is the difficult part. It runs to a nipple that goes into the intake manifold. I wish I could get a good picture of this, but it's pretty much impossible. You really just have to feel for it. The spring clip is difficult to get pliers on but is strong so they are a necessity. Be careful, this clamp is under a decent amount of tension & if it slips can catch your finger. There's no real danger in it, but it doesn't feel good. Once you can get it opened, you will have to slide it up away from the nipple. Once that's done you can pull the hose off and remove the whole thing.

http://s19.postimg.org/vpkj9gmsz/IMG_4857.jpg
http://s19.postimg.org/6m3gpgp6b/IMG_4858.jpg
http://s19.postimg.org/5l380c86r/IMG_4861.jpg

Once all that is done, this is what you should be working with.

http://s19.postimg.org/k2vtula43/IMG_4848.jpg

You are going to want to separate the hard emissions hose from the one side of the large check valve, both sides of the small check valve, & the quick connect. The easiest way to do this is to take a razor knife & make a slit through the hard line which should allow you to pull the line off. Be careful not to go crazy and cut big chunks out of the valves. You can also remove the pre-bent hose from the purge valve & the tee. You will be reusing it.

http://s19.postimg.org/p47t9p6yb/IMG_4862.jpg
http://s19.postimg.org/nrupljywj/IMG_4863.jpg
http://s19.postimg.org/mbelpo6lv/IMG_4864.jpg
http://s19.postimg.org/rphzaylpv/IMG_4866.jpg

Now you are going to cut the fuel line. You will need a 3.5" section, and 1 3/8" section, a 2" section, & roughly an 18-20 inch section. The last one will need to be trimmed down to fit your particular car. I did check to make sure it would work with an airbox, but I don't know exactly what length it would need to be.

http://s19.postimg.org/xvjfhpfn7/IMG_4868.jpg

Take the 1 3/8" section & push it onto the 3/8" connector, then push it onto the open end of the large check valve. It won't completely seat, but that's okay because it does seal & this way the hose fits into the OEM connections easily & without compromising the seal. There is a possibility that the length of the barbed connector I linked to in the parts list is a different length than the Dorman one. Being that, it is possible you may have to use a slightly different length than 1 3/8" to get the appropriate fit. Connect the pre-bent hose to the other end of the barbed connector. Set aside.

http://s19.postimg.org/ep68eiz5f/IMG_4869.jpg

Take the 3.5 inch section of hose and connect it to the grey side of the small check valve (in) & the longer hose you cut to the black side (out). Do not connect the quick connect yet, it's just pictured for reference.

http://s19.postimg.org/yow1ablo3/IMG_4872.jpg

Reconnect the driver side part of the hose to the nipple on the intake manifold & again get ahold of the two tabs on the clamp but this time slide it back down over the nipple. Feel for correct placement. The hose should pass in front of the hose that connects to the purge valve via a quick connect. You should be able to clip the left side of the large check valve back into the oem location & the barbed fitting should sit inside the other one. If the hose were to fit in here it pushes it out on the barbed fitting and could potentially be a leak. I decided that reusing the original pre-bent hose is a better option because this is the only point I saw being a possible problem. The fuel line doesn't make that tight radius turn very well. I had no problems with it this way in 5k+ miles though. Snap the hose that runs to the purge valve back into place. Just to be on the safe side, feel down that hose & you should come to a thin, short silicone hose that runs straight down. Just make sure that hose is connected to the nipple that is there. If it's not connected there will be a small EVAP leak & you will pop a P0456 code.

http://s19.postimg.org/5ceu1wa5v/IMG_4875.jpg
http://s19.postimg.org/woa338ewj/IMG_4876.jpg

Reattach the purge valve including the electrical connection & quick connect & put the 2" section of hose onto the nipple on the opposite side. Push the wye in as shown & attach the pre-bent line.

http://s19.postimg.org/6iiu0oygj/IMG_4877.jpg

Attach the 3.5" section of the longer line to the last open part of the wye.

http://s19.postimg.org/4coj66v03/IMG_4879.jpg

Now we need to cap the hole on the charge pipe. You will want to cut the cap as shown. I like to make mine as seated as possible to take the seam out of play just to be safe. Also just to be safe, I use the part that I cut off to make a sleeve just slightly wider than the worm drive in order to keep any chance of the worm drive biting into the cap from happening. I had this happen a couple times at first & blew caps out while driving leaving me with a gaping boost leak. Soap & water are your friend when getting the cap & sleeve on. Once they are on slip the worm drive over & tighten. There is no need to go crazy tightening it down, it just needs to be firm.

http://s19.postimg.org/6wk60aik3/IMG_4878.jpg

Reattach the intake & cut the line to have a smooth bend to allow for sufficient purging. Push in the quick connect & reattach as normal to the intake. Having looked at the stock airbox, I believe you should still be able to route the line as I did since that part of the box is raised.

Now just put your car back together! Sometimes starting your car after the ecu has reset will result in a very brief rough idle or possibly a stall. Don't panic, there's nothing wrong. If you run into any problems or have any questions, don't hesitate to ask! All credit for this goes to Ryephile as I just barely changed his original reroute.

trevc
11-20-2013, 10:03 AM
Those are the kind of instructions I needed! Thank you very much for spending the time to do this. Great detail!

BigT
11-20-2013, 10:27 AM
Hmm I'm still paranoid about trying this my ogre hands always wind up breaking clips and other fragile things that shouldn't be broken during an install lol. Directions however are pretty amazing though. If I wanted to just use the boomba check valve method what line does that go in?

musicsurf
11-20-2013, 10:58 AM
Hmm I'm still paranoid about trying this my ogre hands always wind up breaking clips and other fragile things that shouldn't be broken during an install lol. Directions however are pretty amazing though. If I wanted to just use the boomba check valve method what line does that go in?

It goes where the long line goes into the charge pipe, you have to add some extra hose.

Ryephile
11-20-2013, 12:08 PM
Killer directions Michael! beerchug Thank you for taking the time to do that. It helps to show the full assembly out of the car.

BigT
11-20-2013, 02:00 PM
It goes where the long line goes into the charge pipe, you have to add some extra hose.

Thanks I think I'll give the boomba a shot first and if no CEL then I'll just roll with that. If I get CEL repeatedly I'll suck it up and give the Ryephile/musicsurf modified method :) and hopefully don't break stuff in the process lol.

jflexe99
11-21-2013, 02:30 PM
Looking at where I can find the items locally. Going to do this mod when I get my car back.

musicsurf
11-21-2013, 02:36 PM
Looking at where I can find the items locally. Going to do this mod when I get my car back.

You won't be able to find a wye more than likely and if you're going to order that from McMaster Carr you might as well get all of it from them.

ophidia31
11-21-2013, 09:19 PM
So, been looking at either solution and it seems youre basically just rerouting the charge pipe line into the intake. Could you not just put a t in the line going into the intake and just run the line that hooks into the charge pipe to the t fitting then cap off the charge pipe connection? Not doubting the solutions, just wondering why you have to do all this work just to vent back into the intake again.

musicsurf
11-21-2013, 10:13 PM
So, been looking at either solution and it seems youre basically just rerouting the charge pipe line into the intake. Could you not just put a t in the line going into the intake and just run the line that hooks into the charge pipe to the t fitting then cap off the charge pipe connection? Not doubting the solutions, just wondering why you have to do all this work just to vent back into the intake again.

In order for the system to purge correctly this way it needs to have as little distance to travel as possible and for everything to be smooth. The huge jumbled mess that is the stock EVAP lines is prohibitive to this and likely why the boost leak was added to aid in purging the system. If you want to do it the way you are talking about, its pretty much the same as putting in the check valve or capping.

jflexe99
11-21-2013, 11:06 PM
You won't be able to find a wye more than likely and if you're going to order that from McMaster Carr you might as well get all of it from them.

I know there are stores that carry wye pieces. That or I can order one in at a local business, most likely. Ridiculous to buy 10 or 20 of em...ha.

msjulie33
11-21-2013, 11:29 PM
I'm wondering how many folks might be willing to pay for a "kit" from Musicsurf..

jflexe99
11-21-2013, 11:48 PM
Found this site...only thing is the measurements are ID for the Y connectors...so I am thinking 1/4 should work with 3/8 ID tube.... for 60 cents per piece...not a big loss...

http://www.freshwatersystems.com/search2.aspx?keywords=FITQUIK+NYLON+UNION+Y+BARB+F ITTING

musicsurf
11-22-2013, 12:07 AM
Found this site...only thing is the measurements are ID for the Y connectors...so I am thinking 1/4 should work with 3/8 ID tube.... for 60 cents per piece...not a big loss...

http://www.freshwatersystems.com/search2.aspx?keywords=FITQUIK+NYLON+UNION+Y+BARB+F ITTING

Fair warning, the people that have had issues with this mod are the ones that tried to change things. If you restrict the flow by using 1/4 inch wye or decide to use something made of a material that isn't going to hold up against gas fumes, don't be surprised if it fails or you pop codes. I have done it EXACTLY the way Ryephile outlined as well as the way I outlined with no issues or codes what so ever over thousands of miles. If you decide to change how you do the mod please don't blame it if you pop codes.

jflexe99
11-22-2013, 12:11 AM
Fair warning, the people that have had issues with this mod are the ones that tried to change things. If you restrict the flow by using 1/4 inch wye or decide to use something made of a material that isn't going to hold up against gas fumes, don't be surprised if it fails or you pop codes. I have done it EXACTLY the way Ryephile outlined as well as the way I outlined with no issues or codes what so ever over thousands of miles. If you decide to change how you do the mod please don't blame it if you pop codes.



Fair enough. I can understand the Wye and tubing being right. The hose clamps and plug don't need to be anything special. Can find them anywhere.

musicsurf
11-22-2013, 12:12 AM
I'm wondering how many folks might be willing to pay for a "kit" from Musicsurf..

Thanks but this whole thing is all Ryephile. I wouldn't have any desire to sell this anyways. The wye and barbed connector are both sold singly and the caps are cheap enough. If you want, I'm sure you could source the clamps for less. Putting the hose together is super easy, its just the install and really only pulling the one end of the hose that's a pain.

musicsurf
11-22-2013, 12:14 AM
Fair enough. I can understand the Wye and tubing being right. The hose clamps and plug don't need to be anything special. Can find them anywhere.

You can find EPDM anywhere but not silicone. Ryan has had no issues with his but I blew a few out on the charge pipe.

msjulie33
11-22-2013, 10:20 AM
Thanks but this whole thing is all Ryephile. I wouldn't have any desire to sell this anyways. The wye and barbed connector are both sold singly and the caps are cheap enough. If you want, I'm sure you could source the clamps for less. Putting the hose together is super easy, its just the install and really only pulling the one end of the hose that's a pain.

Ok thanks, I thought I read that some bits were sold in groups.. gotta collect up all the part numbers. Thanks

ophidia31
11-22-2013, 11:39 AM
In order for the system to purge correctly this way it needs to have as little distance to travel as possible and for everything to be smooth. The huge jumbled mess that is the stock EVAP lines is prohibitive to this and likely why the boost leak was added to aid in purging the system. If you want to do it the way you are talking about, its pretty much the same as putting in the check valve or capping.


Got ya. Im more of a chassis/suspension guy so when it comes to engine modifications i like to know the whys of how things are done.

musicsurf
11-22-2013, 11:11 PM
Ok thanks, I thought I read that some bits were sold in groups.. gotta collect up all the part numbers. Thanks

On the "how to" I wrote up there is a link to a BOM through Mcmaster-Carr. If you just click on it, it will bring you to their site with the order already on the page.

streetsurfer
11-22-2013, 11:49 PM
On the "how to" I wrote up there is a link to a BOM through Mcmaster-Carr. If you just click on it, it will bring you to their site with the order already on the page.

I clicked your link to McMaster Carr the other day and it seemed to take me to a blank M/C order page which was probably your order but couldn't see it since not signed in as you. You might check the link from a different location or logged out of their site because it was and may still be a bad link for others to view it.

I tried but I can't get my prnt scrn to work, but it is a blank order page and not the product page itself.

musicsurf
11-23-2013, 12:25 AM
I clicked your link to McMaster Carr the other day and it seemed to take me to a blank M/C order page which was probably your order but couldn't see it since not signed in as you. You might check the link from a different location or logged out of their site because it was and may still be a bad link for others to view it.

I tried but I can't get my prnt scrn to work, but it is a blank order page and not the product page itself.

Man that's annoying. Thank you for letting me know. Here are the links and quantities:

53055K156 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/166/=phy8f8) Sanitary White PVDF Barbed Tube Fitting, Wye for 3/8" Tube ID - 1
92805K15 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3746/=phy8tm) Push-on High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Cap, Fits .295" Outside Diameter, 1-1/2" Inside Height, packs of 10 - 1
5011T141 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/280/=phy94g) 316 Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose & Tube Clamp, 7/32" to 5/8" Clamp Diameter Range, 5/16" Band Width, packs of 10 - 1
54605K34 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/271/=phy9ct) Low Pressure SAE Fuel Hose, 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD, 50 PSI, Black - 6 ft
53055K118 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/166/=phy9so) Sanitary White PVDF Barbed Tube Fitting, Straight for 3/8" Tube ID - 1

Tweak, is there any way this parts list can get added to the "how to" in place of the link to Mcmaster-Carr? Thanks

streetsurfer
11-23-2013, 12:35 AM
Glad to help, and thank you for reposting the parts list.

Tweak
11-23-2013, 01:16 AM
Man that's annoying. Thank you for letting me know. Here are the links and quantities:

53055K156 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/166/=phy8f8) Sanitary White PVDF Barbed Tube Fitting, Wye for 3/8" Tube ID - 1
92805K15 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3746/=phy8tm) Push-on High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Cap, Fits .295" Outside Diameter, 1-1/2" Inside Height, packs of 10 - 1
5011T141 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/280/=phy94g) 316 Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose & Tube Clamp, 7/32" to 5/8" Clamp Diameter Range, 5/16" Band Width, packs of 10 - 1
54605K34 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/271/=phy9ct) Low Pressure SAE Fuel Hose, 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD, 50 PSI, Black - 6 ft
53055K118 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/166/=phy9so) Sanitary White PVDF Barbed Tube Fitting, Straight for 3/8" Tube ID - 1

Tweak, is there any way this parts list can get added to the "how to" in place of the link to Mcmaster-Carr? Thanks

You'll have to shorten things by 248 characters for that to be added Mike, it currently exceeds the limits and thus cannot be added at the moment in the current state.

musicsurf
11-23-2013, 01:21 AM
You'll have to shorten things by 248 characters for that to be added Mike, it currently exceeds the limits and thus cannot be added at the moment in the current state.

It couldn't just be easy could it. Is there any way to make the post able to be edited by me again, or do you have to do it?

Tweak
11-23-2013, 01:25 AM
It couldn't just be easy could it. Is there any way to make the post able to be edited by me again, or do you have to do it?

If you cannot edit currently then only Chris or I (or EliRider of course) can edit it now and only Chris can edit permissions to allow you the ability to edit it, sorry buddy. I know here the time allowed for editing is much longer than the red forum but I guess after awhile it is not longer available. You could remove the descriptions and leave the model numbers/links and likely be good to go...your call.

musicsurf
11-23-2013, 01:28 AM
If you cannot edit currently then only Chris or I (or EliRider of course) can edit it now and only Chris can edit permissions to allow you the ability to edit it, sorry buddy. I know here the time allowed for editing is much longer than the red forum but I guess after awhile it is not longer available. You could remove the descriptions and leave the model numbers/links and likely be good to go...your call.

That works, thanks Tweak!

Tweak
11-23-2013, 03:36 PM
That works, thanks Tweak!

Hey Mike, it required more than that but I made minor wording changes while keeping the same intent as well and using & in place of and, removed the product descriptions and placed links to each, overall not much changed but I had to keep cutting it down about 5 times to meet the maximum character limit. I do not think you'll find issue with any of the changes but I wanted to make sure you were aware of the fact I did have to make them as I don't like to alter someone's work you know. Anyway, it looks to be good now, hope it is to your satisfaction.

musicsurf
11-23-2013, 04:00 PM
Hey Mike, it required more than that but I made minor wording changes while keeping the same intent as well and using & in place of and, removed the product descriptions and placed links to each, overall not much changed but I had to keep cutting it down about 5 times to meet the maximum character limit. I do not think you'll find issue with any of the changes but I wanted to make sure you were aware of the fact I did have to make them as I don't like to alter someone's work you know. Anyway, it looks to be good now, hope it is to your satisfaction.

I'm sure it's perfect and sorry if it was a hassle. Thanks!

Tweak
11-23-2013, 11:04 PM
I'm sure it's perfect and sorry if it was a hassle. Thanks!

No hassle or problem, just making you aware of the minor changes, thanks for taking the time to share with the community.

ophidia31
11-25-2013, 09:51 PM
Musicsurf, what are the chances for a section of that charge pipe made as an aftermarket replacement? Maybe from AAD if theyd do that sort of thing?

tknospdr
11-27-2013, 08:32 PM
Spent some great time chatting with musicsurf today. Parts for this mod on order. Very excited!

musicsurf
11-27-2013, 10:10 PM
Musicsurf, what are the chances for a section of that charge pipe made as an aftermarket replacement? Maybe from AAD if theyd do that sort of thing?

Believe it or not I have thought about that as well. I could see it being a possibility if someone did a turbo upgrade in which the bov function was different and needed to be integrated into the charge pipe. Just for getting rid of the boost leak, it would likely be an expensive piece of tubing with a place for the boost sensor that very few people would buy.

jflexe99
11-27-2013, 11:21 PM
Need a high temp rubber plug? I grabbed a rubber plug from Lowes that's good measurements for 65 cents or so.

trevc
11-30-2013, 08:03 PM
Thanks again to Ryephile for his work on designing this mod and to musicsurf for the excellent instructions.
I removed my Boomba Racing check valve today and installed this mod. Did a quick 40 mile run at varying speeds and so far no CEL or pending codes.

One thing that was interesting; my car (very early 2012 build) had two small check-valves rather than the one large and one small that came on the new evap harness I got from Fiat.
I wonder if this is why it has been so sensitive to the check-valve mod? Even with the Boomba it would occasionally throw the p1cea code.

Hopefully it will not throw evap codes from now on!

jflexe99
12-03-2013, 12:21 PM
I am having problems figuring out the two lines under the canister....here are two pictures
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag32/Jordon_Flexer/EVAPlines_zpsccf7918c.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Jordon_Flexer/media/EVAPlines_zpsccf7918c.jpg.html)
The blue circled line is the line that goes to the venturi. How do I disconnect it from the bottom? Cut and cap with rubber cap where the pink balls are?
What about the yellow circled line? I only see one line taken out of the video...I have two lines under the canister so I am confused. Here is another picture I took this morning.
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag32/Jordon_Flexer/AbarthLinescopy_zps76ed9bd6.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Jordon_Flexer/media/AbarthLinescopy_zps76ed9bd6.jpg.html)
The left one is the venture line, the one with the ? mark is the one I am having problems figuring out. It is the same line as the yellow circled line in the other photo. What do I do with it? Cut and cap? Thats it? Leave it alone?

Also, I get this part, but making sure. The line where the venturi meets. I cut off the right side, cap, left side I cut(or do I pull it off?) and reconnect the new tubing with the Y connector to canister.

Sorry it is a lot of questions, but I want to make sure I am going to do it right...I want me no boost leak :P

musicsurf
12-03-2013, 12:47 PM
I am having problems figuring out the two lines under the canister....here are two pictures
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag32/Jordon_Flexer/EVAPlines_zpsccf7918c.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Jordon_Flexer/media/EVAPlines_zpsccf7918c.jpg.html)
The blue circled line is the line that goes to the venturi. How do I disconnect it from the bottom? Cut and cap with rubber cap where the pink balls are?
What about the yellow circled line? I only see one line taken out of the video...I have two lines under the canister so I am confused. Here is another picture I took this morning.
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag32/Jordon_Flexer/AbarthLinescopy_zps76ed9bd6.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Jordon_Flexer/media/AbarthLinescopy_zps76ed9bd6.jpg.html)
The left one is the venture line, the one with the ? mark is the one I am having problems figuring out. It is the same line as the yellow circled line in the other photo. What do I do with it? Cut and cap? Thats it? Leave it alone?

Also, I get this part, but making sure. The line where the venturi meets. I cut off the right side, cap, left side I cut(or do I pull it off?) and reconnect the new tubing with the Y connector to canister.

Sorry it is a lot of questions, but I want to make sure I am going to do it right...I want me no boost leak :P

Look at the pictures in the how-to I wrote up. I took so many for a reason. It's the same line and just snaps into the 3 or 4 along it's run. The left one is gone once you cut and cap the right one since it's the same line. If you are doing it by reusing the stock hard line, you have to cut the T out and connect the fuel line over near the first connection for the hardline. This is made pretty clear in Ryephile's video.

jflexe99
12-03-2013, 01:35 PM
Awesome write up music. I didn't see that before...ha.

Quick q, for the hose line. I only got 2 foot online, if I go your route(which I like, saving some stock lines) would this hose work just as well? I would believe it would...

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/jobsmartreg%3B-rubber-air-hose-200-psi-3-8-in-x-50-ft-black

Ryephile
12-03-2013, 06:06 PM
As long as the line you're using won't collapse under vacuum and can handle underhood temperatures [-40 to 125C], you should be fine.

musicsurf
12-03-2013, 06:09 PM
Awesome write up music. I didn't see that before...ha.

Quick q, for the hose line. I only got 2 foot online, if I go your route(which I like, saving some stock lines) would this hose work just as well? I would believe it would...

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/jobsmartreg%3B-rubber-air-hose-200-psi-3-8-in-x-50-ft-black

I would make sure the hose can stand up to fuel as well. Even though it's not liquid gas, it's still fuel vapors.

jflexe99
12-03-2013, 07:25 PM
I plan to try to do my FMIC and evap mod tomorrow. Found this instead, MUCH better

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_fuel-line-hose-h-b-d-industries_5192420-p?searchTerm=fuel+line+hose#fragment-1

lenswerks
12-03-2013, 07:37 PM
musicsurf came by my garage last Friday and with me looking on installed the Ryephile EVAC mod.
We went for a short ride, then later I went back out to the belt way for a few runs.

I was very surprised at the result. Very smooth. Consistently peaked 24 and held 23-22 on three runs, pulls very hard all while maintaining the integrity of the system.

Speedo looks like the sweep of stopwatch needle.

Thanks guys!

tknospdr
12-03-2013, 08:48 PM
Most of my parts have arrived, I'm just waiting for the replacement purge hose. Then I'll be looking over musicsurf's shoulder while he "helps" me with my install too. :)

jflexe99
12-04-2013, 10:32 PM
Done...Went well, a few times were a little annoying..like finding out they loctite the damn bolts holding on the battery tray!

The only difference was two things. I used the tube directly to intake instead of the original clip or green one. And I forgot a PVC connector so I used a piece of the original line(straight piece) and that worked perfectly to connect the tubes below the canister(or whatever it is with the red barbed connector)

Very happy, and got to install my ATM fmic after :) :) :)

tknospdr
12-08-2013, 09:15 PM
I went ahead and did this today. Not being much of a wrencher it took me a long time and I did one or 2 things a little different.
I did however get a good picture of the back of the engine where that unseen hose clamp is. Not sure that it really helps much but here it is anyway.

8818

Phiat500
03-03-2014, 08:10 PM
I've finally decided on doing this mod. I think I figured it all out, I read everything and everywhere about the boost leak. Thanks Ryan for the mod....!
I don't want to slice into any stock tubes. Can anyone let me know where I can buy some
Check valves?

10410

Do you have to attach clamps to the attachments. As per photo(x)?
If not, why?

trevc
03-04-2014, 10:44 AM
If you follow exactly musicsurfs instructions on how to implement this mod and buy the parts he says (including this fiat part for $8 04627466AB ) you will be able to easily reverse everything you did if you need to as you do not slice any stock lines. http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/showthread.php?10140-How-To-Evaporative-Re-Route-and-Boost-Leak-Fix&p=640279&viewfull=1#post640279
The 04627466AB comes with the check valves you need.
Follow this method and you won't get CEL's.
Cable clamps aren't needed as most are barb fittings and these are low pressure lines.


I've finally decided on doing this mod. I think I figured it all out, I read everything and everywhere about the boost leak. Thanks Ryan for the mod....!
I don't want to slice into any stock tubes. Can anyone let me know where I can buy some
Check valves?

10410

Do you have to attach clamps to the attachments. As per photo(x)?
If not, why?

tknospdr
03-04-2014, 10:52 AM
Here's something to consider as well. If you don't mind splitting the $8 piece you can save a LOT of hassle by not undoing the clamp in the back that's so hard to see.
Laziness is the mother of invention, so my addition to this mod is to leave that clamp where it is, split the end of the hose coming off of it and just add your parts back in on the original one.
If you need to go back to stock you just have to re-buy the $8 hose from mopar.

Phiat500
03-04-2014, 11:50 AM
Thanks guys

Phiat500
03-04-2014, 11:51 AM
Anybody getting CELs? It seems the answer is no!

trevc
03-04-2014, 12:15 PM
No. Some are getting them with other mods designed to address the same boost leak issue but not this design. Ryan did his homework!

Anybody getting CELs? It seems the answer is no!

nilfinite
03-04-2014, 12:51 PM
Looking forward to doing this mod! Smoother boost is always awesome. Any idea of how it'll affect mpg? My guess is more boost = less mpg?

musicsurf
03-04-2014, 01:19 PM
Looking forward to doing this mod! Smoother boost is always awesome. Any idea of how it'll affect mpg? My guess is more boost = less mpg?

When I first did this following Ryephile's instructions, I saw a 2mpg increase. No wasted boost means the engine can run more efficiently.

Guest
03-04-2014, 01:47 PM
I want to do this mod but for some reason it makes me nervous to do it. Not done something like this before.

nilfinite
03-04-2014, 06:53 PM
When I first did this following Ryephile's instructions, I saw a 2mpg increase. No wasted boost means the engine can run more efficiently.

That's crazy and awesome.

Phiat500
03-04-2014, 07:02 PM
Looking forward to doing this mod! Smoother boost is always awesome. Any idea of how it'll affect mpg? My guess is more boost = less mpg?

If the boost leak is more efficient then you'll be getting better fuel economy.

Phiat500
03-04-2014, 07:05 PM
Here's something to consider as well. If you don't mind splitting the $8 piece you can save a LOT of hassle by not undoing the clamp in the back that's so hard to see.
Laziness is the mother of invention, so my addition to this mod is to leave that clamp where it is, split the end of the hose coming off of it and just add your parts back in on the original one.
If you need to go back to stock you just have to re-buy the $8 hose from mopar.

Smart! Didn't think of that!

Tweak
03-04-2014, 08:01 PM
I want to do this mod but for some reason it makes me nervous to do it. Not done something like this before.

You're not alone.

Ryephile
03-04-2014, 10:30 PM
For the people attending Fiat's on the Dragon, I'll be happy to do a little show-n-tell under the hood to give a more in-depth in-person explanation. In practice it's a fairly simple modification, but I agree it seems daunting if you've never tackled something like it before. It's the details that make the difference.

Phiat500
03-04-2014, 11:07 PM
Can i use a copper/brass wye with this setup? Mcmaster-Carr doesn't ship to Canada :(

Ryephile
03-05-2014, 12:09 AM
Can i use a copper/brass wye with this setup? Mcmaster-Carr doesn't ship to Canada :(

As long as it's the right size and shape so it flows enough vapor smoothly, brass should be fine.

tknospdr
03-05-2014, 11:30 AM
It was the very first thing I've ever done under the hood of a car besides check/change oil.
If I can do it, anyone can!

BecauseRacecar
03-05-2014, 03:03 PM
For the people attending Fiat's on the Dragon, I'll be happy to do a little show-n-tell under the hood to give a more in-depth in-person explanation.

1] Sweet, I get to meet the legend himself.

2] Totally taking you up on this offer!!

Phiat500
03-06-2014, 01:01 AM
1] Sweet, I get to meet the legend himself.

2] Totally taking you up on this offer!!

The legend, understatement!

To bad, I'm miles away, would have loved to meet you guys.

Maybe you guys are always welcomed down to Canada. Grand Prix F1 weekend with the fiat club , amazing....

Invite pending...

jwgrigio
03-09-2014, 05:11 AM
I will donate the extra oem hoses originally suggested by musicsurf. Fiat sent me a extra and this will allow you to return to stock.

ksig421
03-09-2014, 08:34 AM
I will donate the extra oem hoses originally suggested by musicsurf. Fiat sent me a extra and this will allow you to return to stock.

Pm sent!

Phiat500
03-10-2014, 05:49 PM
Can anyone answer this? Ryephile

10588

The (yellow a) & (red b) arrows are showing the direction of the release of air, Right?? The check value stops the air from coming back from the intake, right?? Can someone explain the airflow? Does the (yellow arrow a) ever get into the (red arrow b) and flow into the engine? Arghhhhh!!! Can someone explain?

Phiat500
03-10-2014, 05:58 PM
All this at my local fiat studio for $20 !

10589

musicsurf
03-10-2014, 07:01 PM
Can anyone answer this? Ryephile

10588

The (yellow a) & (red b) arrows are showing the direction of the release of air, Right?? The check value stops the air from coming back from the intake, right?? Can someone explain the airflow? Does the (yellow arrow a) ever get into the (red arrow b) and flow into the engine? Arghhhhh!!! Can someone explain?

I don't know if it's just me, but it looks like your arrows are pointing towards brake lines. Basically air flows into the purge valve (the one that you attach the short run of hose and wye to) from the drivers side. From the wye the flow of air usually purges into the intake, but under certain circumstances can purge back into the intake manifold. These are the two places that are plumbed into after the purge valve. The check valve should allow airflow towards the intake and stop airflow from it.

Guest
03-10-2014, 07:20 PM
Ryan should sort a webcast :)

Everyone interested could follow a live show n tell with constant questions from us dummies on the floor!

Vaejovis carolinanus aka lowconabarth
03-10-2014, 08:37 PM
For the people attending Fiat's on the Dragon, I'll be happy to do a little show-n-tell under the hood to give a more in-depth in-person explanation. In practice it's a fairly simple modification, but I agree it seems daunting if you've never tackled something like it before. It's the details that make the difference.

I was going to take you up on this opportunity but it turns out that my wife is going to have cancer surgery on the 2nd of April so I will miss the Dragon trip this time. Of course her health is the most important thing. If someone can post a video of this tutorial I would greatly appreciate.

mneuman916
03-10-2014, 09:25 PM
I was going to take you up on this opportunity but it turns out that my wife is going to have cancer surgery on the 2nd of April so I will miss the Dragon trip this time. Of course her health is the most important thing. If someone can post a video of this tutorial I would greatly appreciate.

So sorry to hear and best wishes to you and your wife of course.

Trust me when I say that if you order the OEM hose that Musicsurf recommends, everything falls into place and it ALL becomes clear. I really cannot put this in any more clear words than this. Once you see the set up the entire thing just makes sense. I'd have done this ages ago had I known it was this simple. I have mine already fabricated ready to be installed, just waiting for warmer weather!

Vaejovis carolinanus aka lowconabarth
03-10-2014, 09:29 PM
I will order a replacement set and give it a shot. I just want to be able to return to stock if needed.

mneuman916
03-10-2014, 09:35 PM
I will order a replacement set and give it a shot. I just want to be able to return to stock if needed.

I plan on documenting my install soon. Just do it, you wont regret it. Once I saw the stock part I was shocked at how stupid simple it all actually is.

Phiat500
03-10-2014, 10:40 PM
Guys is this okay?? Besides the wrong sizes... Will cut them tomorrow! Are the check valves okay? Did you see how I capped the tee? Is everything fine to install??

Thanks in advance!

10593

Phiat500
03-10-2014, 10:43 PM
I plan on documenting my install soon. Just do it, you wont regret it. Once I saw the stock part I was shocked at how stupid simple it all actually is.

20$ incredible!! I received it today. When I looked at it I said, "I can't be this easy, I'm missing something??"
Check out my picture..... I used a tie wrap and fuel line fastener to cap.

Where do I cap the boost leak.... I referring to your red cap!

Phiat500
03-10-2014, 10:44 PM
I was going to take you up on this opportunity but it turns out that my wife is going to have cancer surgery on the 2nd of April so I will miss the Dragon trip this time. Of course her health is the most important thing. If someone can post a video of this tutorial I would greatly appreciate.

Best wishes

musicsurf
03-10-2014, 10:59 PM
20$ incredible!! I received it today. When I looked at it I said, "I can't be this easy, I'm missing something??"
Check out my picture..... I used a tie wrap and fuel line fastener to cap.

Where do I cap the boost leak.... I referring to your red cap!

The red cap goes underneath the battery tray on the charge pipe. The airflow is supposed to flow into the intake normally. The way you have this set up with the Tee instead of Wye and the way the Tee is faced, you may have an issue (and possible CEL). The air is going to take the path of least resistance which in this case will take it into the intake manifold.

Phiat500
03-10-2014, 11:21 PM
The red cap goes underneath the battery tray on the charge pipe. The airflow is supposed to flow into the intake normally. The way you have this set up with the Tee instead of Wye and the way the Tee is faced, you may have an issue (and possible CEL). The air is going to take the path of least resistance which in this case will take it into the intake manifold.

Thanks for clarifying the red cap!! :)

Photo 1
10594

Photo 2
10595

Photo 1
Shows an even distribution from the canister(red nipple).

Photo 2
Shows a more direct airflow from the red nipples canister to the exit(intake).

Which is the better option, while I wait the wye to arrive?

musicsurf
03-10-2014, 11:30 PM
Option 1 is best, but I would just wait for the wye so you aren't doing it twice.

Phiat500
03-10-2014, 11:41 PM
Thanks!

Phiat500
03-12-2014, 09:30 PM
Thanks once again! Couldn't believe how easy this was!!! It's simply just buy the part mentioned above for $20 at any mopar dealership or fiat studio plus a wye and a rubber 5/16 cap. No cels and boost is great!!
Thanks all...

Does this mod at HP???

trevc
03-12-2014, 09:32 PM
Great to hear you got it installed!

Thanks once again! Couldn't believe how easy this was!!! It's simply just buy the part mentioned above for $20 at any mopar dealership or fiat studio plus a wye and a rubber 5/16 cap. No cels and boost is great!!
Thanks all...

Does this mod at HP???

Phiat500
03-12-2014, 09:39 PM
10615

Can anyone answer this?
The marked (a) is from the boost leak purge. But...
The marked (b) does what ???...??? Does it purge or take in air?? What does it purge?

Ryephile
03-12-2014, 10:06 PM
Can anyone answer this?
The marked (a) is from the boost leak purge. But...
The marked (b) does what ???...??? Does it purge or take in air??

Item B is for the boost controller. IIRC it is an air purge once the wastegate actuator is done with it.

Phiat500
03-12-2014, 10:25 PM
Item B is for the boost controller. IIRC it is an air purge once the wastegate actuator is done with it.

Is it okay to put a mini K&N air filter on it (b)? My CAI has only one fitting for the boost leak (a) purge.

Phiat500
03-12-2014, 10:26 PM
Item B is for the boost controller. IIRC it is an air purge once the wastegate actuator is done with it.

Anyone else??

trevc
03-13-2014, 09:34 AM
It is just purging air back into the intake so that should not be an issue. A is the important one.
Ideally you should get a CAI with the correct connections though.

Anyone else??

Phiat500
03-13-2014, 04:24 PM
Day two! My psi doesn't go higher then 12-16??? Can it be the red cap that flew out :$ go to look under the hood tonight..

trevc
03-13-2014, 04:49 PM
Probably!
Follow musicsurf's method to attach it - I regularly boost 25PSI and it hasn't blown off or torn yet.

Day two! My psi doesn't go higher then 12-16??? Can it be the red cap that flew out :$ go to look under the hood tonight..

mneuman916
03-13-2014, 06:53 PM
With all the talk about exploding caps I decided on a more foolproof (and cheap) solution. I'm going to cap mine with a small length of 3/8" hose, a pair of #4 clamps and a short 7/16" bolt. I actually had to use a wrench to thread the bolt into the hose; nice tight fit! I probably don't even need the clamp but it's extra security. I'll trim this down slightly when I actually instal it so that it's as short as possible. It's not as pretty as a cap, but who's ever going to see it under the battery anyway? ;)

http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj616/mneuman916/0313141830.jpg

Phiat500
03-13-2014, 09:26 PM
With all the talk about exploding caps I decided on a more foolproof (and cheap) solution. I'm going to cap mine with a small length of 3/8" hose, a pair of #4 clamps and a short 7/16" bolt. I actually had to use a wrench to thread the bolt into the hose; nice tight fit! I probably don't even need the clamp but it's extra security. I'll trim this down slightly when I actually instal it so that it's as short as possible. It's not as pretty as a cap, but who's ever going to see it under the battery anyway? ;)

http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj616/mneuman916/0313141830.jpg


Lmfao !! I did the exact same thing on my classic fiat 500!! This is what an auto parts dealer in Italy told me to do in order to cap off the carb...fuel purge.

Phiat500
03-14-2014, 11:08 PM
At what Rpm do we get 21psi with this boost fix? I can't seem to get more than 16psi...

Guest
03-15-2014, 05:01 AM
At what Rpm do we get 21psi with this boost fix? I can't seem to get more than 16psi...

I guess you have the factory stock boost gauge?

Phiat500
03-15-2014, 09:17 AM
Yes :(

I will try with my obd reader...

Anyone know what can cause this?

Guest
03-15-2014, 10:07 AM
Yes :(

I will try with my obd reader...

Anyone know what can cause this?

The stock boost gauge is a gimmick and doesnt display the boost given, only that requested by the ECU. The OBD cant give you that info either, the only way to plot accurate boost is by using one of the after market replacement gauges youll find being sold on these forums. Youre probably doing better than you suspect!

Phiat500
03-20-2014, 12:18 AM
How do you reset the ecu after the boost leak fix?

dart1.4t
03-20-2014, 08:52 AM
The stock boost gauge is a gimmick and doesnt display the boost given, only that requested by the ECU. The OBD cant give you that info either, the only way to plot accurate boost is by using one of the after market replacement gauges youll find being sold on these forums. Youre probably doing better than you suspect!

you should be able to pull MAP and boost sensor voltage over obd. it may not have a PID to tell you real boost the raw sensor data should get you there.

dart1.4t
03-20-2014, 08:53 AM
At what Rpm do we get 21psi with this boost fix? I can't seem to get more than 16psi...

you need a tune or piggyback to get 21 psi. this doesn't increase boost, it is just thought to improve response.

Phiat500
03-22-2014, 11:37 PM
Questions;

1- does the boost leak fix work with my mm ecu piggyback?

2- how do I calculate boost psi pressure with obdii readings? I heard map minus ??

ophidia31
03-23-2014, 01:32 AM
I think its map minus 14.7 since atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi or something. Been a while since I screwed with a boosted car. But i think map is read in kPa, so 100 kPa is 14.7psi (atmosphere) or 1 bar.

Phiat500
03-23-2014, 10:11 PM
I think its map minus 14.7 since atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi or something. Been a while since I screwed with a boosted car. But i think map is read in kPa, so 100 kPa is 14.7psi (atmosphere) or 1 bar.

Isn't this what the gauge reads? Is there another way of calculating boost with obd??

Guest
03-23-2014, 10:18 PM
The stock gauge reads ECU REQUESTED BOOST. It does NOT show actual boost and is completely useless once a piggyback ECM is installed. If you want accurate actual boost you have to purchase an aftermarket boost gauge kit.

Ryephile
03-23-2014, 11:05 PM
The stock gauge reads ECU REQUESTED BOOST. It does NOT show actual boost and is completely useless once a piggyback ECM is installed. If you want accurate actual boost you have to purchase an aftermarket boost gauge kit.

I'm not entirely convinced the factory boost gauge is Commanded Boost, it appears to be the TIP sensor reading, which is upstream of the throttle body. It would explain why the "boost" rises upon high RPM engine braking. It would also explain why the "boost" doesn't change during certain tip-in's, say going from 30% to 50% pedal angle.

As for OBDII MAP readings, it appears to be a rational sensor output in absolute pressure. Boost, if you feel compelled to actually know, would be the absolute pressure minus the particular atmospheric pressure at the time of the measurement. Get your weather app and calculator handy! IMO it's easier to just read the sensor data as-is and not try to constantly convert it to something else. Ditto with Lambda measurements.



How do you reset the ecu after the boost leak fix?

There's no reason to do that. Any change in fuel trim will happen with the closed loop oxygen sensor. Just drive the car and enjoy.


At what Rpm do we get 21psi with this boost fix? I can't seem to get more than 16psi...

It's not that simple. Boost is commanded based on a torque output calculation. Atmospheric pressure, temperature, intake pressure and temperature, coolant temp, and knock count are all taken into account to determine how much boost to run to achieve a specific torque amount depending on your pedal angle. Put simpler, in cold weather at sea level the car doesn't need much boost to make programmed torque, but a hot summer day at Pikes Peak requires a lot of boost to make the same torque. Remember that boost is a measure of restriction, so if you have hardware that's more efficient at flowing air than the stock parts, the engine will need less boost to make the same torque. Since the re-route eliminates the power-robbing boost leak, the car will need less boost to make the same torque.

Phiat500
03-24-2014, 02:15 AM
I'm not entirely convinced the factory boost gauge is Commanded Boost, it appears to be the TIP sensor reading, which is upstream of the throttle body. It would explain why the "boost" rises upon high RPM engine braking. It would also explain why the "boost" doesn't change during certain tip-in's, say going from 30% to 50% pedal angle.

As for OBDII MAP readings, it appears to be a rational sensor output in absolute pressure. Boost, if you feel compelled to actually know, would be the absolute pressure minus the particular atmospheric pressure at the time of the measurement. Get your weather app and calculator handy! IMO it's easier to just read the sensor data as-is and not try to constantly convert it to something else. Ditto with Lambda measurements.




There's no reason to do that. Any change in fuel trim will happen with the closed loop oxygen sensor. Just drive the car and enjoy.



It's not that simple. Boost is commanded based on a torque output calculation. Atmospheric pressure, temperature, intake pressure and temperature, coolant temp, and knock count are all taken into account to determine how much boost to run to achieve a specific torque amount depending on your pedal angle. Put simpler, in cold weather at sea level the car doesn't need much boost to make programmed torque, but a hot summer day at Pikes Peak requires a lot of boost to make the same torque. Remember that boost is a measure of restriction, so if you have hardware that's more efficient at flowing air than the stock parts, the engine will need less boost to make the same torque. Since the re-route eliminates the power-robbing boost leak, the car will need less boost to make the same torque.

Amazing answers! Thanks

Phiat500
03-24-2014, 02:21 AM
I tried this script with my obd readings! Of course, I add in the script a conversion from kpa to psi and subtract 14.7 psi.
My gauge is now giving me the numbers I wanna see but are they true or close to it?



10810

ophidia31
03-24-2014, 10:53 AM
Like ryphile said with his weather app comment, the 14.7 isnt going to be a truly constant number. Tuners just use it as a mean average for pressure at sealevel. That number is always changing depending on weather condition and elevation. The number you are seeing would be kinda close to what the actual is, but without a legitimate gauge to tell you, its just still a guess.

Bomiz
06-03-2014, 06:52 PM
Would this work for the Y piece?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=81865&catid=714

Ryephile
06-03-2014, 07:02 PM
Dimensionally, yes. Material selection, no, it will likely melt. You want all-things underhood to have a -40 to +257F [125C] rating.

kaytbugsdad
06-03-2014, 11:28 PM
Not that I have to worry about it for another 5 years, but do you think us guys here in California might be able to get away with a smog check using this setup, assuming no CEL??????

ereuter
07-03-2014, 09:08 AM
I tackled this last night, using musicsurf's bill of materials and instructions on the second page of the thread. Took about an hour.

Question for those with aftermarket intakes: I have a RRM intake with the K&N cone filter. As boost is building, I hear air movement. I assume that this is just the air going into the intake through the filter, and not a boost leak. It definitely builds boost better than it did 24 hours ago, but I want to be sure I'm not missing anything. When I let off the pedal, the recirc valve is also quite audible, as I would expect.

Sound normal?

trevc
07-03-2014, 11:40 AM
Normal. With the open filter you can hear the turbo sucking in the air.


I tackled this last night, using musicsurf's bill of materials and instructions on the second page of the thread. Took about an hour.

Question for those with aftermarket intakes: I have a RRM intake with the K&N cone filter. As boost is building, I hear air movement. I assume that this is just the air going into the intake through the filter, and not a boost leak. It definitely builds boost better than it did 24 hours ago, but I want to be sure I'm not missing anything. When I let off the pedal, the recirc valve is also quite audible, as I would expect.

Sound normal?

ophidia31
07-03-2014, 11:41 AM
I have the rrm intake as well and how did you not hear the air sucking before? Or did you just put it on with the mod?

But just did this mod today at work quick. Did a quick check behind the building and its a little more responsive it seems. Didnt really hammer on it as I want to drive it under my normal routine to relearn. But I kind of combo'd musicsurfs and ryphs instructions. I cut the line at the top of the engine and capped it there like ryph did but did the rest like musicsurf using the 90* at the intake connection instead of one scavaging a straight piece from the removed tubing. Ill pay the extra money for that line if I ever need to replace that line. After taking out the battery, I dont want to do that crap again if that cap pops or comes off. lol Lastly I said f-that to getting under the back of the engine to take off that hose to the throttle body. Just cut the line off at the check valve and its much easier. Just have to do some work at the car instead of on the bench if you do it that way. In conclusion, if you do the half and half mod like I did and the trick for that large check valve line, this is easily a 20min job.

ereuter
07-03-2014, 11:45 AM
I have the rrm intake as well and how did you not hear the air sucking before? Or did you just put it on with the mod?


No, I did the intake a few weeks ago. I did hear it before, but was never sure if it was the boost leak I was hearing. I did some more driving today, and the whooshing sound seems to only be at part throttle. At WOT, it goes away. Is this normal? I used to be really into turbos 15 years ago, but I'm a little rusty.

Steve-O
07-11-2014, 11:55 AM
how does this effect those with cold air intakes? does the sound change? etc? just curious, thinking about doing this mod since i can get the parts for nothing


(Injen cold air intake)
At <6psi you would hear the turbo flutter
At >6psi you would hear ir whirl up then when you let go of the throttle pedal is the whoosh exhale(or blow off)

just curious as to how/if this changes those noises.

silvete
07-12-2014, 09:33 PM
Great Posts thanks all for sharing, would be perfect if anyone make a video from start to finish in the porcess , talking all stock and installng it, i wonder if this video helphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RLbnmi7T5Q or is similar, in not good at engine motor or mechanic, bt a clear video slow one would be perfect,

Please dont get me wrong is just that i dont get it on pictures and the fisrt video o post i not the complete porcess, but like i said great job , im just noob on this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RLbnmi7T5Q,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RLbnmi7T5Q
this video


Im undestand clearly this video :) but is not same as showed on this posts.

Thanks all

ereuter
07-13-2014, 10:47 AM
Great Posts thanks all for sharing, would be perfect if anyone make a video from start to finish in the porcess , talking all stock and installng it.

I used Musicsurf's instructions with photos on the second page of the thread. I read the whole thing, and it didn't really make any sense until I got under the hood. Just have your computer next to the car, and follow along. The biggest pain in the ass is removing the battery and prying the tray far enough out to get to the connection on the boost pipe.

dart1.4t
07-13-2014, 12:20 PM
Great Posts thanks all for sharing, would be perfect if anyone make a video from start to finish in the porcess , talking all stock and installng it, i wonder if this video helphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RLbnmi7T5Q or is similar, in not good at engine motor or mechanic, bt a clear video slow one would be perfect,

Please dont get me wrong is just that i dont get it on pictures and the fisrt video o post i not the complete porcess, but like i said great job , im just noob on this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RLbnmi7T5Q,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RLbnmi7T5Q
this video


Im undestand clearly this video :) but is not same as showed on this posts.

Thanks all

that appears to be the tork kit. it is basically the same. the difference is ryephile suggests to use a Y rather than a T, and tork leaves a "T" in place and caps it. it's a choice. using a Y is optimal but i suggest if you use a T to change the orientation so that the branch goes to the manifold near the throttle body and the straight path goes to the intake. it seems that if the code trips and is then cleared the computer can learn the new parameters and it may not trip again as long as there is some flow. but i feel like you should give it as much flow as possible.

also there is no need to "CUT" the lines. a heat gun will allow you to remove the plastic lines completely undamaged. this may also be possible with a air dryer but i haven't tried that.

silvete
07-16-2014, 01:43 AM
Thanks for the help, ok this http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/showthread.php?10140-How-To-Evaporative-Re-Route-and-Boost-Leak-Fix&p=640279&viewfull=1#post640279 seems to be just fine, in the list of materials he adds this http://www.fiatpartswebstore.com/pro...4627466AB.html, why, for go back if anything goes wrong? i have watche over and over or im missing something? is not needed unless you want to get back right? planning to do it tomorrow. but thats my only concern.


Thanks all

moosestang
07-16-2014, 08:57 AM
Reading this thread made my head hurt! Who's in the Gainesville area that has done this? Turbos are complicated.

musicsurf
07-16-2014, 10:13 AM
Thanks for the help, ok this http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/showthread.php?10140-How-To-Evaporative-Re-Route-and-Boost-Leak-Fix&p=640279&viewfull=1#post640279 seems to be just fine, in the list of materials he adds this http://www.fiatpartswebstore.com/pro...4627466AB.html, why, for go back if anything goes wrong? i have watche over and over or im missing something? is not needed unless you want to get back right? planning to do it tomorrow. but thats my only concern.


Thanks all

I had to bring my car in for service after I did this (fairly soon after I bought the car). Personally, I didn't want to give the studio any reason to give me a hassle. It doesn't matter at the point I'm at now, but back then there were only a couple things done to it.


Reading this thread made my head hurt! Who's in the Gainesville area that has done this? Turbos are complicated.

Gainesville, FL? I'm in Melbourne, but my parents are up in Starke. I don't know the next time I'll be there, but I would lend you a hand.

moosestang
07-16-2014, 04:35 PM
Gainesville, FL? I'm in Melbourne, but my parents are up in Starke. I don't know the next time I'll be there, but I would lend you a hand.

Starke is a fine town. I'm actually in Alachua, so closer to Starke. I'll probably give it a go here shortly.

silvete
07-16-2014, 09:21 PM
Im sorry i will post this , maybe to ovbious for some, but the outer hose is 3/8 is bib , in picture are 3 models im not sure, i bought 3 sizes to make sure lol, 3/8 i saw it to big so wasnt sure and havent seen the car really, doing this on saturday so no idea in real life the hoses on the car. thanks for the help


13045

moosestang
07-21-2014, 01:35 PM
Here's something to consider as well. If you don't mind splitting the $8 piece you can save a LOT of hassle by not undoing the clamp in the back that's so hard to see.
Laziness is the mother of invention, so my addition to this mod is to leave that clamp where it is, split the end of the hose coming off of it and just add your parts back in on the original one.
If you need to go back to stock you just have to re-buy the $8 hose from mopar.

This is what I intend to do. the large check valve is off of that hose right? I ordered the stock piece in case I ever need to change it back.

I'm hoping this will make acceleration a little smoother? Especially in 2nd gear.

ophidia31
07-21-2014, 02:33 PM
This is what I intend to do. the large check valve is off of that hose right? I ordered the stock piece in case I ever need to change it back.

I'm hoping this will make acceleration a little smoother? Especially in 2nd gear.

Same thing I did. Wasnt trying to reach underneath to get the the one at the TB. Work smart not hard. lol Can either undo the pressure clamp or just slice the plastic tubing off the other side. I just split the tubing and left the check valve attached to the car.

But since Ive done the fix, Ive noticed with mine:
A small flatulence noise under boost was gone. So its alot quieter, less "sounds like something is wrong with the car"
Consitent boost pressure.
Faster boost being built.
And, wanted to wait to say this before I considered it a fluke, but consitent 1-2mpg gain as well. No change in driving style or normal daily routes. Since I dont do alot of straight highway trips, I wonder if Ill see a highway increase. Will be able to see this in Sept since I have a trip for work.

moosestang
07-25-2014, 04:29 PM
finished! I sure hope it was worth it. **** that ******* battery tray! Who attaches everything to the battery tray? With the stock airbox, I had to go around and under the intake tube and snake it around the oil filler cap. not a big fan of that stock airbox design, but it looks nice on top of the motor.

i was too tire and sweaty to take it for a test drive, but it started right up.

I put a rubber nipple on the charge pipe and then a pieces of reinforced nylon tubing over that, along with a bolt in the end of the tubing, so even if the nipple pops, it won't leak. I don't want to have to take that battery box back out.

shadowshaggy
07-28-2014, 04:57 PM
So I finally did this, I do have well 8 spare wye's if anyone wants one lol because I ordered a 10 pack

By the way, most of this is 5/16" not 3/8" but either will work; just my two cents. It all depends on what wye and check valve you opt to use. I used 5/16" caps and should have used 3/8", but could have used 5/16" line, wye, and check valve. Again, no real difference other than availability.

Ryephile, thank you sir for this again. The video is missing a few steps, but the diagram helps tremendously. You are a gentleman and a scholar, or gentleman and a lady - you decide gr_grin

Anyone need a wye hit me up.

moosestang
07-30-2014, 12:17 PM
I got a check engine light today!

shadowshaggy
07-30-2014, 12:49 PM
Which code? P1CEA is the one related to boost leak, so check the code please.

moosestang
07-30-2014, 01:11 PM
Which code? P1CEA is the one related to boost leak, so check the code please.

Well my sct tuner won't read codes on the fiat, so i ordered a obd scanner from amazon. i'll know on Friday. From what I read P1CEA isn't necessarily from the boost leak fix. People have gotten it with the stock configuration.

I had just driven 50 miles to the dentist, no a/c on, probably the longest continuous stretch since picking up the car. I came out, turned on the a/c and was driving away and I got the ding sound and check engine light.

My plug is still on the charge pipe. Car seemed to run fine, but I kept thinking it was down on power, but probably in my head.

It's a long trip to the dealer for me, so unless it's something expensive, i'll be fixing it myself.

shadowshaggy
07-30-2014, 02:16 PM
*generally speaking P1CEA is boost leak fix related

Yeah the $15 bluetooth adapter from amazon is the best thing ever created gr_grin

Also, P1CEA issues (http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/showthread.php?11708-Fiat-500-Abarth-TSB-18-028-13-MIL-P1CEA-Boost-Side-Evap-Purge)

moosestang
07-30-2014, 02:55 PM
*generally speaking P1CEA is boost leak fix related

Yeah the $15 bluetooth adapter from amazon is the best thing ever created gr_grin

Also, P1CEA issues (http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/showthread.php?11708-Fiat-500-Abarth-TSB-18-028-13-MIL-P1CEA-Boost-Side-Evap-Purge)

I don't have a smart phone, so no way to use the app, so i ordered an actual scan tool instead. http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS310-OBDII-Reader/dp/B005KOZ25Y/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1406746033&sr=1-4&keywords=obd2+scanner

With only 800 miles on the car, it could be anything really, but odds are it's related to the boost fix. I'll try rerouting the hose going to the intake pipe and shorten it if possible. If it's any of the common codes, I'm going to clear it and wait for it to come back before taking it to the dealer. Seems people have gotten the under boost code with zero mods done.

shadowshaggy
07-30-2014, 03:19 PM
Indeed they have, one or two got it with under 100 miles on the car for no apparent reason other than faulty programming. Swing by a parts store and have them scan it for piece of mind, AutoZone/Advanced/O'Reilly all do it free of charge. All you need is a code number, forget the rest until later.

musicsurf
07-30-2014, 03:22 PM
There was a TSB for the P1CEA and P0456 codes, so they don't necessarily have anything to do with the reroute. Moosetang, that TSB probably doesn't pertain to you as with that low of a mileage I doubt your car was built on or before Feb 2013.

moosestang
07-30-2014, 03:47 PM
There was a TSB for the P1CEA and P0456 codes, so they don't necessarily have anything to do with the reroute. Moosetang, that TSB probably doesn't pertain to you as with that low of a mileage I doubt your car was built on or before Feb 2013.

I wouldn't think so, it had just arrived at fields fiat in June. I'll just drive the mustang to work tomorrow, had planned on driving it anyway.

Ryephile
07-30-2014, 10:29 PM
There was a TSB for the P1CEA and P0456 codes, so they don't necessarily have anything to do with the reroute. Moosetang, that TSB probably doesn't pertain to you as with that low of a mileage I doubt your car was built on or before Feb 2013.

Ever since getting my late '12 build MY13 reflashed for the P1CEA TSB, I have never gotten another CEL with my re-route installed. It's been thousands of miles now. Before the reflash I might get one every few hundred miles in summer. Now it's no sweat.

musicsurf
07-30-2014, 10:46 PM
Ever since getting my late '12 build MY13 reflashed for the P1CEA TSB, I have never gotten another CEL with my re-route installed. It's been thousands of miles now. Before the reflash I might get one every few hundred miles in summer. Now it's no sweat.

Same here, and my car has been 10's of thousands.

shadowshaggy
07-30-2014, 10:55 PM
I did your reroute last weekend and no cel, few hundred miles between track, city, and hwy. As always, will update later; and it was 102 Saturday.

moosestang
07-31-2014, 04:50 PM
My CEL might just be for the gas cap. I didn't screw it on very good after getting gas. Will know about 2pm tomorrow.

Do you even need the line with the small check valve going to the intake tube? I know people have tried the stock lines with just a check valve at the charge pipe and gotten a CEL, but has anyone tried deleting the Y and hose going to the intake and just connect the prebent line directly to the purge canister? Turbos are too complicated. They should have put a small twin screw supercharger on this thing and we wouldn't have this problem!:thumbsup:

shadowshaggy
07-31-2014, 05:11 PM
I'm gonna end up with a few spare kits from the parts I bought, I used a new check valve and a wye (both 3/8") and no CEL in 500 someodd miles in-town/highway/track

moosestang
08-01-2014, 01:57 PM
Dammit! It said no code stored in module! WTH? it damn sure cleared the code though, because the light went out after i used the clear codes option. This scanner is supposed to show live data, but it says not supported, junk!

moosestang
08-04-2014, 01:33 PM
check engine light came back on. this stupid scanner still can't read it. I don't think it would be able to read any codes on this car. I'm going to reroute the hoses and clear it again. Stupid wifi scanner won't be here till Thursday.

moosestang
08-06-2014, 03:16 PM
I'm getting the P1CEA code. It is currently pending.

moosestang
08-11-2014, 07:42 PM
Stupid P1CEA popped up again while doing 70mph on the interstate. Why does the cluster have to beep every time? Just turn on the check engine light, i don't need a beep.

It seems my 2014 turbo is picky. Would my car have gotten the reflash for this code or was it only on Abarths?

pip
09-05-2014, 10:26 AM
ok, so I read most of this 17 page thread and understand what needs to happen.....

NM found the info on first page!

many thanks

pip
09-07-2014, 07:46 PM
Did this first thing this morning... The install went well and took about 20 min..

Car feels good so far, and no codes or issues!!

Thanks guys!

moosestang
09-09-2014, 06:43 PM
I'm still getting the code. I'm going to put it back to stock unless someone has anything else I can try. It almost always throws the code after just getting on the interstate, usually takes 2-4 days for it to set.

TorkMe
09-25-2014, 02:42 PM
We have a solution to this code. We have sourced a new vacuum check valve that has fixed several of our customers and non customers code setting with the boost leak fix. If you are interested in getting this valve, please contact James@Tork here on the forums, or email us at sales@damnfastdd.com and we will get one of these out to you.

Thanks,

John

gundam2000
09-25-2014, 02:54 PM
I did this a month ago and modified the instructions. I didn't remove the battery etc. as that is a pain in the ass. I cut the line that goes over the engine head where it is barely over the engine and capped it there. Of course when going back to stock I will need to buy more oem parts but the time savings was worth it. also if the cap blows out I don't have to remove the battery again.

moosestang
09-28-2014, 01:12 PM
I did this a month ago and modified the instructions. I didn't remove the battery etc. as that is a pain in the ass. I cut the line that goes over the engine head where it is barely over the engine and capped it there. Of course when going back to stock I will need to buy more oem parts but the time savings was worth it. also if the cap blows out I don't have to remove the battery again.

You could have just removed the splash shield underneath and gotten to the stock line that way, no need to remove the battery.

moosestang
09-30-2014, 05:13 PM
So I redid it one last time and have officially given up. It took only 3 drive cycles for the code to pop this time. I ordered a unichip and will put the evap hoses back to stock. I honestly never noticed anything different except it seemed to fire up quicker.

moosestang
10-20-2014, 06:22 PM
I don't want to jinx it, but I might have solved my code problem by moving the check valve from at the Y to right behind the fitting at the stock intake. It's been at least a week since I got the P1cea code, probably 8 interstate runs in that time. I just moved it from one end of the long hose to the other.

abarthspd
10-21-2014, 02:26 AM
I have received the P1CEA code 6 times now. I took my car into the fiat studio and they did the ECM update twice. The first time after the 3rd time taking the car in. The second time after the 4th time going in. On the 5th time of check engine light, they noticed a P04... code along with it and replaced a sensor. I just got back last wednesday after the 6th time of getting the P1CEA and the P04... codes (car recorded 5 events from the 5th time going in) and they finally replaced 3 other sensors. This better fix the problem.

moosestang
10-21-2014, 10:22 AM
I have received the P1CEA code 6 times now. I took my car into the fiat studio and they did the ECM update twice. The first time after the 3rd time taking the car in. The second time after the 4th time going in. On the 5th time of check engine light, they noticed a P04... code along with it and replaced a sensor. I just got back last wednesday after the 6th time of getting the P1CEA and the P04... codes (car recorded 5 events from the 5th time going in) and they finally replaced 3 other sensors. This better fix the problem.

I'm assuming your car is stock? I'm sure my P1CEA codes is related to the boost leak reroute.

Vitka
11-06-2014, 11:36 AM
I had a question and hoping someone can maybe help me. I did this reroute boost leak fix, and I also have the atm fmic but for some reason I'm reading 15lb boost at the max that it will go. Is there something wrong? Because stock I think they're about 18lb boost.
Thanks for any help.

I do have the defi aftermarket boost gauge and ported throttle body.

abarthspd
11-07-2014, 10:14 PM
Yeah my car is bone stock. I have an exhaust system for it, but I am nervous about installing the damn thing! Anyways, My light came on for a 7th time now and this time they replaced the PCM. We'll see if this works!

Ryephile
11-12-2014, 05:17 PM
Yeah my car is bone stock. I have an exhaust system for it, but I am nervous about installing the damn thing! Anyways, My light came on for a 7th time now and this time they replaced the PCM. We'll see if this works!

Best of luck. After getting my ECU reflashed for the TSB, I literally have not got any more P1CEA codes with my re-route. It'd be a good idea to double check your re-route install just to be sure it's all hooked up right.

ophidia31
11-12-2014, 06:06 PM
I don't want to jinx it, but I might have solved my code problem by moving the check valve from at the Y to right behind the fitting at the stock intake. It's been at least a week since I got the P1cea code, probably 8 interstate runs in that time. I just moved it from one end of the long hose to the other.

When youre reseting, are you doing a battery disconnect or are you clearing it with a reader? Battery pull will just trigger it again. Code reader will keep it cleared until the next battery disconnect. Or so thats what they say.

Vitka
11-17-2014, 02:11 PM
I had a question and wanted to see if anyone knows something about this. I did this mod and it seems great. It holds boost at 10psi and it doesn't drop until I let go of the pedal.

Ok so I asked the technician at fiat who also has a modified abarth about the boost leak fix and he said that I need to be careful with it and that he doesn't suggest it because the engine could blow and the spark plugs can go bad. He said too much pressure to the engine isn't good. And that the abarth is already pushing a lot of boost for such a small engine, he's a really smart tech I've known him for a while now. But that just made me worry a little about the mod.

What do you guys think about what he said.

Abarth Five O
11-17-2014, 02:18 PM
If he's worried about blowing the engine and fouling the plugs, then why did he do the mod? Sounds silly to me.

opiateESP
11-17-2014, 02:21 PM
I had a question and wanted to see if anyone knows something about this. I did this mod and it seems great. It holds boost at 10psi and it doesn't drop until I let go of the pedal.

Ok so I asked the technician at fiat who also has a modified abarth about the boost leak fix and he said that I need to be careful with it and that he doesn't suggest it because the engine could blow and the spark plugs can go bad. He said too much pressure to the engine isn't good. And that the abarth is already pushing a lot of boost for such a small engine, he's a really smart tech I've known him for a while now. But that just made me worry a little about the mod.

What do you guys think about what he said.

Simply put. No. It's not enough of a pressure differential to pop an engine. I'm peaking between 26 and 27 PSI. I highly doubt an extra PSI from a boost leak fix is going to do any damage.

Vitka
11-17-2014, 02:50 PM
If he's worried about blowing the engine and fouling the plugs, then why did he do the mod? Sounds silly to me.

He has other mods except the boost leak fix. That's what made me think about it because he didn't do it. Thanks

Vitka
11-17-2014, 02:54 PM
Simply put. No. It's not enough of a pressure differential to pop an engine. I'm peaking between 26 and 27 PSI. I highly doubt an extra PSI from a boost leak fix is going to do any damage.

Ok thanks. I'll just stop worrying about it. That's a lot, what psi is yours holding at? Mine goes up to 15-16psi and then drops to 10psi and seems like it holds it there until I let go. Is that sound about normal? Thanks for any help im still new to the turbo thing. :)

pip
11-17-2014, 03:10 PM
do you have a T or an Abarth?

opiateESP
11-17-2014, 03:13 PM
Ok thanks. I'll just stop worrying about it. That's a lot, what psi is yours holding at? Mine goes up to 15-16psi and then drops to 10psi and seems like it holds it there until I let go. Is that sound about normal? Thanks for any help im still new to the turbo thing. :)

On a single gear pull, it hits 26-27 then tapers down to 22-23 PSI. On a run through the gears, the car needs less boost to hit target torque so I see 23 psi tapering down to 19-20 at red line.

opiateESP
11-17-2014, 03:22 PM
do you have a T or an Abarth?

Sounds like he has a T. 15 PSI tapering to 10 is pretty typical... but that means he has a way to monitor boost.

Vitka
11-17-2014, 07:54 PM
Sorry for a late reply. It's an abarth. I have the atm fmic and ported throttle body and intake. The car was flooded before and i cleaned everything and rebuilt the whole car. I was kinda worried maybe my turbo is lacking somehow. I think I might have talked to one of you in a another thread.

I'm sorry if this is going off subject a little.

The car drives nice and pulls hard and it drives just like a abarth I had in 2012 but the low boost is making me think turbo isn't building enough or something is wrong.

Vitka
11-17-2014, 07:57 PM
I also installed a defi racer boost gauge but I'm pretty sure I installed it correctly. Hose isn't too long for the sensor. Maybe 8-10 inches?!

InFuZiOn
11-18-2014, 09:43 AM
Is this the exact same method to do the boost leak repair on the Abarth?

Vitka
11-19-2014, 08:55 AM
Is this the exact same method to do the boost leak repair on the Abarth?

Yes. It was done on the abarth.

abarthspd
11-29-2014, 01:01 PM
I'm assuming your car is stock? I'm sure my P1CEA codes is related to the boost leak reroute.

I have not done the boost leak reroute. I have not done anything to my car cause I'm nervous about voiding my warranty. Update on check engine light. Today marks check engine light #9. this time code P0441 which makes the 4th time for this code. The studio has replaced pretty much every sensor related to this code. I am not too thrilled. The trade in value on my car sucks. I have now 10,000 miles on it.

Davothegr8
12-17-2014, 04:03 PM
Why are some people blocking off at the charge pipe under the battery and some arent?

rjlong
12-19-2014, 09:07 AM
I did the evap reroute last week with no issues. Noticeably smoother acceleration! If you are in the Charlotte area, I have a few extra 3/8" Y's and would be happy to assist in the mod. Takes less than an hour.

Davothegr8
01-21-2015, 08:05 PM
Honestly not worth the headache. I pull the same P1CEA code every other day since doing this mod. Of course I followed the instructions. I regret this mod big time! Dont do it!

Abarth Five O
01-21-2015, 09:08 PM
Tried the Tork BLK, a slight variation of this reroute but essentially the same, for about a year and unfortunately I was one of the few that got the P1CEA cel so I went back to stock.

nilfinite
01-22-2015, 11:17 AM
Strange, I've never gotten a P1CEA due to this mod. 2013 Abarth.

The only time I've seen the code was when I forgot to connect the two plugs on the intake (near the turbo).

Maybe check for restrictions in the new tubing used for this mod.

Davothegr8
01-22-2015, 03:42 PM
Here's what Ive got. Im thinking of getting rid of the 180 bend by swapping around the Y. Maybe thatll help. Im running out of ideas.

Abarth Five O
01-23-2015, 12:20 PM
Used new check valve, Y fitting, all connections ok, and no kinks or restrictions in hoses. I believe, at least for my hypersensitive ecu, the reroute was not purging properly which throwed the cel.

GileraWarren
01-29-2015, 09:17 AM
Honestly not worth the headache. I pull the same P1CEA code every other day since doing this mod. Of course I followed the instructions. I regret this mod big time! Dont do it!

I'm beginning to agree with you. This P1CEA is a major PITA. My results are the same as yours

pip
01-29-2015, 09:40 AM
after many many miles I finally threw the code last night.....

I will have a look this weekend and see if I can change anything that fixes it

Does anyone have the OE part number for that hose set up from dealer...?

thanks

Abarth Five O
01-30-2015, 12:11 AM
04627466ab

pip
02-02-2015, 11:00 AM
ok cool that's what I had also found on those pics # 2 is the hose but its only $8 that cant be the whole hose set up...

Many thanks

Abarth Five O
02-02-2015, 01:27 PM
ok cool that's what I had also found on those pics # 2 is the hose but its only $8 that cant be the whole hose set up...

Many thanks

It is the whole hose set up. Even my LS parts guy was surprised that it was so cheap, he thought it was a mistake.biggrin

pip
02-02-2015, 06:08 PM
AMAZINGQ!!! thanks!

Davothegr8
02-05-2015, 05:12 PM
I know no one will believe me but since adding the Madness intake and ditching the Sila I havent thrown a CEL in over a week. The longest Ive gone since doing this mod!

Abarth Five O
02-05-2015, 08:20 PM
Good luck! I've gone over 1k mi before throwing a cel. At any rate, if you don't mind the cel, it's only a false code according to Ryephile.

Davothegr8
03-07-2015, 09:51 AM
I know no one will believe me but since adding the Madness intake and ditching the Sila I havent thrown a CEL in over a week. The longest Ive gone since doing this mod!

Still no p1cea cel!

Timetrapper
03-19-2015, 10:00 PM
Good luck! I've gone over 1k mi before throwing a cel. At any rate, if you don't mind the cel, it's only a false code according to Ryephile.

what do you mean when you say "throwing a cel?"

krayzielilsmoki
03-19-2015, 10:43 PM
what do you mean when you say "throwing a cel?"

It means getting a check engine light

Abarth Five O
03-19-2015, 11:50 PM
what do you mean when you say "throwing a cel?"

P1CEA is a false code some throw w/ this mod.

guygeo
05-12-2015, 02:05 PM
Is the boost leak fixed now on the 2015?

dart1.4t
05-16-2015, 10:54 AM
Fixed? Its not broken. More of an odd and questionable solution. Doubtful they'll change it. Maybe with a major update to the engine at some point but as long as they are using this model engine I think they'll keep most of those parts the same.

Tweak
05-16-2015, 07:50 PM
Fixed? Its not broken. More of an odd and questionable solution. Doubtful they'll change it. Maybe with a major update to the engine at some point but as long as they are using this model engine I think they'll keep most of those parts the same.

I think it should be worded to suggest it is more of an improvement rather than fix.

kpg2713
06-25-2015, 05:20 PM
Just did the re-route this morning. After driving it about 50 miles I give it a thumbs up. The re-route seems to make the throttle much easier to modulate, particularly while not in sport mode. 1st gear starts as well as throttle modulation through gear shifts is improved. We will see how long it goes before throwing a code, though I'll just clear it when it does. Thanks Ryephile!

Rconn14
07-20-2015, 02:31 PM
Hey All - I'm not sure if this would be the fix for my issue, but my 2012 Abarth keeps throwing the P1CEA code and it is completely stock.

It's spent about 4 weeks total at the dealership and they've done the following:
TSB reflash
Reflashed entire computer
Checked valve to see if installed backwards
Replaced PCM

So far nothing has fixed it. They gave me the car back Friday and the light came back on during my drive home. They're taking the car back today and they say their next option is replacing the turbocharger. I really don't think that will solve the problem. Also, they replaced the turbo once before for the previous owner, but they aren't sure if it is for the same problem.

I apologize if this is off topic! I thought it might be relevant here.

Just want my car running properly and CEL free :(

Anyone have any thoughts on this issue?

aevansgatech
07-20-2015, 03:00 PM
When you say stock, I'm assuming that means no 'evap re-route' per this thread

In that case, 2 things come to mind:
1. the TSB software update should've opened up the P1CEA parameters and made it less likely to throw the code
2. If your car is completely stock, no evap re-route, etc then the dealer / FIAT needs to figure it out. Sucks but hopefully they find the real solution and don't replace the turbo

Rconn14
07-20-2015, 03:45 PM
When you say stock, I'm assuming that means no 'evap re-route' per this thread

In that case, 2 things come to mind:
1. the TSB software update should've opened up the P1CEA parameters and made it less likely to throw the code
2. If your car is completely stock, no evap re-route, etc then the dealer / FIAT needs to figure it out. Sucks but hopefully they find the real solution and don't replace the turbo

Correct, completely stock. Was hoping this re-route could help the cause, or at least some of you very knowledgeable folks in here might have some ideas as to why.

The TSB didn't solve anything, unfortunately.

Abarth Five O
07-20-2015, 08:11 PM
Have dealer replace the whole evap hose/harness system and check all connections.

Antoans4
08-19-2015, 12:37 PM
Any videos of this but with a car with intake?

ridepride
01-29-2016, 02:11 PM
I will give this leak fix a try. Hopefully, I get good results. Thanks for the great info on this thread!

prossi
02-22-2016, 11:24 AM
I think it should be worded to suggest it is more of an improvement rather than fix.

so then has this been "improved" on the 2015?

shagghie
02-22-2016, 07:17 PM
what if you just simply cap that port off the charge pipe completely? Doesn't seem like there is anything critical that boost circuit feeds. (honest question)

Tweak
02-23-2016, 12:05 AM
so then has this been "improved" on the 2015?

I haven't personally looked at the change on the 2015 but I know we have plenty of members that have, I don't think it has changed but I'd rather someone that is certain give you that answer. I have a 2013 for the record.

MDS2
03-09-2016, 05:18 PM
I could post up some pictures of the evap system on my car later today, since I will be installing a boost gauge. we'll see what you guys can figure. My abarth is a 2015 and I've been curious about the boost leak issue of previous years. Whether or not fiat fixed this issue I don't know. In the mean time I have a parts guy I deal with all the time at my local dealer, he may be able to find out if there was any TSB or revision to fix this issue.

MDS2
03-10-2016, 02:14 PM
Alright everyone, I have pictures. hopefully you can see them and interpret what Im going to say here. From what I seen under my hood it looks like Fiat re-routed the lines. first of all there is a "T" style arrangement on the back of the stock air box http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21216&stc=1 pictured here. The line circled in red has its source at the plastic intercooler piping resting just above the transmission and just before the rubber hose entering the throttle body. The line circled in green has its source at the evap sensor/valve thing, (not sure what it's called) http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21217&stc=1 you can see here the lines route near where the output of the stock airbox would normally be. The connector on the left being the boost line and the connector on the right for evap. http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21218&stc=1 This picture shows the evap sensor and its respective line. if you look closely at the very bottom of the picture you can see what looks like part of a wire loom. This is actually the boost line it runs directly under the stock airbox right next to the metal fuel line pictured. http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21219&stc=1 This next picture you can see the boost line circled in red and the arrow shows where it is routed. It has a number of clips holding it in place along the charge pipe leading to the intake. http://www.fiat500usaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21220&stc=1 This last picture was difficult to get ( I didn't have time to remove the battery) but you can see a hose barb sticking directly out of the plastic charge pipe. This pipe is also where the stock boost sensor is located. The hose barb is the source for the boost line. I tested to make sure it actually sees boost while driving with a simple boost gauge. This connection experiences full boost. I will have to open up my old air box and take a picture of the interior, but basically there is only one outlet from the 2 lines mounted on the backside of the airbox. It is a basic "T" arrangement, with the boost line leading straight into the airbox and the evap set at 90 degrees to the boost line. What I think is happening, is under boost the effect of the air being pushed past the outlet of the evap line, will pull vapours from the evap line. Now I could be wrong, I am no expert but this is what I have observed thus far. Hope this helps!

ridepride
03-27-2016, 01:20 PM
My first upgrade :)
I finally did the fix and I could feel the difference. Thank you to Ryephile for the research and work you put in for this. Thanks to Musicsurf for improving the steps. I bought all the parts from the Mc Master site.
The most difficult part was removing the tube with the metal clip behind the engine. I ended up just removing the other end of the tube with the metal clip.

Next upgrade would be Tweak's HID headlights and DRL bulb upgrades.

Golfassassin
03-27-2016, 05:36 PM
If you have the gfb diverter is doing this something that still would have an impact?

Tiny Turbo
03-27-2016, 05:43 PM
If you have the gfb diverter is doing this something that still would have an impact?

I immediately noticed the difference the GFB DV+ made. This however was not really noticeable. I already had a FMIC and GFB DV+ installed before attempting this mod.
I did the EVAP-mod for peace of mind after my last boost leak dilemma.

racer9224
06-11-2018, 07:57 PM
I am sorry to bring back an old thread but I figured I would give it a shot...

I am putting my car back to stock configuration and I seem to have misplaced the vacuum tee that is taken out of the system when you do this mod. Would anyone who is having success with this mod be willing to send me the tee that they took off of their car? I would of course pay shipping and I could also pay a little bit for the trouble.

PM me if you are feeling generous!

1320
06-11-2018, 09:04 PM
I am sorry to bring back an old thread but I figured I would give it a shot...

I am putting my car back to stock configuration and I seem to have misplaced the vacuum tee that is taken out of the system when you do this mod. Would anyone who is having success with this mod be willing to send me the tee that they took off of their car? I would of course pay shipping and I could also pay a little bit for the trouble.

PM me if you are feeling generous!

PM Sent!

500Tbarth
03-18-2019, 12:21 PM
I have a 2016 and was wondering if anyone ever figured out if the boost leak fix could be accomplished on it